Blue Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 What are the options for rotors (front and rear). I'd prefer not to pay the dealership's prices for OEM rotors. I drive with some "spirit" but don't need a Big Brake Kit. I'm not interested in changing calipers at this point. Thanks! Blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Centrics are very good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 You'll want to contact "mike" at http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/StoreFront He's someone who you can trust and will not over sell you on things you don't need. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I've been happy with someone I got to know from buying so many from him.. drtsport here in boston. He takes Centric rotors and machines them with drills and/or slots. So they are good rotors.. and to me I like the badass look to them. You could always just get the solid blanks too... good pricing in my opinion and have never had an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Honestly, blank rotors and autozone's most expensive ceramic pads. They come with a life-time replacements. The pads and rotors. It's insane. I warp rotors regularly in this car, no matter the brand (properly bed). If you want to upgrade pad compound just make sure you avoid Hawk products. Endless makes some great pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I've been quite lucky with the cross drilled/ceramic combo and never been able to warp them. I think it's the cuts that keep the rotor clean vs blanks. My stock ones started to warble, and I heated them up like crazy (see brake deposits) it solved the issue. Although I have had 2-3 years on this setup with nothing. Hell I even put it on the minivan, which tended to get brake deposit a lot, which was very annoying.. 1.5 years and counting.. love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I've been quite lucky with the cross drilled/ceramic combo and never been able to warp them. I think it's the cuts that keep the rotor clean vs blanks. My stock ones started to warble, and I heated them up like crazy (see brake deposits) it solved the issue. Although I have had 2-3 years on this setup with nothing. Hell I even put it on the minivan, which tended to get brake deposit a lot, which was very annoying.. 1.5 years and counting.. love it. Cross drilling is old tech not required. You originally cross drilled rotors to let gas escape. Modern compounds rarely gas anymore so they don't give you that mushy feeling. It's a general misunderstanding that drilling was for heat related improvements. Better veining designs and slotted rotors help with heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I definitely agree with your Rob-2... it's just old school mentality on my part when I used to actually race cars.. even all my wilwood big brake upgrades etc would at best only slot them since it was "better". I actually just recently picked up some parts from drt, and he told me he balanced the centric rotors too by machining them (where some blanks actually will have weights on them like tires). He also said he harmonically matches them, ie the veins go in opposite directions. Which he said only a few companies like mercedes do them if you look it up. Most people had the impression in the past to also put the direction of slots/drilling towards wheel rotation. All this was neat news to me. But.. again, my opinion is that the rotors bite more, and I never have a brake deposit (commonly mistaken as warping) problem with my rotors. So.. I like it. I drive mostly highway, then get stuck in traffic a lot, so I don't beat the car down.. in fact, I went literally 35K on the oem brake pads before even swapping pads, then recently decided at 65k ish to replace all the rotors and pads with the drt hardware. I'm just rolling into 85k and the pads still have plenty of meat, so I would say the harder pads also stand the braking with the slots as well as the oem did on flat blank rotors.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I have always thought the LGT brakes suck.. I haven't replaced my lines with SS lines since I haven't been crazy about them in the past with other cars, but I have bled them many times, put new oem lines on, new pads and rotors, as well as the MC brace, and it has gotten better for sure, but not even close to the brembo's on my Evo.. heck, even our CRV has better braking than the lgt does! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I definitely agree with your Rob-2... it's just old school mentality on my part when I used to actually race cars.. even all my wilwood big brake upgrades etc would at best only slot them since it was "better". I actually just recently picked up some parts from drt, and he told me he balanced the centric rotors too by machining them (where some blanks actually will have weights on them like tires). He also said he harmonically matches them, ie the veins go in opposite directions. Which he said only a few companies like mercedes do them if you look it up. Most people had the impression in the past to also put the direction of slots/drilling towards wheel rotation. All this was neat news to me. But.. again, my opinion is that the rotors bite more, and I never have a brake deposit (commonly mistaken as warping) problem with my rotors. So.. I like it. I drive mostly highway, then get stuck in traffic a lot, so I don't beat the car down.. in fact, I went literally 35K on the oem brake pads before even swapping pads, then recently decided at 65k ish to replace all the rotors and pads with the drt hardware. I'm just rolling into 85k and the pads still have plenty of meat, so I would say the harder pads also stand the braking with the slots as well as the oem did on flat blank rotors.. We're on the same page then. I am not 100% certain what I'm doing with this setup that is ruining rotors so quickly. After a few mountain runs I've warped rotors. I bed properly, high heat, no actual stopped pad on rotor contact and it still happens. They'll be smooth and great. Go run in the mountains, switch backs and the like and poof there is that warp again. I take out my S2000, doing the same roads, be it much faster, and no problems. I've come to the conclusion the rotors are too small for the weight of the sedan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I would definitely have to agree, the rotor size could be bigger, The size of the legacy was actually smaller than the Odyssey (although that *is* a bigger vehicle) and a new maxima (although that also is arguably a little bigger). The brake MC could be larger (and I'm watching that thread of the Sti mc swap, but I don't have the time or effort to do that). I was actually thinking at some point to see if anyone had brackets that would space the calipers out XXX amount so that all you had to do was get a compatible larger rotor.. ie put at 16" rotor instead of a 14" rotor. Much similar to one of my wilwood upgrades in the past. It seems so simple.. and as long as you run larger/wider offset wheels you could just do this! The brackets themselves would cost almost nothing to machine, if one put a kit together with new rotors, pads, and brackets you certainly could make some money on a semi "big brake" upgrade.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12sechatch Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I warp rotors regularly in this car, no matter the brand (properly bed). No you don't. Warping rotors is a myth for the most part. You get pad deposits on rotors regularly, that would be a true statement. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths There are numerous ways to fix pulsating rotors, as they are essentially never warped. Yes, turning them will remove material; but more often than not, if you just re-bed your pads, that will be enough heat and friction to remove the deposits and make your "warped" rotors "un-warped". Either that, or put a race pad (read: high operating temp) and use those to literally scrape the left over deposits off of the rotor...then reinstall your normal pads. OP: Get the cheapest blank rotors you can find (spend a couple extra bucks to get painted hats if you want...purely cosmetic) and a good pad. Stoptech Street pads are decent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 No you don't. Warping rotors is a myth for the most part. You get pad deposits on rotors regularly, that would be a true statement. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths There are numerous ways to fix pulsating rotors, as they are essentially never warped. Yes, turning them will remove material; but more often than not, if you just re-bed your pads, that will be enough heat and friction to remove the deposits and make your "warped" rotors "un-warped". Either that, or put a race pad (read: high operating temp) and use those to literally scrape the left over deposits off of the rotor...then reinstall your normal pads. OP: Get the cheapest blank rotors you can find (spend a couple extra bucks to get painted hats if you want...purely cosmetic) and a good pad. Stoptech Street pads are decent. I can try re:bedding them but that hasn't resolved it in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 No you don't. Warping rotors is a myth for the most part. You get pad deposits on rotors regularly, that would be a true statement. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths There are numerous ways to fix pulsating rotors, as they are essentially never warped. Yes, turning them will remove material; but more often than not, if you just re-bed your pads, that will be enough heat and friction to remove the deposits and make your "warped" rotors "un-warped". Either that, or put a race pad (read: high operating temp) and use those to literally scrape the left over deposits off of the rotor...then reinstall your normal pads. OP: Get the cheapest blank rotors you can find (spend a couple extra bucks to get painted hats if you want...purely cosmetic) and a good pad. Stoptech Street pads are decent. That StopTech article has been a source of disinformation for... decades. Brake rotors DO warp. If I could find it, I'd scan and post the run-out reading from my last set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 That StopTech article has been a source of disinformation for... decades. Brake rotors DO warp. If I could find it, I'd scan and post the run-out reading from my last set. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Since going to Hawk pads, the brakes have been great. On more shimmy in the steering wheel under braking. My Spec B has Hawk HP's on the front, they dust up quickly. My Wagon has Hawk Ceramic's they stay much cleaner. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I've been happy with someone I got to know from buying so many from him.. drtsport here in boston. He takes Centric rotors and machines them with drills and/or slots. So they are good rotors.. and to me I like the badass look to them. You could always just get the solid blanks too... good pricing in my opinion and have never had an issue. Did you go with the cryo-treated rotors from Design Rotor Technology? Curious if anyone has experience with them, I was checking out their website earlier. (I assume drt = design rotor technology right?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 My hawks have been good. They have 30k miles With a season of autox and they still have a lot of material left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 My Centric premium have been great for my DD 16k miles on them, I also have Hawk's recommended/sold by Mike@AZP (trusted seller/installer) link to the Centric at a great price. You could try the cryo treated ones for a bit more too. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1278864&cc=1430733 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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