Aphex28

on partial throttle it's ok? If so it could be as easy as a boost leak. I do see it touching 14psi at WOT, but otherwise it has to be down to the plugs, coils or wiring to them. Were all of your coil plug clips intact or did you have to do the zip tie trick to hold them on? I-wire sells replacement plugs if so.

I found a pair of new brackets for 50 shipped amd impulse bought them yesterday. Will see if that helps my issue!

yeah I have the same issue I haven't been able to get it to line up after doing my projector retrofit

As Creep said, none of the WRX turbos will bolt on. Both of the flanges are different than ours on it. (Header flange won't match up, and the downpipe flange is pretty different.

nice!! P.S. I got this Sunshade from covercraft that actually fits perfectly in our windshields and folds up nice https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V2E024/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_wLAOFbMHYJTEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 or here https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-sun-shades/covercraft-uvs100-heat-shield-1677632863.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Sedan

Are you running a different radiator to deal with the increased heat load on the cooling system? Which one did you use if so? Also, which ports did you run the coolant from/to for the AWIC?

Nice!! Heh I'm not quite sure I've seen a BOV recirc line that was so long!

I have the first one for my GT. The metal part is important for not melting Front Center Engine Splash Shield DescriptionFeatures Front Center Engine Splash Shield by Replace®. Plastic. Designed specifically for your vehicle, Engine Cover is individually tested to confirm similar to the Original Equipment functional capabilities prior to leaving the manufacturing workshop of a plant to meet the exceptional quality standards and ideally fit your vehicle. Replaces Original (OE) Part #: 56410AJ02B, S9164C, SU1228105, B01NBE0MIS, 11759213 $32.90 more details on - https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-chassis-frames-body/replace-engine-cover-83727922.html

I got this under tray from carid to hold me up until i got the primitive skid plate and was reasonably impressed with how cheap it was https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-underbody-covers/ And i love this kit for clips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6FJGR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fIrIFbFPBTMM1 It has a lot of clips that actually match with subaru ones, some of them better

I can't say for sure, but when I did the brake booster swap in my RSTi many many years ago, it was 2-4 bolts holding the booster and then 1 linking it to the pedal(on the inside of the car). The outside had the bolts holding it to the slave as well as the lines. We had it done in under 3 hours I believe.

Do you have any farther away shots of the rear with the diffuser and fog light? I like

Took a pictures yesterday with my new grill and eyelids

Well the thread I provided will work. You just have to find a wire that gives accessory(key on 12v) power rather than power from the parking light. The method they use in there is a bit chintzy and sloppy, but it works. It's not the way I would do it, but at least it's reversible.

the panel gap isn't great, but it's only a little bit more than stock if you can deal with that. Really it's basically about how well you drill the holes. The gap that is there in my picture is from the heads of the clips As for the emblem. That's a stock trunk emblem that I bought off ebay. The emblem has 1 female screw hole and a post. For the screw hole I used a screw and a washer and for the post I threaded a nut onto it. I also backed the whole thing with grey mounting tape

I just got that grill from ebay. It took about 45 minutes of some work to get it to fit, but I'm pretty happy with it. You need to drill the holes for the plastic push clips, and I actually cut off 2 of the tabs on the lower part of the grill since I couldn't get them to work the way they wanted it to. IMO it looks better than the stock grill that's been plastidipped plastic albeit about as chintzy. But really I hate the chrome so I'll take either over that.

Don't really have exact directions, but really it just sounds like you want independent control of your foglights, as in, the switch inside just turns them on/off regardless of the headlights being on. In practice, it's as simple as providing accessory power to the wire going to the switch/relay for the foglights. Either way, maybe this will work for you https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-independent-fog-light-mod-223969.html

It's the RHF5 housing. so it can be rebuilt. This place offers a rebuild starting at 300 https://www.ebay.com/itm/VF40-TURBO-REBUILD-KIT-UPGRADE-FOR-IHI-VF38-VF46-VF54-JH5-SUBARU-VW-AUDI-SEAT/202757765917?hash=item2f354dfb1d:g:wcEAAOSwkwJdVd3i

yeah most likely, we think it had a crack in it that would build compression but let oil pass through at higher pressures

if you can change spark plugs (easy job IMO) you can compression test. just borrow one from autozone/advanced and you have everything you need

yes, a compression test is always good. But it won't really tell all unfortunately. I did a compression test that came out perfect. (My car was eating oil at an astronomical rate). 1 month later, one of my valves had a hole in it that I could almost fit a pencil through.

It's just an ebay grill, and an OEM trunk lid emblem

installed a new grill last night! Although I think I'm going to spray some satin or flat clear on it rather than the gloss clear I initially used. It's a bit too shiny and sticks out

For reference, carmax gave me offers above nada clean trade in for cars ive gotten quoted. Its been worth the drive for me when I've went

Paste the part that I highlighted directly into your post.

Rust? All recalls done? Maybe 11-12k is what's popping into my head, but other people may know better