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LV and Logs, review and some help


gimpydingo

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In 3rd gear on a flat road you should be struggling to hit boost targets. In your case, you see turbo dynamics is scrambling to pull WGDC enough to keep it in check. You're still running rather low timing at lower revs... with IAM at 1 you should be a couple of degrees higher than that in the saddle there, even before FLKC kicks in.

Work your way through the boost control system until you figure out why you're overboosting. You could try running a hose directly from the compressor outlet to the wastegate actuator and doing another pull. This will tell you if the WG actuator is doing it's job properly. A functioning stock actuator should have boost leveling off at around 10psi at peak and then tapering off gently toward redline.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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You could try running a hose directly from the compressor outlet to the wastegate actuator and doing another pull. This will tell you if the WG actuator is doing it's job properly. A functioning stock actuator should have boost leveling off at around 10psi at peak and then tapering off gently toward redline.
Excellent suggestion. :)
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So after searching, looking at turbo installs and diagrams, I cannot for the life of me determine where the comp outlet is. A little help. Thanks for your patience!

 

The compressor outlet is where the air exits the turbo en-route for the intercooler. There's a nipple on the front of the housing which now should be connected to your boost controller and the wastegate actuator via a tee. Connect this boost source directly to the wastegate actuator with a short length of vacuum hose.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Having a heck of a time getting the lines off. Any suggestions? Can I just pull the line from the boost solenoid and plug up the end? I tried a screwdriver, but was a afraid of breaking something. I might cut the L shaped tube from the WGA and just replace it.

WG.thumb.jpg.22c111f8c87facd2200f38f421178b6e.jpg

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No because there is a restrictor pill.

 

Use pliers, squeeze the clamps, and while you have it squeezed, slide it (the clamp) down the rubber line away from the end. Then let go with the pliers. Pull on the line to remove it. Note: don't drop the clamp when the line pops off!!

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I got it. No room to get the hands in there. I used the pliers to hold one side the line on the T and used the screwdriver to push the line off. All good, didn't even gouge my hand. So here's the setup:pic.

 

I wasn't able to get a good pull in 3rd, the religious cult has setup their camp for a few weeks on my test road. Attached is the log I was able to get; I'll get some better data this week from a full 3rd pull. Now my target boost is showing 13.54 around 3k rpm's, does this have to do with it not being on the boost solenoid? I just want to make sure I have it setup correctly.

 

Thanks again

2107704342_wgaline.thumb.jpg.2067ad1c45d186e0a6bfab1857454a0b.jpg

romraiderlog_20130715_174145_b.csv

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Target boost won't change from mechanical changes. Target boost is set by your tune, which from all indications is stock.

 

MRP is your actual boost that you're seeing, which appears to be correct given that you are running WG pressure. So that's good. Were you able to find new hose that won't kink and you can replace all 3 sections of the T with? It looks like your WG is functioning correctly and opening up when it should. There is a restrictor pill in one of the sections that you have to keep. Were you able to measure the diameter of the hole in the pill?

 

Does your boost control solenoid look stock?

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Of course I can't find my drill bits to check the hole size and the electrician next door doesn't have one either. Going to grab some bits today. Closest thing I had was soldering wire which was .032, too small.

 

Any idea what size the hole should be? I've looked around and about all I can find is:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/restrictor-pill-sizes-bleed-type-boost-control-73804.html

 

Since i have an 07, should I look a the 07 WRX size (0.0315) or STI size (0.0335), both are very close? Or (reading other threads) is it a 1.2mm (0.0472). I have a feeling it's the 1.2mm, since my soldering wire had quiet a bit of wiggle room.

 

Also I was planning on checking further for vac leaks. Should I also clean the boost solenoid?

 

I'll post back about the hole size and another pull as soon as I am able.

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Of course! I did it by model year, which probably wasn't the best. Thanks. No vac leaks, maf cleaned, still replaced hoses on the T with new ones. Gotta get some drill bits in the next couple of days. Def a VF46 turbo, boost sol is also stock. Everything looks pretty stock, all with the original paint dots/lines on all the lines and bolts of everything. If the pill is also stock, then I guess I'll take into the dealer and see what they say.

 

Can I get a slightly larger pill to help with the overboosting, say a .0430, up from the stock .0394? Obv that seems more like a bandaid than finding the root cause. Or even adjust the WG actuator arm, but the WG seems to be working properly. Just searching around for other options.

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Pill is not a 1.0mm/0.0394

 

The #57 drill bit, 1.0922mm/0.0430 fits in the hole. #56, 1.1811mm/.0465, does not. So the pill must be roughly a 1.15mm/0.0453.

 

I can't seem to find the actual stock size of the pill either. I know Infamous said 1.0mm, but other sites are stating 1.2mm. Either way my pill size does not seem to be correct.

 

I've found the lines on Fredbean, but just lists 3 sizes without specifying the vehicle. I'll pick up a 1.0mm and 1.2mm. Any other suggestions?

 

I see the WG doesn't have an adjustable nut either. So pill size change first, then...

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