clutch replacement

[maineSubi]

Hi all,

 

125K on my 05 LGT and the clutch has started to slip in all gears. I plan to replace it with the fifth gen clutch and smfw kit from fred beans. This is the same as the 07 wrx set up correct?

 

I am at stock power and don't plan to go much further. Suspension upgrades and upgraded replacement parts when necessary are my only definite plans.

 

All the turbo failure on here makes me nervous, as I haven't had any problems but nor have I checked my banjo bolts or anything else. I don't burn oil so that's my only indicator it is in good condition. When I am having my clutch replaced should I have the mechanic pull my up pipe and check the turbo shaft for play?

 

I have the know how to do minor maintenance but lack the tools. Is it worth having my mechanic check my banjos? Or at least the easier one to get to?

 

Also have had some light bumping feeling in the car upon acceleration and specifically when I first start driving, signs of spark plugs going? Possible cv boot tear, I'm going to have that checked out as well. I think I'm planning on replacing the spark plugs seeing as how they've been on the car its entire life.

 

I hate to say it but it seems like there is always something that can be fixed. The radiator had a small leak, but it hasn't leaked in a month. And my brakes just won't seem to stay consist.

 

Looking for opinions, comments or concerns

[JermTheElf]

I have an Exedy stage 1 clutch for sale with only 12,000 miles on it. I'm selling it for $250 shipped. It is the one that pairs with the 07 WRX SMFW.

 

You'll want the mechanic to pull the downpipe to check for shaft play, and check the banjo bolt filter on the turbo oil feed line

[BarManBean]

Also, I don't know why you're saying you want to put a fifth gen clutch in. That won't work. You can put in an 06/07 WRX SMFW, but you'll want to mate it with a 07-09 clutch, not a fifth gen clutch ('10+).

 

If you plan to stay stock, just swap in another stock clutch and get another 125k miles out of it.

[maineSubi]

That was my mistake, on the clutch call out. Instead of replacing my dmfw, I'm going to use the 08 smfw and clutch combo. I was asking if this was the same as the 07 wrx set up

[Max Capacity]

I have an Exedy stage 1 clutch for sale with only 12,000 miles on it. I'm selling it for $250 shipped. It is the one that pairs with the 07 WRX SMFW.

 

You'll want the mechanic to pull the downpipe to check for shaft play, and check the banjo bolt filter on the turbo oil feed line

 

Get his clutch, and buy a 07 SMFW from Fredbeans, its the same as the 07-09 Legacy GT.

 

Ask the guys the FB to make sure, they are good and will tell you the real story.

 

When the trannys out for the clutch, have them reach up and check the turbo for shaft play, up/down, in/out. There should be no charge and the down pipe will be removed any ways.

 

While the tranny is out, have them remove the banjo filter from the back side fo the passenger side head. Have FB's send you new crush washers for that.

 

Make sure the kit above has a new pilot bearing with it. Aks Jeff to verify ?

 

You may want to tell the guy's to grease the shaft on the starter, thegear hang's up when its cold. after you release the key to run.

 

The spark plugs should be changed at 60,000 miles.

 

After the plugs are changed drive it and see if you still have the "some light bumping feeling in the car upon acceleration". May be get a can of MAF cleaner and do that.

 

 

The axles will be checked when the tranny comes out for the clutch.

 

If you plan to keep the car, I suggest you look into getting the car off the stock MAP. It has been known to be the cause of burnt valves, which will also cause rough idle.

[BarManBean]

OP indicated that he's staying stock or at least very close to it. No need for an aftermarket clutch. He should stick with a stock part.

[FJuan]

^^ I agree, if you don't plan on modding much, just replace the clutch with OEM.

[maineSubi]

.

 

While the tranny is out, have them remove the banjo filter from the back side fo the passenger side head. Have FB's send you new crush washers for that.

Completely remove it? or remove it to check if it has any blockage and replace? My mechanic is good, but I wouldn't be surprised if he hasn't worked on any turbo'd subis, is a banjo filter relatively common across other companies?

 

 

The exedy clutch sounds like a deal, but replacing with stock sounds a lot more reliable. And that is ultimately what I want out of the car. Obviously I enjoy driving fast, but I know if start beefing this thing up across the bard, the reliability factor goes out the window for some key components.

[Max Capacity]

That was my mistake, on the clutch call out. Instead of replacing my dmfw, I'm going to use the 08 smfw and clutch combo. I was asking if this was the same as the 07 wrx set up

 

Yes.

 

Also make sure the guy's grease the snout on the tranny where the TOB slides. Don't want you to have TOB issues.

 

 

Oh, you know about the cat in the up pipe, right ?

 

There again, if you don't drive the car hard, may be you'll be ok.

[Max Capacity]

Completely remove it? or remove it to check if it has any blockage and replace? My mechanic is good, but I wouldn't be surprised if he hasn't worked on any turbo'd subis, is a banjo filter relatively common across other companies?

 

 

The exedy clutch sounds like a deal, but replacing with stock sounds a lot more reliable. And that is ultimately what I want out of the car. Obviously I enjoy driving fast, but I know if start beefing this thing up across the bard, the reliability factor goes out the window for some key components.

 

I have both mine removed from my 2005. Seems very few company's do this filter.

 

I hated the stock clutch in all 3 of my Legacys GT's, the 1998, the 2000 and the 05. They would all slip when backing up in 3-4inches of snow. didn't give my much confidance.

 

Personally I would never put a OEM clutch back in the car. My 05 I put a Spec 2+ in at 72,000, the first tranny rebuild. That clutch was replaced at 154,000 mile because I installed a new short block. The clutch still grabbed fine and looked fairly good.

 

My Spec 2 clutch has been in there 20,000 miles + and has been great.

[apexi]

Personally I would never put a used clutch in my car, but that's just me.

[thisheregirafFe]

fwiw i had an exedy stage 1 clutch put in when my shop recommended giong single mass fw. i absolutely love it. was only grabby for about a day and now it's as smooth as can be and i love the action/travel/feel.

[ssbtech]

I hated the stock clutch in all 3 of my Legacys GT's, the 1998, the 2000 and the 05. They would all slip when backing up in 3-4inches of snow. didn't give my much confidance.

 

Are you sure it was the clutch slipping? When maneuvering in snow I could never tell how much "slip" was the clutch or the wheels. I think I was worried about stalling it so I'd slip the clutch too much, but I never noticed the clutch slipping with my foot right off the pedal.

 

I have an 08 FW and clutch in my 05 now. Now way I was going to pay for a DMFW!

 

Oh, and OP: Get the TSK3 bearing kit either from Fred Beans or other vendors here on the forum. Cheap insurance and I think it's a better bearing than stock.

[maineSubi]

Grabbing all the necessary from fred beans tomorrow, decided on the 07 stock setup.

Thanks for the input!

 

 

OT: will a cobb up require a tune? I'd like to lose the cat while things are apart. But don't wanna gut the stock.

[JermTheElf]

Grabbing all the necessary from fred beans tomorrow, decided on the 07 stock setup.

Thanks for the input!

 

 

OT: will a cobb up require a tune? I'd like to lose the cat while things are apart. But don't wanna gut the stock.

 

No you don't. Just make sure to put a 2.2k resistor in the plug harness for the sensor

[maineSubi]

No you don't. Just make sure to put a 2.2k resistor in the plug harness for the sensor

 

Awesome! Any 2.2k resistor? I have some from a circuits class I took.

[ssbtech]

Should be fine. I think I used a 1w resistor.

 

Cut the EGT wire a few inches from the plug, solder in the resistor with heat shrink.

 

Or just rip the wires out of the plug and jam the resistor in there and smother it with electrical tape, but that's not my style

[JermTheElf]

Or just unplug the harness, and put them in the sockets and e tape it?

[Max Capacity]

Just stick the 2.2k resistor in the connector on the shock tower, tape it well and be done with it.

 

I think I hinted earlier, the OP should get the car off the stock MAP.

 

If he's interested we can tell how what to do.

 

If he'd like to take a ride down, my Tuner has a nice package deal fora tune with a wideband and a few things for a good price.

 

http://www.tuningalliance.com

 

Check out his thread in the Vendor Forum

[maineSubi]

Just stick the 2.2k resistor in the connector on the shock tower, tape it well and be done with it.

 

I think I hinted earlier, the OP should get the car off the stock MAP.

 

If he's interested we can tell how what to do.

 

If he'd like to take a ride down, my Tuner has a nice package deal fora tune with a wideband and a few things for a good price.

 

www.tuningalliance.com

 

Check out his thread in the Vendor Forum

 

I am on board to get off my stock MAP but aren't looking to increase boost, if anything I'd like to better my gas mileage.

 

I do drive the car hard occasionally, but like I said, reliability is the biggest thing for me right now and will be for the next 10 months.

 

Ideally I would buy an AP, but I may just buy the cables and download the necessary software onto my computer.

 

That is down the road though. I am going into my senior year of college, so naturally, I'm broke.

 

Where is the plug for the wire harness located? Am I going to have to instruct my mechanic or is that something I can do after the tranny is back in?

[Max Capacity]

The $30 cable plugs into the OBD2 port by the drivers right knee. Get a e-tune for like $150

 

Is that what you were asking ?

[maineSubi]

The $30 cable plugs into the OBD2 port by the drivers right knee. Get a e-tune for like $150

 

Is that what you were asking ?

 

 

I was asking about the up pipe sensor cable I'll be shoving a resistor in.

 

Thanks for all the info Max

[Max Capacity]

The up pipe has the EGT sensor in it. When you remove the pipe and sensor you need to stick the 2.2k resistor inthe female part of the harness on the shock tower. Tape it over and your good.

 

 

Do you have the service manual yet ?

 

 

Another tip I learned after ripping my inlet tube to the turbo is, to use bolts to hole the turbo to the up pipe. I got 3 bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block from my dealer. The bolts make it much easier to line up the inlet, turbo and oil return hose at the same time.

 

You also may want to replace the oil return hose from the bottom of the turbo tothe head. It's a $20 hose at the dealer but it could save your engine. There has been at least one here that cracked and the result from the leak was a siezed engine.

[maineSubi]

The up pipe has the EGT sensor in it. When you remove the pipe and sensor you need to stick the 2.2k resistor inthe female part of the harness on the shock tower. Tape it over and your good.

 

 

Do you have the service manual yet ?

 

 

Another tip I learned after ripping my inlet tube to the turbo is, to use bolts to hole the turbo to the up pipe. I got 3 bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block from my dealer. The bolts make it much easier to line up the inlet, turbo and oil return hose at the same time.

 

You also may want to replace the oil return hose from the bottom of the turbo tothe head. It's a $20 hose at the dealer but it could save your engine. There has been at least one here that cracked and the result from the leak was a siezed engine.

 

I do not have the service manual.

 

I am having a mechanic do all the work so I am assuming he will not rip my turbo inlet. I don't really wanna throw money at things if I do not need to, if only at least one person has had problems do to a cracked oil return hose is that something I should really preemptively buy?

[Max Capacity]

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

If the turbo is being removed, and you don't replace the hard oil return hose with a new soft one and months or even a years from now it cracks and takes out the $4000 engine + labor...how would you feel then ?

 

The inlet hose is very easy to rip trying to put the turbo inlet in it. Been there, done that.