motorbreath

Looking at the parts schematic, it looks like the lower one is required in order for the top and middle heat shields to be assemble into a mechanically sound unit. I'll have to think about this, its alot of money and they are going to rust out again even with my skid plate, based on experience with my previous Outback in Canada.

The top one does provide some heat shielding. If you want to replace the top one, the middle one will need to replaced because it is what the other heat shields bolted to. Personally I would replace them.

I already did the repair, but it is a very tiny pinhole where the tube is welded to the flange, so I think it was the combination of being exposed to Canadian roads in the winter and a welding defect. The rest of the manifold is covered in rust, but structurally sound, so I think I am just unlucky

Yikes on the manifold rusting out. None of the cars I have seen seem like they are anywhere near rusting out the manifolds. I guess that is why you subframe was rusted out. It seem like your car was subject to more corrosion than most.

Very nice, I have told myself that my next house would have a two-car garage at least a hundred times over the past 20 years...but I have never been able to put my money where my mouth is and still have a tiny single car garage.

Glad to see someone else is living the dream!

A few months ago, after I had my front subframe replaced due to a rust-induced failure, I started to hear a small exhaust leak from the passenger-side of the exhaust manifold. After it getting noticeably worse a month ago, I took it to an exhaust shop which showed me that it was a tiny hole in the manifold where it reduces in diameter near the cylinder 1 flange. The previous owner had run the car without the underbody plastic shield, it seems the exhaust manifold is another victim of this abuse.

I bought/installed a Primitive skid plate late last year, so that should mitigate further rust. However, I am not able to get a new manifold until later this month (only 2 in North America!). As a temporary fix, I used J-B Weld 37901 ExtremeHeat High Temperature Resistant Metallic Paste, which has been working for the last 3 weeks.

Once I get the new manifold and turbo inlet gasket, I will send the turbo to get rebuilt (hopefully a BNR 18G) and upgrade the fuel pump, injectors, j-pipe, etc etc. One thing I am not sure about are the heat shields...now that I have a metal skid plate do I need all of them, some of them, none of them? All of the existing heat shields are almost completely rusted away.

I think that, for most people, the best insurance against potential issues in the future is the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner. Even if you were to install a catch can, it needs to be regularly emptied, which is hard to start on top of. An AOS is alot of work to install and $$$, especially given that there is no off-the-shelf kit.

I have used the intake valve cleaner a few times with my previous vehicle, it takes two people, but is not horribly involved.

I do not have a 7th gen, but my previous truck had DI, from my understanding this is eventually going to happen. In order to prevent it, I installed a catch can (requires periodic emptying) and used CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner once per year.

Had no problems for 5 years and 100k km until I sold the truck earlier this year.

I ordered the Q300 catback and catted j-pipe from Invidia end of last year, I had to wait roughly a month before they shipped, but they arrived without issue.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I don't think they are coming back. Much of the 5th Gen GT parts once they run out, the manufacturers never make another batch. The production is so low that many manufacturers have been sitting on the inventory for 8-10 years.

I have heard of this happening, the tow truck operator does have an obligation to not damage your car, but I think you need to go through your insurance company and make a claim, the insurance company would then litigate.

contact the tow operator and the venue. you'd need a lawyer to get any traction , pun intended, unless you can prove you were legally parked.

 

otherwise get your insurance to pay for it under comprehensive

I know that this topic is addressed in several posts within this forum, but I just replaced mine yesterday and I have some advice for others:

1) Change your PCV valve! I know from the previous owner's records that the PCV valve was replaced a few years ago and has less than 20k mi on it, however the existing one was not working based upon a "shake" test. This maintenance item is quite simple, you just need to remove the intercooler (careful with the charge pipe!) and you have full access.

2) It is super simple, as long as you understand how to unclamp and clamp the super-special hose clamp on the block-side of the PCV valve. See the many Youtube videos on this, unclamping is simple using a small flathead screwdriver. Clamping is simple using a set of side-cutters, however I had quite a bit of trouble with this due to the clamp being abused from previous PCV installs. If it does not fully engage with side cutters, try for partial engagement and carefully use a set of needlenose pliers to push the catch mechanism fully together.

3) Inspect the y-shaped hose or plastic piece coming out of the block, many people find it is cracked and need to replace it. I imagine that how careful you are removing and installing the PCV valve and engaging the clamp has alot to do with these cracking. I used silicone spray for ease of removal and installation, this works really well for most hoses in my experience. I found that mine has a slight tear around where there is a cut-out for the clamp to rest in, but it did not seem to go all the way through. I'll likely replace it along with the PCV valve in a few years.

4) The boost/vacuum pressure definitely changed slightly with the new PCV valve, slightly lower during idle, so I think that confirms that the existing PCV valve was not working correct? If someone who actually knows something about engines can chime in, it would be appreciated!

After much discussion with my friend+mechanic and rumination regarding this build, I am strongly considering bailing on the twin scroll kit and doing something more traditional/reliable. My friend+mechanic wants me to keep it closer to stock so that it is somewhat reliable. He works on alot of custom builds of performance rally cars and is all about reliability, especially given that I do not have the skills to diagnose and fix many of the issues that inevitably will arise with a build like this.

While I did spend alot of $$$ on this kit, I am 99% sure I am going to send the stock turbo to BNR for their hybrid TD05H-18G upgrade, which seems like the most tried-and-true option out their for fifth gens.

I already have all of the parts needed for this alternate build, except for the turbo being rebuilt and a few gaskets, and can always sit on the twin scroll kit for a few years if I get the urge to make more power (baby!).

Thoughts? Criticisms? Ridicule?

Part II - The Build Stage 1 (planned for July 2021)

- Tactrix 3-port boost control solenoid

- Invidia catted downpipe/j-pipe/whatever-you-call-it (modified for v-band)

- IQ Performance custom twin scroll header

- BW EFR7163 turbo with custom oil sump and Turbosmart adjustable wastegate actuater

- IQ Performance custom FMIC kit with HKS R-type intercooler

- ACT HD Performance Street Clutch Kit, SB11-HDSS

- DW300 fuel pump with install kit

- 06-07 STI FPR

- Injector Dynamics ID1050X

- Tune for safe power/torque level for stock engine

Just my two cents, pretty much everyone I have known over the past 3 decades, friends and family, who were driving vehicles that burned lots of oil ended up blowing the engine at some point because they didn't stay on top of the oil loss.

This just happened to my neighbor's son and they ended up dropping $6k on a salvage engine with labor.

*

I’ve found, however, that it’s eating oil to the tune of about a quart every 3 tanks. It leaks a little around the valve cover, but not enough for anything to hit the ground. I know these EJ255’s were notorious for having ring problems that could have been replaced under warranty, but I have no idea if this one had anything done.

Is the picture for that part correct? My understanding is that the fuel filter is the fine mesh attachment at the bottom of the pump. I bought a kit which included this, does the plastic assembly have another filter inside of it?

I also notice there is a driver side filter as well, I have not seen anyone replace that before, but it seems like a good idea. I was planning to follow the instructions and this thread,

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-install-181399.html

Might as well put a new fuel filter in while you're in there...

 

https://parts.wildesubaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Fuel-Filter-Filter-Fuel-Pump/49249675/42072AJ070.html

So I have ordered most of what I need and will have to wait for a few weeks for things to trickle in. I am going to go with the AEM inline wideband controller with the wideband in the downstream O2 sensor location for the tune.

I'll do the fuel pump this weekend since it should not be that bad and the existing one is whining like crazy. The stock exhaust manifold is rusting away and there is a small leak either where the tube meets the flange for cylinders 1 or 3, I cannot tell which one. I am going to keep driving with this leak until the build next month, I cannot tow my dirtbike with my other car and I want to get some riding in before the build starts.

I found two tuners willing to e-tune this setup, CryoTune Performance and ShinjiTuned. Dave from CryoTune seems to have the most experience based on searching forum posts, so I am going to go with him.

I am disassembling the used turbo and FMIC kit from IQPerformance and replacing/rebuilding what I can. The wastegate actuator has a set of springs for 14psi, which is waaaay too stiff for my stage 2 goal. My understanding is that the stock block can handle up to 18psi, but I am thinking 14-16psi makes sense until I upgrade to forged internals etc. So either I pull out one of the 7psi springs or buy a 10psi spring, there is no way an 8psi configuration from TurboSmart spring chart.

OK, if you have successfully tuned with the WB in the downstream location than that seems convenient. I am going to wire it to use the ECU instead of using the gauge, I am using Btssm with the Tactrix OP for logging and do not want to run the wiring for the gauge into my cabin.

I'll then swap the OWM O2 sensor back in after the tune.

I'm using the rear O2 sensor with a catted J pipe. I have the wideband wired to the gauge in the car and sent video to the tuner for my tune. That would be the easiest way to get the wideband info for the tuner and return the car to stock when you're done with the tune.

Dave @ Cryo said the O2 sensors in our cars aren't sensitive enough to log the changes. I guess the newer 15+WRX's already have the upgraded O2 sensor in place, but we need to upgrade ours in the 5th gen LGT's.

From what I have read in this thread and a few others, if I go with the inline WB controller, I can install it in place of the downstream OEM O2 sensor and wire it to use that sensor's CANBUS plug. I can then use the ECU to log the downstream O2 sensor signal, which will actually be the WB signal, using a Tactrix OpenPort for my tuner. The downstream O2 sensor position is not ideal for the WB, but it has worked for several others on the forum.

Once the tune is complete I could remove the WB (keeping it safe for the next tune) and reinstall the downstream OEM O2 sensor so I can (hopefully) pass emissions without issue, my j-pipe/downpipe is catted.

Is this correct or am I misunderstanding what I have read?

EDIT: After losing a bit of sleep over this, I realize that those people using the downstream O2 sensor location for the WB must be running without a cat. I also read that the upstream OEM O2 sensor actually is a wideband sensor...the more I learn about this the more confused I get

AEM sells an inline wideband that is meant for people that don't actually need a gauge, like most people. It's the AEM 30-0310 X-Series Inline Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller.

 

Good write-up!

I'm not sure where you live, but I recently had to get my whole front subframe replaced because of it failing on the drivers side where the lower control arms attached. Since I was having all of that work done, I had all of the bushings replaced along with left/right lower control arms. I had just replaced the front and rear coils, dampers, and strut mounts replaced, so it drives really really well That being said, I am out quite a bit of $$$, but I do appreciate the car!

I recently built koni/h&r struts for my wife's 2011 2.5i. I had a shop install them along with a set of whiteline rca.

I also had the shop replace the front bearings. I brought the car in for a alignment and was turned away due to the inner and outer tie rod is shot so it can't be adjusted.

I am having the tie rod replaced.

Is there anything else I should consider replacing?

The car just hit 100k and all suspension components look ruff.

This is definitely what I am going to do, I was originally going to have this work done by my friend who has alot of experience with STIs and building Subarus for performance rally racing. He was not available up until recently, but I just found out today that he will have time in the next few weeks.

I need to start buying additional parts, I am using fabsx's build as a rough guide. He is making far more power than I plan to, so I am about to order,

- ACT HD Performance Street Clutch Kit, SB11-HDSS

- DW300 fuel pump with install kit

waiting for a tuner to confirm the following,

- 06-07 STI FPR

- Injector Dynamics ID1050X

Do you have the option of letting the shop do the install and then decide on the tuner later ? Simply asking for mechanical work to be completed shouldn't need you to commit to one specific ecu or tuner etc.

I can understand that for a carburetor with a throttle plate downstream of the fuel jet the heat of vaporization of the fuel can bring the temperature well below ambient, but for modern direct injection engines, or even port injection, the fuel is vaporized after the throttle body, correct? If so, with ambient temperature above freezing, what would cause the water vapour in the intake air to freeze?

Even at very high altitudes, the freezing point of water is essentially 0 C.

Uh ... yes, it does. It's entirely a function of ambient temperature, humidity, and pressure drop across the throttle plate. Induction icing is more of a problem with carburetors, due to the fact that a carburetor's throttle plate is downstream of the fuel jets (which provide substantial evaporative cooling), but it is still a potential problem with fuel injection as well.

Are you sure that there is significant heat transfer from the throttle body to the air going through the intake? Living in Canada, I would probably leave this in place given the -20 to -30C temperatures that we regularly see. I would hope that there would be a control valve of some sort that is references to IAT so that this is not happening in the summer. Seems like it could be a real problem down south in very hot climates.

- there are two coolant lines going into the throttle body making the throttle body sometimes 220F same as the engine which in my opinion is stupid if the goal for the engine is to breathe as colder air as possible. So what I did is I removed the both hoses and connected them with 3/8" od barb fitting from Home Depot. Subaru did good with plastic intake manifold which does not absorb a lot of heat from the engine so we do not need hot throttle body. The purpose of this is so in winter the plate does not freeze. I have read that some guys even in Canada with this mods do not have any issues in the winter.

The kit came with a custom bellmouth intake, but I am going to stick with the stock one since I will be driving this in all weather conditions and not planning to ever push past 350WHP.

This is great news, I contacted Cryo Tune Performance in Colorado, I have found that they have done some fifth gen tunes for a few forum members. I'll have to find an OS tuner in NY or PA that is reputable, but I'll have plenty of time to do that.

I am really looking forward to getting this work done!

Since there's no mention of you changing the intake, the MAF scaling should not be thrown off and that would make an etune easier I believe.

 

I see no reason why the etune with a slightly rich map and lower timing + lower wastegate duty would cause any drama getting you safely to a dyno.

 

My understanding is that would be very feasible. Particularly if you try to stay in closed loop as much as possible on your trip.

I contacted several shops that specialize in Subarus within 100km of Toronto. So far two of them are willing to do the mechanical work if I can find a tuner. I am looking into getting a safe low boost e-tune from one of the open source tuners active on this forum, which I would use to drive to them for a OS dyno tune.

I wouldn't mind a road trip and the extra cost so that I get the best open source tune. The question is if it's feasible to get a safe e-tune for this customized setup.

I've never gotten an e-tune or dyno tune, but I have used the Tactrix OpenPort to reflash my ECU to update to the latest OEM ROM revision. I am very set on OS.

Sounds like they want to have the option to reach out to Cobb if they have trouble with the tune.

 

Open source requires not only tuning knowledge, but also a deeper understanding of the ecu logic and likely takes more troubleshooting + time.

 

Do you have the option of letting the shop do the install and then decide on the tuner later ? Simply asking for mechanical work to be completed shouldn't need you to commit to one specific ecu or tuner etc.