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Should I buy this Outback?


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It's a 97 Outback, 2.5 4EAT, cruise control, factory CD, secuirty, etc.

 

A few dings and such (clearly been in a small accident), but nothing major body-wise

 

There is a high-pitched whine when accelerating hard. Could this be air passing through a hole in the hood scoop?

 

RF axle boot is torn bad. Didn't check the others. Original Suabru axles in front.

 

Something is leaking (couldn't get very far underneath), dripping onto the center of the exhaust and smoking. I suspect diff. or rear plate? It's dead in the center of the car.

 

I wasn't able to find the dipstick for the front diff, it isn't where mine is on the 96 or on the opposite side.

 

Motor was replaced with a used one that has about 70k miles on it due to HG failure. However the coolant appears to have a little bit of gunk in it. The reservoir was very full when I checked it, but the car was warmed up at that point so I don't know how full it was cold.

 

This is through a dealership my friend works at. They really want to get rid of the car, they paid about $3k for it. But I'm not sure I should get into it for more than $1k considering all the work it needs.

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I think I'm going to pass on it, the sticker is $6k and they won't come down from $3k. Didn't look for the actual head gaskets themselves, but I suspect they're original to that motor. If I was going to spend that kind of money on a car that needed work I would buy this: http://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/4046255858.html
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My experience has been this: Unless you can pick up the car for a really good price and you have the skills to fix it yourself (or know someone who can and will give you a really good deal to do the work) I'd pass. For the money it costs to buy a fixer upper and fix it up one could probably take that money and buy a vehicle which doesn't require fixing up and is probably in better shape.

 

A few years ago I was looking to buy a BMW X5. The one I was looking at had the check engine light illuminated and the pre-purchase inspection revealed a number of things which required attention. The dealer made some concessions and I decided it was worth it to me to address those things which the dealer did not. In the end the deal was done and I bought the vehicle. It had 108K miles on it and the repair work added up to several thousand dollars. Given the price I paid along with the repair work I could have purchased one with fewer miles and/or more options that didn't need repair (as an FYI I was looking at this particular one because it was a difficult to fine color combination that I really wanted).

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If you want a good deal on a car don't buy from a dealer. If you can try and find a cheap L wagon. If you're handy with tools you can usually get a good deal with a car that needs brake work or something else simple. The 2nd gen L's are great cars and the 2.2 motor is a great reliable motor and very easy to work on. 6 months ago i picked up a 95 L wagon with 127,000 miles for $600 that needed rear brake lines, new rotors all around and pads. I also had to replace a couple sensors and did a tune up and some bodywork. By the time i was done i had a great driving car that ran beutifully for $1200. I love that car, but I sold it to a friend that needed it for a commuter car and I needed the money. Sold it for $2400. Probably could of gotten $2800 for the car, but I wanted to give my friend a good discount and I like seeing that my car is in good hands.
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^Yeah hindsight is 20/20, but Subaru cost nowhere near what it takes to fix a BMW, the technology is so much different and the cost of the parts is ridiculous, mostly because if you can afford one of those you can afford to maintain it. Either way your right its hard to knowingly buy any car that has problems because they can compound into enormous issues you may end up on top or taking a loss. Always a roll of the dice to buy a used car even if things seem great. Just got to know what to look for then its a judgement call.
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^Yeah hindsight is 20/20, but Subaru cost nowhere near what it takes to fix a BMW, the technology is so much different and the cost of the parts is ridiculous, mostly because if you can afford one of those you can afford to maintain it. Either way your right its hard to knowingly buy any car that has problems because they can compound into enormous issues you may end up on top or taking a loss. Always a roll of the dice to buy a used car even if things seem great. Just got to know what to look for then its a judgement call.

 

The BMW was just an example. The point remains...sometimes it's better to spend a little bit more and get a better vehicle. Here's my Subaru example:

 

1996 Outback 2.2l, manual, 202K miles. $2,000 purchase + $2,000 repairs (Head gasket, tires, brakes all around) = $4,000. I ended up buying a 1997 2.5l, auto, 167K miles for $3,900. Head gasket already replaced, new battery, decent tires. Only needed a new radiator. In the end I got a nicer car with less miles for $500 more.

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Indeed, I agree with you. I just recently traded off my 95 sedan 4eat for a 2000 l wagon with a 5mt, both cars were clean, but the wagon had 170k and mine had 245k w/ac and p/s I was getting my car ready for auto-xing so it didn't have anything comfy in it and this wagon was being sold for 1300 and all it needed was a clutch. Clutch and flywheel cost $580 seeing that i already have a car that I was going to use for abuse, I just basically got my lady a new car that she can be comfortable driving and I can murder out my 90 lswagon.
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