FS advise?

[Dusty B]

Yes, I realized I managed to make a typo even after proofreading my thread. Could a MOD be so kind as to change the thread title to "advice" for me?

First off, I want to say it pains me for even considering to sell my LGT. But at this point, it’s become too much of a project for me to take on (time mostly). Need some honest feedback (and hopefully minimal flaming), on a fair price I might consider asking for the car.

 

Background: I’ve owned the car for almost 5 years now, and went through the normal route of bolt on modifications. Long story short; I had a turbo thrust bearing go as well as a seal, which introduced metal into the lubrication system, and evacuated the oil from it. You do the math. By the time you see the oil light flicker in these cars it’s too late. The following night a friend and I removed the engine, and I started ordering parts for it.

 

That was two years ago this coming January. Besides moving to a new home, which no longer has a garage, and being married now with young children, I cannot stand to see the car sit unused any longer. I literally have EVERYTHING required to put the car back together. The only thing I do not have: time.

 

So I guess to start off, she is a SWP LGT wagon 5mt limited w/black leather. When the motor failure occurred she had just hit 101k (I purchased at 23k). The body is in very good shape, minus the passenger rear door; which has a large dent. If any of you are from New England, you might remember my car as the one with purple STI BBS wheels and the giant band aid decal from WBM. I wasn’t/am not concerned with having a show car. The dent and decal gave personality to the car to me and had nothing to do with the money to fix it. The window operates just fine, and there is no air or water leak from the door seal.

 

The interior is virtually spotless. Heated seats work. Has auto-dimming rear view mirror. The only mark is the one that was on the car when I purchased. There is a small, inch long tear in the drivers door card. It looks like someone at one point shut the door and caught the seat belt buckle in just the right way to damage it.

 

I will say this car is as close to done as pretty much installing the engine, and getting a base tune to break everything in. The only things that need finishing are the down pipe, and the exhaust. And I have all the hardware for that as well! And also a new oil feed line for the turbo.

 

I will try to list all the modifications, however, I am sure I will be forgetting some.

 

I work on a gov secured connection, so I cannot host photos while here. I will try to do so later to help aid in my question.

 

Used parts I have , that have never been on my car:

 

· Random APS hardpipes from STI/WRX

· APS Coolant overflow (the tall one that mounts to radiator)

· Welded center differential I made (planned on doing RWD conversion)

· Spare timing covers (front and back)

· Box of random good, used parts

 

List of modifications which have 20k or more on them:

 

· Front STI Brembo take-offs from 05 STI

· BC BR Coilovers

· Fiberglass front lip.

· 6K Apex Cone HID low beams (both ballasts have been changed once)

· Headlights cleared and painted black.

· Fast WRX eyelids. Painted SWP.

· 3” exhaust, single exit. Could reinstall if you fab dp to meet with it. However, I purchased the exhaust builders kit to make an entire new exhaust.

 

List of modifications which have less than 15k on them:

 

· Rotated T3/T4 flanged up-pipe with 38mm v-band EWG port (comes with 44mm adapter)

· TIAL 44mm EWG with screamer pipe and fire rings.

· WBR FMIC

· Walbro 255 in modified stock housing.

· Witchhunter 850cc modified stock injectors (yellow)

· Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS

· Group N tranny mount.

· Torque Solutions pitch stop

· KARTBOY sts

· Whiteline rear differential bushing inserts

· DXD full face pressure plate

· ACT LW flywheel (has been resurfaced in preparation for re-instal)

 

NEW, and unused parts:

 

· ENGINE:

o New from subaru EJ257 shortblock.

o Rebuilt D25 heads (STI). Installed with OEM headgaskets and bolts.

o New OEM water pump

o New OEM oil pump (unshimmed)

o New T-stat.

o Gates racing timing set.

o New intake Gaskets (paper gaskets and o-rings)

o PERRIN LW crank pulley

o CUSCO solid engine mounts

o Grimmspeed crossover pipe with stock elbows. New stainless hardware.

o Grimmspeed 3-layer gaskets

o Precision 5858cae (t3/t4) journal bearing turbo with every possible upgrade option; ported exhaust and compressor housings, 4” inlet w/anti surge cover, ect.

o New silicone couplers/reducers

o Box full of ALL stainless (304) steel hardware; t3 + t4 flanges, reducers, 02 bungs, exhaust flanges, you name it.

o Complete ultimate stainless (304) exhaust builders kit. Comes with pre mandrel bent tubes to fabricate a custom exhaust.

o Random vacuum hoses that needed replacement (pcv and pressure tube)

 

· Drivetrain:

o Tranquil sleeve kit (my trans snout is fine, but I did not want to install without the kit and regret later)

 

 

Again, I’m sure I’m missing a whole lot. I’m sure some of you guys that have spent 2 years on a Subaru know how much stuff you can acquire and lose track of the list. The engine is on a stand at a friend’s shop, which most all of the parts. I will take a trip there one day and look through to see what I missed.

 

 

All the above being noted: what would you think a fair asking price for the car is??? And please, no one PM asking for a part out!

[rob-2]

As is, honestly not much.

 

Fixed and running, probably about 8-11k depending in buyer.

[BarManBean]

From the looks of your pile o' stuff, you'll get more out of a part out now and selling a non-running LGT than you will from fixing it and selling the car.

[lockmedic]

Hate to say it but you would probably do better parting it out. Off the cuff I'd say you'd be lucky to get $5-6k if you sold it as a "some assembly required" car and that's pretty generous.

[Dusty B]

As is, honestly not much.

 

Fixed and running, probably about 8-11k depending in buyer.

 

Yeah, I had hoped a bit more all together and running. But it is what it is.

 

From the looks of your pile o' stuff, you'll get more out of a part out now and selling a non-running LGT than you will from fixing it and selling the car.

 

Hate to say it but you would probably do better parting it out. Off the cuff I'd say you'd be lucky to get $5-6k if you sold it as a "some assembly required" car and that's pretty generous.

 

Thanks for the input fellas!

 

I know parting will yield more money. But that has the same problem as putting it together again; time aspect. I know for the assembled long block alone 3500 is reasonable.

 

So much time, money, blood-sweat-tears has gone into this car. But then again, we all know the worst investment is putting money into modifying a vehicle.

[jp233]

dang I would love to buy that pile and put it together. I have your same issue - work and kids and no time to spend on things.

 

 

I need to get the pile out of my garage first though, and honestly I'd want forged pistons in something with these mods after seeing how a piston can come apart and destroy everything.

[Dusty B]

dang I would love to buy that pile and put it together. I have your same issue - work and kids and no time to spend on things.

 

I need to get the pile out of my garage first though, and honestly I'd want forged pistons in something with these mods after seeing how a piston can come apart and destroy everything.

 

 

I agree. If you search my post history, I have a thread up from not too long ago regarding drop-in pistons. I was feeling the same way; that I didn't want to set myself up for disaster. Upon taking the block apart for fun, we did find the good ole #4 ringland failure.

[Dusty B]

Well, after much deliberation, I think there will be a part-out f/s thread appearing soon. I have decided to keep the car, but part ways with subaru drivetrain. She has been sitting for 2 years, so what's 2 more to achieve what I really want right?