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A couple Questions I'm New sorry


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I am new and I have a Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT 05 with everything stock. In a week I am ordering a OBX Exhaust and a Mach 1 BOV. Is this a good buy?

 

Also, tonight I was out driving around and a person said my car was trash and I know it's not so I asked him to race and he said he drove a Civic with a GSR in it. I don't really know what that is... Yes I know I'm a noob and don't know much about cars. He wanted to race for money though and wanted to do a 40 roll. Would I have beat him or lost ? Why do people always want to race from a roll though I don't understand? Isn't a race from a dead stop?

Thanks for answering sorry for being a noob....

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The bov is a pointless purchase, just makes noise. Also don't race an Outback you'll look dumb win or lose.

 

Really???!! You ran into a ricer! Lol btw no street stories allowed here i believe. But to answer ur exhaust and bov question, not worth the money unless you plan on going stage 1 with a tune and so on....

It's a sedan... and I did... I would have raced him but I didn't want to lose money. I will be getting a tune after I get a short ram intake, but would I have beaten a GSR or no way to really tell?

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OP (this means "original poster", just FYI): STOP EVERYTHING RIGHT NOW. DO NOT SPEND ANY OF YOUR MONEY! yet...

 

Nearly everything you've mentioned is a bit of a "no no" on these cars for one reason or another. OBX exhaust? Really crappy fitment. BOV? You'll be creating a small vacuum leak and your car won't like you. Intake? Unless you want it just for the noise it's a bit of a waste until you are well over 300whp.

 

Now that we've covered that, start digging around on the site here. Go into all of the subforums (suspension, turbo, transmission, etc.) and read through ALL of the stickies. You'll learn a TON.

 

Then come back and post up what your plans are. It will likely involve a bellmouth downpipe, catless up pipe, stage 2 tune, sway bars, struts / springs, etc.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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OP (this means "original poster", just FYI): STOP EVERYTHING RIGHT NOW. DO NOT SPEND ANY OF YOUR MONEY! yet...

 

Nearly everything you've mentioned is a bit of a "no no" on these cars for one reason or another. OBX exhaust? Really crappy fitment. BOV? You'll be creating a small vacuum leak and your car won't like you. Intake? Unless you want it just for the noise it's a bit of a waste until you are well over 300whp.

 

Now that we've covered that, start digging around on the site here. Go into all of the subforums (suspension, turbo, transmission, etc.) and read through ALL of the stickies. You'll learn a TON.

 

Then come back and post up what your plans are. It will likely involve a bellmouth downpipe, catless up pipe, stage 2 tune, sway bars, struts / springs, etc.

 

Wow, someone might think you know what your talking about...Oh yea, you do. LOL

 

Good advice there. Can we make that a sticky for newbee's ?

 

Oh yea, might want to add, learn how to check the oil level and keep it topped off, never let it get low on oil.

 

Oh BTW, a civic with a B18 just ran a 7.995 1/4 mile at 189mph last weekend. They can be fast.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Racing - not worth it unless you are on the track.

 

What you shall do to start with is to check that everything is in good working order and start your tuning by looking at the suspension and brakes.

 

B.t.w. next time someone challenges you (especially civics) state that your condition is 4" of snow.

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I feel anyone when buying a new car should have at least a 1-2 month probational period where they are not allowed to buy any mods.

Then after searching they will know what are good buys.

WWW.MODDICTION.COM

Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs.

Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more!

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Search for banjo bolt filter and catted uppipe. These are minor design flaws in the stock 05s and 06s that can cause turbo failures which in turn can cause other significant problems (like engine failures). First step is reliability and safety. Boy, you'd sure hate too spend money modding your car and then fry your turbo and shortblock. Take a step back and read a bit. You'll thank us later.

 

Also, let me recommend a Forge by-pass valve instead of a blow off valve. You can still hear it (with the windows down, anyway), and it doesn't screw up your airflow with unmetered air. Wait until you are ready to do an intercooler upgrade (even if it's just bulletproofing ... see BarManBean for that) before you worry about a bpv though.

 

Fyi ... your car is rated at about 243hp at the crank (~193hp at the wheels) in the stock configuration. It is not a speed demon from the factory, but it is not slow. And depending on your budget and mod willingness, it has ridiculous potential in it if you want to try to bring it out. Just take your time learning how to do it right. You came to the right place for that. Enjoy!

 

Welcome to LGT.com!

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Personally.... just me, I'd start with a tune. I like the Cobb Access Port. Just because it's pretty good bang for your buck I think because it has more than one trick in its hat. (adjustments, monitoring, troubleshooting, etc) Just my opinion. I'm new to LGT's also. I came from an 08 Cobalt SS (turbo) that was modified. It was pretty quick! (320whp and 360 torque - rounded numbers)

 

I'm not a fan of street racing any more so I will advise against it. I finally get my license back next Tuesday which was a primary reason to part with the Cobalt. My 05 LGT Limited is completely stock other than the stage 1 tune and that's how I'm leaving it. :)

 

The only good thing about the Civics of that time period are light weight. They don't take as much power to be quick. I had an Acura RSX-S (basically a luxury Civic) It was pretty quick for 2.0 N/A. Only tune, intake and exhaust (suspension mods, etc) and it would beat MazdaSpeed 6's. (a larger, turbocharged engine) just because it hardly weighed anything and the 6-speed manual trans didn't hurt either with it revving to 8,500 rpm. Probably barely 200whp.

There's a lot to consider. If you're auto and he's manual, or what mods are done to it, drivers, etc. In my SS I did run into one fast Civic with that motor. It was turbo'd and just crazy loud. Looked like a... work in progress kinda car but it was quick!

 

In my SS, I blew out ring lands on two pistons. One was pretty bad, so I rebuilt with Forged pistons. The intercooler also blew out once. So if you're going to mod... I personally would advise like the others here have. Don't completely get caught up in power. Make sure everything is ready to handle that power or you may find yourself spending a lot more money than you bargained for and without your 'baby' for quite a while. Plus, LGT is just a nice ride. I find it COMPLETELY enjoyable just the way it is. Speed isn't everything and there's ALWAYS something faster.

 

I did have a forge bpv on my SS. I loooooooved it. What a quality piece!

 

Me as an example... I did the tune. IF... I do any other mod it'll probably be the bulletproof intercooler mod just because I don't feel like dealing with that later on.

 

Well I'm just rambling on....

Hope it was a helpful addition to what the others have been saying. :) Good luck man and be careful.

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yup, read, and more reading.

 

I made the noob mistake of picking up an intake right after purchase because on most cars intake and cat back are the low hanging fruit power mods. Turns out not to be the case on these cars. There is a really specific path to power and performance that will depend on your ultimate goals. Which is part of the reason why this site is so awesome, its all been tried, and written about.

 

Try using google search operators which allow you to search within the site much better than the native search window. In goggle enter "site:legacygt.com" then whatever your search terms are. In the meantime, stickies should keep you pretty busy for a few weeks/months.

 

maybe keep yourself busy with some of the projects in here

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My opinion:

 

Your car is too new (to you) for you to be doing anything to it at all. Get a few months under your belt at the very least.

 

I agree - don't put out any money yet - in case a problem pops up.

 

Take care of wear items first when starting to put money into the car.

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As you read here, keep a pen and paper handy. write down things you like.

 

Lots of info here. A lot of us have learned the hard way...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If I were to start from the beginning I would get a custom stage one tune, bullet proof tmic for power and focus on suspension do koni struts, good springs, sways, endlinks and white line control arm bushings. Spend the rest of my money on tires for autox and road courses
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If I were to start from the beginning I would get a custom stage one tune, bullet proof tmic for power and focus on suspension do koni struts, good springs, sways, endlinks and white line control arm bushings. Spend the rest of my money on tires for autox and road courses

 

Exactly. I 2nd this 100%

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