ScoobyDoo94 Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 ^I re-did my bottom grounds ($4 for some wire and connectors at home depot. WIN) and went to the dealer's service station. They said there's probably a break in a wire of either of the cam sensors, the crank sensor, and/or the knock sensor. So guess what I get to do tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 If anyone could take pictures of the engine grounds for me (minus the two underneath the car, I have those attached and fixed) it'd be much much much appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Never mind, I've found a relay under the dash that when buzzing, it throws the er hc code. When its not buzzing, the car will turn over but not start. Its a brown relay to the right of the glove box. When this relay is buzzing the tachometer is going absolutely nutso. This happens when the crank position sensor is connected and disconnected. Does this help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Loose connection. Maybe with the main harness... or an engine ground. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Never mind, I've found a relay under the dash that when buzzing, it throws the er hc code. When its not buzzing, the car will turn over but not start. Its a brown relay to the right of the glove box. When this relay is buzzing the tachometer is going absolutely nutso. This happens when the crank position sensor is connected and disconnected. Does this help? So did replacing this, fix your problem ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 I don't have a replacement for it, so I don't know yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 After cleaning some other grounds and tightening two loose ground screws it cranks but will not start. I think the battery is drained. What do you guys think? EDIT: Jumped it, still nothing. Just cranks faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Did the error code go away? Maybe your keys are not programmed. Did you change ecu? X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 All codes are gone, ecu is still the same. Problem was a loose ground, but now the car won't start. It just keeps cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Are your fuel lines backwards? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay12Legacy Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 how long you letting it crank if the battery was dead sometimes it WILL take a min before it fires... Has to relearn cam and crank signals and also run codes just for giggles Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 ^^ hold key in "on" position for 10 sec after any ECU reset, then crank to avoid that. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 It was out of time. Aligned on the arrow instead of the dash. No my valves at bent... Stupid mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 I got my heads back today, the valves were NOT bent. This is good, and bad all at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 What do the pistons and walls look like ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 Beautiful. Not a scratch. Although, one side (1&3 IIRC) looked as if the rings hadn't seated properly yet because there was oil inside the combustion chamber when I removed the head. I also read the codes right before the engine got pulled and got a P2007, intake manifold stuck closed. I'm not sure if it was a fluke or not. I can't remember the other code, only that it was pending and it was a P04xx. It might have been because of the new up-pipe that has no converter in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 I now know why 1&3 looked so fouled with oil, it was actually carbon from incomplete combustion. Why? The TGV on that side will not even budge. How can I go about fixing this? Is a new TGV assembly in order, a new motor or solenoid maybe? Or can I fix it some other way (WD-40, B'laster, concussive persuasion?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 If you've come this far, look into the TGV delete kit. I would think you should be able to movethe butterfly inside hte TGV by hand. Contact m sprank and get his input, before you do much else. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 I can't afford the TGV and the tune to make it work right. I asked a technician at the dealer who is very knowledgeable about aftermarket parts and he said a TGV delete was not only useless until you build a 400+HP engine, but without a tune, it will run like absolute crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 I can't afford the TGV and the tune to make it work right. I asked a technician at the dealer who is very knowledgeable about aftermarket parts and he said a TGV delete was not only useless until you build a 400+HP engine, but without a tune, it will run like absolute crap. So did you get yours to free up and move ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 It's out and moving, just not freely. It takes a bit to make it go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Have you sprayed it with something like PB Blaster ? How do you plan to lube it before you put it back in? Have you removed the sensor from the end ? Does the sensor seem to be holding it back ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Yes I've used PB B'laster, its my best friend thus far. I'm thinking either high temp grease or engine oil. Both sensor and solenoid have been removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 I can't afford the TGV and the tune to make it work right. I asked a technician at the dealer who is very knowledgeable about aftermarket parts and he said a TGV delete was not only useless until you build a 400+HP engine, but without a tune, it will run like absolute crap. Your friend is very knowledgeable about STOCK cars. Remove the butterflies but leave the shaft. The car won't know you removed them. But you should probably take the TGV apart and rebuild it so the sensor and motor spin together and don't fight each other. The TGV's are only used under cold start. So yes, you're cold start might not be as good as before, but the car certainly won't run like crap. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo94 Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 Put in the freed up TGV. Still won't start. Sent another P2007 code and knocks when trying to run. Took off the sensor to see if the motor for the TGV worked, it did, so there is no reason for a manifold stuck closed code and a no start situation. Not to mention the horrifying knock it has now on the passenger side... I give up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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