PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Peeps on the Outback forum suggested posting here.... Was a VW guy, then bought my first Subi December last year. Bought a 2005 Outback XT MT. 98k miles. It came with mods - and a warranty. Up pipe, down pipe, mid pipe and muffler, intake and conservative stage 2 tune. Problems to date. - First prob, my alternator fried using a pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter. (Chose to also do - timing belt, tensionser, alternator, waterpump, some hoses...etc) -Then while coming down a mountain pass the engine overheating. No CEL. Apparent Cracked cylinder head. #note car had been driving 100% up until the overheat. -Warranty worked!! Put a new top end in - cyclinder heads etc. (Again while that was being done, I did upgraded clutch and flywheel). Since the warranty work the car became almost none drive-able; It started lurching under any acceleration. I did a ground kit, and reflashed the ECU with my AP. Made a noticeable difference, but the jolting has turned into power loss at top end. 1week ago - While driving on the high way in traffic. I went to exit onto another highway, while accelerating the car felt like it would loose and regain power (revs didn't jump), then started lurching and misfiring. CEL came on and cruise was flashing. I pulled over turned the car off and back on..CEL gone, car would act normal until 3000rpm - then right back to cycling of misfire/lurch - no CEL. Car sat in my driveway until today. I had a Deatschwerks Fuel Pump, sitting because of the power loss at top end (With the other symptoms and research, I thought I might be a fuel pump issue). TODAY! Installed the fuel pump. Car ran good until warm (I was babying it). Then the power loss came back and then the lurching /missfire above 3000rpm started...car shut off. No CEL. If I primed the key a few x10 times then start, the car would run. If I just try to start with one key turn, it revs then shuts off. Managed to limp my car to my office. No CEL. But the security light was illuminated and cruise was flashing. Car has 1800miles on it since the rebuild. Initially when the problems started I was like "cool what ever, way way cheaper than a VW to fix" under a year with the and almost 5k out of pocket on maintenance.....not excited to own the car. Any input? I'm in a bad spot. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 4, 2013 Moderators Share Posted October 4, 2013 You need to get the engine code(s) pulled and post them up. Should give a better idea of what might be going on. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Take it to a pro to troubleshoot, may have saved you a lot of that $ if you had done that originally. They are temperamental cars especially when you are throwing new parts on, and you don't have a good baseline for what's already been done. Tuning is key for these cars.. Also fill in your profile so we know where you are too. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Will fill it in. I've taken the car to the garage that has done all the work since I've owned it. Since the rebuild, I tooking it back to them about the lurching, they test drove, said they couldn't feel anything and not there problem.....I wasnt trying to say it was, just figure out what is going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Well, went to take the car a block to O'reilys to get the codes pulled...but nothing, not even crank over. Er HC on the Odo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Are the green test mode connectors plugged in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 No. Unplugged. Only plugged when needed for the AP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Your accessport can read the cel codes. http://bedug.com/pics/Subaru/obdcodes_Subaru.txt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Just tried to do that, it doesn't power up, still Er Hc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 How are your battery and terminal connections. It does not take much for them to get fouled and make the car electrical system go funky. Also I reread your first post. Make sure the fuel pump is fully sealed and seated in the fuel canister and that all your connections are good. Low fuel pressure is no good for these motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Terminals and connections are good (IMO). I pulled cleaned, upgraded cables and added more grounds when the car first started lurching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Does it have a catalytic converter? It sounds like it could be an exhaust restriction. EDIT: BEFORE the ErHC code it sounds like it could be CC pieces floating around in the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 To answer your question - When you change cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Cheers Rob. You are spot on..but truth be told I have turbo wagon love. Just wish she'd run at her full potential...or just smoothly. Will post in a Rocky Mountain area forums..though, please shout out if you know any tuning shops of peeps in the area, that you would stand by recommending. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Cryo Tuning... EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Thanking you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Have you tried SubaPros in Arvada? They're honest guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Just encase someone else is searching and trying to figure out similar issues in their OBXT. Where my car stands a week later. $60*Finally got the car towed to the garage that done all the work to date. Their first reaction before they got the car was 'Fuel Pump'. Cool, already changed that *$160. So after resetting the ECU, and driving the car...They said they didn't fell anything untoward. Picked up the car this AM. The garage told me all they found was the ground to my ECU was loose... ------------------------------ This leaves me question.. Has the ground been loose since the rebuild engine, and this has been the foundation of all the issues? Could it be that because it was loose the AccessPort re-flash didn't take properly, bad tune result? Or, Like every other time I've unplugged the battery for more than 10mins. The ECU resets and the car drives nice for a few days then gets exponentially worse. I updated everything on the AP and re-flashed the car this AM. Car is driving very nicely right now.......Time to wait and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Here is a thread about grounds and possible issues. As I state in post #26: "One thing to remember is that you could put 1563535196591565365 grounds on your car and it would NEVER hurt anything. But if you have NO ground, EVERYTHING can mess up. Make your own out of wire like Max shows above. It looks like he used 2-14 ga. wires if I'm correct Max? That's easily more ground than the original flat straps. I generally use a piece of 12 ga. Monster cable with the clear sheath because you can see through it and see if it's corroding. I also put heat shrink tube over the end where the crimp terminal goes on just to seal it up even more." Read the thread. You'll see some solutions-http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ground-straps-bottom-engine-206442.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHLO Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Thank you!.. I agree and will read this evening...or as soon as my boss leaves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted4life Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Have you tried SubaPros in Arvada? They're honest guys. I would have to say that is far from the truth. I wont even bother saying why. I could not honestly recommend Subapros. I recommend A Mobile Mechanic if you want honest work performed. Buddy at A Mobile Mechanic works only on Subarus and he even encourages you bring your own parts/fluids and even sources used parts to install to meet your budget. Now that is honesty!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Brings up two year old thread to bash a shop with first post? Then plugs shade tree mobile mechanic. http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/2a/2a50a6de84db99fb075cacf498ea576791fc3bf5547528dbd444ea3dfe48abc7.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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