urdrwho Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Today I got the wheel on the completed body work, brought up a polished look and I was not 100% satisfied. I bet I blocked this job 4 different times and when it was primed, it looked well. I had a lot of rust to remove and metal to replace. The primer is first primer and before any blocking. I know my arch isn't perfect. Geez adding a gloss sure bring out the imperfections and what could I have done to get a professional job. All I can say is that it is acceptable for a shade tree job. The car was my son's first car and has some war wounds such as the hood. He rear ended a van and the hood took the brunt of it. So I guess the job is acceptable for what can be called the beater car of the family. It is 1000% better than the big bubbling rust that was there before my body work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Block sanding... primer then block sand.... low spots will show. Looks good tho... I'd be happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 ^^agreed, looks good. Imo bondo work is tougher to get right than pulling or shrinking. In an area like that with contour its a little harder unless you start the bondo 10-12 inches around the affected area (in the flats) meaning start the blend just under the window where the steel has the factory break and beyond the fuel door and do the feathering even farther back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 I did go several inches beyond but I agree, 10>12 would have allowed a smoother blend. I've been in body shops and those guys spread a lot of bondo to cover what I would consider a small dent. I guess it allows them room to use the tools for a smooth finish. Bondo is a PITA because it dries to darn fast to mix a lot and then smooth a large area. I've read where people say bondo without hardener will dry but I am not sure about that one. Too late now because I am not doing it again. I give it a 10 foot rating, meaning from a 10 foot glance you won't see the imperfections. ^^agreed, looks good. Imo bondo work is tougher to get right than pulling or shrinking. In an area like that with contour its a little harder unless you start the bondo 10-12 inches around the affected area (in the flats) meaning start the blend just under the window where the steel has the factory break and beyond the fuel door and do the feathering even farther back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Yeah I have seen small quarter size dents covered with a softball sized patch, imo that's due to lazyness...not flattening the dent or pulling it. I like the rating system you go by, pretty funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gergeek Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 looks good now come fix mine haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I can't because I have another one on the other side to do but it is much smaller. I've removed the rubber trim from around the wheel wells. They seem like nothing more than a moisture collector (eventually rust) and nobody will know. looks good now come fix mine haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 ^ya know, ive ripped those off of strangers' car's in the parking lot before, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 The best way to find low and high spots is to mist flat black spray paint and start sanding. Professional body techs do this for a ultra smooth and flat surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Zues Doing them a favor for the long run, I've left mine in there because it rains about a half inch per year here. Some call that theft...but your more like robin hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 what i didnt tell you is that I stash them all away in a toolbox jk, rust isn't a huge issue up here.. no salt on the roads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 I've posted about the rudder mouldings before and I'll say this again. Keep them on but they do need to be removed once and a while and cleaned. When you take them off your more prone for rusting as the factory wasn't meticulous when applying the seam sealer or primer/paint. On my old 96 my quarters were rust free and it never had body damage or work, I took them off and a 1 1/2 later I started getting rust on the lip. After inspecting I noticed where the quarter and wheel well met which would be the lip there were spots that didn't have seam sealer and or paint. If you do remove the rubber I would paint the seam at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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