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Aphex28

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Everything posted by Aphex28

  1. powersteering fluid could be low. Or you may need to just flush and replenish the rack itself. It may be air bubbles in the power steering system
  2. I'd actually put money on the rear main seal and/or cam seals/crank seal leaking before the head gasket. But either way, both of those entail pulling the motor or transmission. Which would give the dealership some credibility. These are all normal things that would be done during a timing belt job or something along those lines in a major service interval at your mileage. The engine won't crap itself. It'll just have a leaky butthole, so long as you make sure the oil is topped off it would run fine. But oil leaks are annoying in themselves.
  3. Bought them last week, but I just got a VA STI rear sway bar with bushings new for $95 A new set of rear endlinks Stoptech Street Pads front and rear Centric Cryo Treated rotors front and rear Mini-H1 Projector Retrofit kit from TheRetrofitSource New 18x8 Enkei TSP-6 wheels General GMAX RS summer tires in 225/45/18 I'll be happy to have the squishy snow tires off the car!
  4. How many miles are on the car? When was the last time you've changed the drive belts?
  5. Shrug. I've had leaky seals at 140k in a 8 year old motor. Worth it to change now versus needing to go back in in two years
  6. Water pump is almost as essential to change as the timing belt itself. Considering it is driven by the timing belt, changing it later entails just as much of a labor cost of doing the timing belt job
  7. I would get OEM Subaru Cam and crank seals as well as OEM Thermostat. I don't know much about those kits, but I feel more comfortable with Gates stuff. The latest Gates kit I got all came with Japanese bearing pulleys. Sorry I don't have specifics for you, but the Turbo Engine kit is a different beast. It will be easy enough to change out your drive belt at the same time. For that anything from Autozone would be fine. I think your motor is Single Overhead Cam, which really makes this job super easy IMO and definitely an easy way to save some cash if you're keen. YouTube has a lot of vidoes on it.
  8. Pic is with the swift. I had a 2017 GLI for a year https://photos.app.goo.gl/QFVw7LQeJajkzGU8A but i got it with the wrong transmission. But either way, it was still too small for the seat my wife had to sit in the back seat when we'd take my car since the baby seat wouldn't fit behind me (and im only 5"3')
  9. the biggest thing is the lack of Manual Transmission options. MT's only come in 2 door cars or cars that really aren't practical.
  10. Thanks. Lol tell my wife that! But really that's what made me buy it. Prefect for hauling my 2 year old in while not attracting attention, but still fun, without any real rust. Sucks that it burnt a valve a month after buying it, but i learned everything about the special-ness about this setup versus traditional ej cars. Besides, i feel like i saved one more rare 6mt lgt from going to the scrap graveyard. These cars are a dead breed. It's pretty impossible to find a quick, fun, 4 door car that can fit a baby seat comfortably in the back that comes with 3 pedals. I had a 15 wrx that i sold because i had to my seat almost all the way forward to fit a rear facing seat behind me. No bueno
  11. Hey, Yeah I'm already in the 5th gen fb group. I've grown out of going to meets now a days, been going to them for the past 20 years or so heh. Aside from WBM(I'm one of the original organizers) I don't have much interest
  12. Located in Dracut, MA. Selling the Swift Springs that were on my 2010 LGT when i bought it last Fall. They were too low and soft for my liking so I got a set of H&R springs that match better to what i want. Albeit still soft, but at least not rubbing on speed bumps if i didn't angle. asking $175 shipped I'm a new member here, but I'm an OG NASIOC(imprezars.com) member with a lot of feedback. Quick stats: Spring rates are 3.4K front, 4K rear. Lowers car -1.3 in front,-1.1 rear. Info: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/swift-springs-2010-legacy-sedan Not sure on the mileage but my car has 75k. They look like they are in the 20-40k range.
  13. orly. Where would it be hiding? You were looking to cut a hole into the top of your dash?
  14. I have a couple extra screens and plenty of pis in my lab! I'm def going to be doing this, although the hardest part for me would be figuring out anon-janky way of mounting the screen and pi. Although i wish the screen could be connected via a non-ribbon cable
  15. Yeah those parts sound right. Although replacing tophats IMO just get OEM replacements from autozone/rockauto etc... would be good. There is a bearing in the tophats that get tired with age as well as the rubber around it may be cracked.
  16. http://www.nada.com is pretty much what all dealers go by. base your price off of that.
  17. Ah yeah, it had good compression as of a few weeks ago, but yeah there was definitely crack in the valve and that cyl was eating a lot of oil for the past few thousand miles. Without compression, it had maybe 10 miles on it.
  18. The dripping oil is just from disassembly. I took the turbo and mani off so i can rebuild the turbp and replace the turbo oil pan and stuff
  19. I used a pair of Nameless mufflers from a forester XT. I bought my car with an Invidia N1 turboback so I just modded a forester xt intermediate(Lengthened and had to change the angle of the axelback flanges). and kept the N1 catback to sell.
  20. I fit an interstate group 34 battery into mine no problemo. It is definitely a better option
  21. I prefer ngk. Autozone/advanved/napa/O'Reilly's should have them fine
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