Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

05 LGT Starting issue after using OBD to clear codes.


Recommended Posts

Ok, this has happened twice now and I am starting to get a little concerned. Here is what is going on:

 

1. I have had the P0301 code since purchasing the car 2 months ago. It currently has 132000k and is stock. It comes and goes and I have cleared the code a few times.

 

2. As part of trying to address the code, I recently changed the plugs (and changed the diff and trans fluid at the same time). I discovered that the NGK LFR6AIX-11 plugs were installed. I replaced those with NGK SILFR6A. While doing this I also found that the rear passenger side coil pack harness had a broken clip.

 

3. The first incident was after clearing the P0301 and P2096 codes (this was the first time I had seen the P2096). I cleared the codes at a rest area on the interstate. No crazy driving, just highway cruising. After the codes were reset, the car would not turn over. It started after the third try, but the idle dropped and the car stalled. I started it again, kept the revs a little higher and began to drive. The car drove just fine, though the CEL did come back on.

 

4. The car was fine for a few days until I decided to clear the codes again (only P0301). I did so and had the same starting issue. I have not cleared the codes since and have had no trouble with starting.

 

I used the OBD with no issues prior to the last work day (Trans, diff, and plugs). I have had the battery and starter checked and both are ok. I did have a little trouble putting the pass rear coil pack clip/harness back on and wonder of that is the issue or part of it.

 

I have since used MAF cleaner on the MAF and visually checked all hoses and lines. The only other thing I have done to the car is to replace the banjo bolt/filter.

 

The car also has what I would describe as a rough idle, almost a shudder at times. This and the P0301 prompted the plug change.

 

So, has anyone had any experience with this and is the clip/harness a part that I can source and replace?

 

I have considered using Seafoam, but haven't yet.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The starting issue is a result of the ECU rebooting. Happens whenever you reset the ECU or lose battery power. Next time turn your ignition to the ON position, but do not crank for about 5 seconds (wait until the gauges are done sweeping and count to 3.) THEN start. The low idle/stalling is a result of the reset, since you wiped out the idle learning. The car needs to relearn the correct idle.

 

Stop clearing your codes all the time and go fix your problem. The code pops up for a reason.

 

Swap coil packs from one cylinder to another, reset, and see if the code changes to a misfire on a different cylinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realize they come up for a reason. I started with the plugs and will work through a list of things I've found on the forum that are related to the P0301 and rough idle. Thanks for the input about the reset, I didn't realize that was an issue or common occurrence. My old RS never did anything like that. So then, would the change in plugs (going from the stage colder to stock) affect the idle?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, colder plugs will not effect idle.

 

You have a miss fire on #1. swap coils with #3 and see if the miss fire code follows it.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cold plugs can absolutely effect idle. If they get fouled (which they do far easier than standard heat range plugs). Must get colder plugs hot often enough to keep them clean. No street driven Subie needs cold plugs. We even use standard heat range in 500whp+ Subies and our track cars. Cold plugs are generally a stop gap for a lazy tuner.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Set gap to 0.028". If it still happens, swap coils, then injectors (if you dont have the tools to test). If that does nothing, could be an exhaust valve starting to pound itself flat and it is the beginning of needing to pull the motor (worst case scenario).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Leak down test will show if valves are leaking by. Many times in a Subie cyl #2 or #4 will begin to pound the exhaust valves flat. Misfire at idle is the first sign of this. It eventually leads to a cracked/split/broken valve. I eluded to this earlier, but hope it is the worst case scenario.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering that the valves get hotter than the head they expand more when warm, so it's not entirely conclusive with a leakdown test. It depends on how far it has gone. Best is to check the clearance to see that it's within specs.
453747.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ever checked valve clearance in car on a 4th gen LGT??? Even if you wanted to waste that much time and frustration, then found a loose or tight valve, you wont want to swap buckets in car. Taking that much of the head apart in car is a waste of time.

 

Leak down test and watch cylinder roughness on all four cylinders while the car is running. If your really good with a bore scope you can see the bad valve sometimes. Simple enough to find a leaking valve.

 

But if you do find one, motor is coming out and you might as well freshen up the heads (I would recommend new valve guides too), hone and install new rings and bearings at a minimum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I figure the valve may indeed be the worst case scenario, but I'mm going to do an injector rebuild next and go from there. So fingers crossed. If it does require pulling the engine, I might as well go ahead and button everything else up. Thanks for all of the help guys!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ever checked valve clearance in car on a 4th gen LGT??? Even if you wanted to waste that much time and frustration, then found a loose or tight valve, you wont want to swap buckets in car. Taking that much of the head apart in car is a waste of time.

 

Leak down test and watch cylinder roughness on all four cylinders while the car is running. If your really good with a bore scope you can see the bad valve sometimes. Simple enough to find a leaking valve.

 

But if you do find one, motor is coming out and you might as well freshen up the heads (I would recommend new valve guides too), hone and install new rings and bearings at a minimum.

I have done the engine on a STi... So I can imagine...

453747.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use