Texan1983 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 What flywheel bolts did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeOxXt Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 I removed/ground off the original Torx T50 Plus and installed a 2007 WRX Single Mass Flywheel along with 2007 WRX hex cap flywheel bolts. If you intend to reuse your Dual Mass Setup, the bolts will fit. They're available in a qty of 8 on the Fred Beans site, but if you use their oem parts site and search the part number, you can get them a bit cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChefRacer Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Jacking up the motor and using a cheap harbor freight trans jack works best for me both on and off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 i found that threatening the junk yard was what my motor needed to hear to mate up to the tranny Engine leveler makes the job a TON easier, i also crawled under, grabbed the exhaust manifolder and thrashed around like a drunken beached whale... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeOxXt Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Have everything reassembled. Tried to start up but my battery is dead from sitting, so I have my jumper box charging. I've never "reinstalled" a slave cylinder. I foolishly pressed the clutch down with it off the transmission and extended the arm. The pedal stuck to the floor, pulled the pedal up last night to get it installed, but I'm still not convinced it's lined up correctly. The pedal isn't returning. It was fine prior to removal of the transmission. Any hints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I made a similar dumb mistake. IIRC, the pedal kinda "toggled" over and I had to lift it with my foot to get it back up. I squeezed the slave back together by hand to push the fluid back up into the master. I installed the TOB/arm and then wired the slave/arm tight in the retracted position. Not sure if that helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeOxXt Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 I have no movement of the fork. I have the boot off. It may not be seated correctly. After all this. It won't budge at all. I'm at a total loss if I have to pull everything. The $60 worth of Extra S hurts almost as much as the time. Any suggestions? And, yes, I thought I had it in correctly. Even looked twice after BarManBeans suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 7, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 7, 2013 If the clutch pedal isn't coming back up when you depress it, it could very well be a bleed issue. I would start by bleeding both the slave AND the master, even if you've done so already--alternate between the two, a couple bleeds on the slave, a couple on the master, back and forth until no bubbles. *IF* you decide it's the clutch for (not like to have any impact on the clutch pedal I wouldn't think), you *might* be able to fix it through the access boot. If that doesn't work, no need to lose all the extra S since you can back the transmission off enough without pulling the axles and still have plenty of clearance to work in there. I never undid any of my axles or drained fluid for my clutch job--just slid the transmission back. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeOxXt Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Should the fork be moveable by hand? I know this may be a stupid question since we're talking hydraulic force here, but it's not moving...anywhere. Front, back or side to side. I'm alone, so I can't press the pedal and watch at the same time. I suppose it is working, actually, since all other gears will slide in without clutch depression (with the car off) except for Reverse and it goes in to reverse with the clutch pedal down. What is the reasoning for having to bleed even though there has been no air introduced into the system? Not opposing your input, genuinely curious. I've been at it since 9:30 this morning and haven't eaten or taken a break. I suppose I should probably do that and come back fresh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 7, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 7, 2013 I'm not an expert in the workings of the hydraulics. I had my clutch line in between the slave / master undone during my job, so I know that I introduced air into the system. If you clutch pedal is sticking to the floor though, mine did the same thing following my clutch replacing / unhooking that line. Finally getting the system bled properly fixed the issue (I had a small leak that was preventing a proper bleed for a bit). I literally had a string tied to the pedal in order to bleed the system because every time I would press it it would get stuck to the floor and I'd pull it up with the string "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeOxXt Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Just wanted to post some follow up: I am now able to separate the transmission from the block in around 2 hours. I'm not sure that's something to be proud of because it took a lot of "practice". The fork should absolutely have free play and wiggle. I'm not sure if I initially installed it wrong or if it fell from the transmission being handled so roughly while trying to reinstall, but it had fallen down and was binding everything that works with it. Reinstallation of the tranny only took two tries this time, now that I know to angle the block a bit. Also, if only doing a clutch job, I'd advise leaving the CVs in, as they definitely assist in the reinstallation and there's plenty of room to get it all done that way. Pretty sure my fluid is currently overfilled. Once I get it on the ground and let it settle, I will sort this. Being paranoid here. Thanks again for all the help and input guys. Truly a great community here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amason Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Check out this type of extractor? Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece - Amazon.com That's what I used on one of my cam bolts... Another vote for the bolt extractor kit! Got the last two bolts out way easier than I expected. Of course they were right next to each other, so couldn't even try grabbing them with Vise-Grips, but I'm sure that wouldn't have been fruitful anyway. Wish I'd known about the WRX bolts while putting it back together last time (and/or that I hadn't been working on a Sunday in a spot that had to be vacated by Monday, so couldn't replace the ones that apparently should've been). Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLeg Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 I've got a DMFW and stupid torx plus bolts on my 05 GT. The bolts are tight as F!! Even with the proper torx plus bit I seem to be stripping the bolts. I have a LWFW and clutch kit from Exedy coming to put back on next weekend but need to get these damn torx bolts off!! For those of you who've used this Irwin Bolt extractor did the sockets fit inside the slots on the DMFW? Or does anyone know how to separate the front plate of the FW from the back to get better access to the bolts? Maybe I'd be better off just drilling them since I plan to buy a new set but then I'll have to remove the trans completely which I'd like to avoid... Any suggestions would be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 just wondering, did you try tightinging the bolts a bit and then try removing? sometimes it helps. if you are not going to reuse the fly wheel, you could cut the cage around the bolts. good luck i hope you get that sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLeg Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Thanks for the response. The issue I'm having is the front plate spins enough that the cage parts press against the torx bit when i put a lot of pressure on it. Then my bit gets pushed slightly out of the bolt and strips it.. I'm thinking I'll have to pick up a dremel on the way home from work tomorrow and cut the flywheel apart. If i cut that cage up the front plate should pop right off giving access to cut the bolts out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 im not sure if it will pop off but it should give you room to get your bit in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLeg Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 After 3 evenings after work of cutting and grinding and a handy set of bolt extractor sockets I finally got the SOB off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.