lgtvf52 Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Thanks man everything else will be on today for the timing and what not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looking good, your going to leave the banjo filters out, right ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 That im not sure about I was thinking about leaving them in for the break in miles then taking them out but you think i should take the filters out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I have both removed and glad I did, I have piece of mind knowing nothing is going to stop the turbo from getting oil. Use a good oil and filter, do a few oil samples and go from there. I'm using Amsoil European 5w40 year round on 7000 OCI. My car is driven long distances and see's redline every few day's if not more. IMO with a good oil filter, you have no need for banjo filters. Any name brand filter should be fine. Don't forget if your putting the turbo on, its easier to bolt the turbo on. Also a new oil return hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 That im not sure about I was thinking about leaving them in for the break in miles then taking them out but you think i should take the filters out? While it won't hurt, what will they catch that your oil filter didnt? I still have mine, 107K later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Ok I think im gonna take out all the filters, im going to be running valvoline vr1 10w30 for my break in with a puralator pure one fliter. Really 7000 OCI? Im sticking to 2500-3000 OCI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Yesterday got the timing set... finally, first time is always a pain I'm sure. then the intake manifold went on. wanted to get the exhaust manifold on but unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the two gaskets... Today I'm welding the egt bung closed on the new invidia up pipe. also a little side question... the new up pipe has some residue (looks like grease) inside of the pipe, should this be cleaned out before I install it? sounds stupid but id rather be safe than sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 To be safe I would use some alcohol to remove it before it gets on the spinning blades of the turbo. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 To be safe I would use some alcohol to remove it before it gets on the spinning blades of the turbo. That's what I was thinking just clean it out so nothing were to happen, I think its just grease to make sure the inside of the pipe doesn't rust or anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Just as a reminder I wipe the surface of the pressure plate and FW with Acetone to remove any possible contaminant's. Also clean the matting surface of the block to tranny and any ground points. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Looking good. Kinda regret that I cheaped out in my rebuild and didn't go with ARP headstuds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Thanks! Yeah I was kind of leary if I wanted to spend $200 on head studs but if it gives me even a little more protection against blowing head gaskets and being able to hold more power, totally worth it imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 IMO ARP head studs are a must for these engines. Its the smart thing to do. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Yeah and gives you a little piece of mind that you have quality parts holding the motor together. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starionesir Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 I've used arp head studs on many dsm's and they are great insurance on a boosted engine. Seen many dsm's with stretched headbolts. I've used arp hardware in a couple engine builds and have never had anything but great results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtvf52 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 hey guys totally forgot to update this thread, so the motor is in the car now started up the other day... for a few seconds. didn't have the radiator in so didn't want to heat it up yet. put everything in and connected and now she cranks but will not fire. I am left with it being an electrical issue, since I have air, fuel and spark so I believe the issue is one with the grounding. so tomorrow I will tackle that and see if that does the trick. before I got it to start I went to crank the motor over the first time and my buddy saw the crank pulley wobbling so we pulled it apart and sure enough the keyway snapped (I have never seen this happen before) and yes the pulley was on correctly. so long story short bought a new keyway and then broke a tooth (and a little more) off the crank spocket. got a new one installed everything with a nice new grimmspeed lightwheight pulley. and now we are at a stand still until tomorrow! hopefully the grounds are my issue. here are some pics I never posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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