Aphex28

The AVCS solenoids are actually pretty finicky. Did you replace it with a brand new one or was it a used/junkyard one?

hey I have a set of dismounted meh all seasons that I bought my car with, good tread. I think they're the Antares Ingens A1, I personally hate all seasons but I'm over in Dracut if you're interested.

My brothers 2.5 RS was towed on 2 wheels similarly many years ago. He tried to go after the tow company with no good results, granted no lawyer and such, but they said it "didn't do any damage" well 2 years later his center diff blew. Keep in mind I had the same year 2.5RS and did more miles with more hard driving on it with autox and an engine swap with my trans being perfect. I mean it's anecdotal evidence, but really there is no easy way to prove either side aside from what the manufacturer says

I'm confused. OBD code readers are $30 on amazon? There are hundreds of options including some that use bluetooth to your phone as well as the generic kind that uses a cord. I mean yeah, being able to read it on a screen in the car is nice, but for $30 it isn't worth the hassle to even research

Can't find these parts on JapanParts anymore. At least searching by part number isn't working

Only to near-ish, and I don't know if you already got it covered, but my friends shop in Pepperell, Holmes Auto http://holmesauto.net/ will always be honest with you and will do whatever you want for alignments. He doesn't have scales for corner balancing though, but I think they will be getting a new rack soon. We've done a few RSTi swaps together, including my former car

Definitely seems related to the immobilizer. You may have to check for an aftermarket remote start under the dash by the fuse box

I responded via pm!

Good point! I had Nokian WRG3 on my wife's GLI for a couple winters and they were reasonably good as a 3.5 season tire. Just that in the heat of summer, they were very squishy and the sidewalls on them did not feel sporty

I'm reasonably happy with how the General G-MAX RS I got last year were in the summer for a street tire. They're pretty much better in every respect than the Dunlop SP Sport MAXX that comes stock on WRX and STI's and I really didn't need the extra grip (and price) that the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s offered over these. In the winter I generally don't mess around and always run Blizzak/X-Ice/Wintersports on my cars. As it is, I don't like all season tires in any capacity as they're pretty much no season tires. BUT, of them, the DWS is pretty much the only one I'd buy if I were forced.

browse at http://www.knsbrakes.com or simply goto http://www.Tirerack.com I personally don't like how Hawk Street pads feel and prefer the cheaper Stoptech Street Pads in terms of street performance and initial bite. EBC OEM Pads are generally a compromise but they tend towards sacrificing brake performance and feel for lower dust and quiet operation. As for rotors, Brembo, Centric/Stoptech, DBA blanks or slotted would be fine. Best thing you can do is a good bleed with maybe some DOT 4 fluid.

Located in Dracut, MA. Willing to meet up within 30 minutes, otherwise will ship at buyer's expense. SOLD SOLD SOLD Racecomp Engineering Black Lowering Springs They're in great condition, not completely sure on miles but there isn't many. Fits 10-13 LGT and 3.6R according to Rallysport Direct https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/rco-rg275-lg10-racecomp-engineering-lowering-springs#confirmed_fitment Drop Height Front: 0.8in Drop Height Front Metric: 20mm Drop Height Rear: 0.8in Drop Height Rear Metric: 20mm Spring Rate Front: 240lbs/in Spring Rate Front Metric: 4.2Kg/mm Spring Rate Rear: 245lbs/in

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc I use this site when shopping for used tires to see what sizes won't change the speedo by more than 1%

Weird, it took almost no effort for me

Very common thing to happen to this engine in particular

I'd say the 15+ version since it hinges on running lines to the turbo inlet, which on the 15 wrx is in the same place as ours. On the LGT it's under the intake manifold like all other EJ's. There just may be differences in running the lines for the crank case breathers, but so long as you understand what the can is supposed to be doing, and what systems it's supposed to intercept, it's pretty straightforward with the only complication being where exactly to run the lines.

Poo gt-1s! Nice!

Compression test is easy enough as well. That should tell you if you have bent valves

friendly bump!~

That was me

I keep saying this on most misfire/hesitation loss threads, but boost leaks can be a large cause for issues. Also, I'm not sure if it applies to these LGT's as well, but I do know the turbo EJ motors in imprezas are sensitive to lightweight flywheels and the ECU will throw misfire codes if they are too much lighter than stock. Do you know the weight of your flywheel? For my STI swap in my 2.5rs I didn't go lighter than a 15.5 lb flywheel due to this. My friend had a 12lb flywheel that would throw misfires.

I have like 3 different ones, the things are so cheap now a days, it really doesn't matter. All 3 work across all of the cars I have so I'm not sure about the finicky-ness you're talking about. So long as they're working to the OBD2 standard, they should all work the same. The only difference is that some cars have more accessibility and customizability through the CANBUS functions. Subaru does not really have any of those functions.

Selling the Invidia Downpipe that came with my car. It is a DIY Catted & Resonated Invidia Catless Downpipe. *shrug* it worked. The Bad/Meh: But it looks like one of the previous owners of my car went the cheap DIY route and modified an Invidia Catless downpipe, put in a magnaflow resonator and high flow catalytic converter. It's got some pretty crap welds, and they didn't really clean them up after putting them on. The bracket that holds it up and bolts up to the mount by the transmission is broken off and there are sizeable dents in both the cat and resonator from smashing on the ground because the car was dumbly low. I will also note, that they put the cat in a bad place since on hard acceleration it contacts with the subframe under the engine and you can feel a slight rumble under your feet. On a third note, keep in mind, as I said the bracket is broken off, so all of the weight of the downpipe is resting on your turbo and the rear exhaust hangers by your muffler. The Good: It works for a stage 2 *shrug*. It also has an O2 spacer/defouler on it so that your rear oxygen sensor won't be throwing P0420 codes (In theory) I will include a gasket and *ok* hardware to attach the 2 pieces together I replaced this with a real Invidia Catted Downpipe. I'm asking $180+shipping an absolutely bargain basement price I'm located in Dracut, MA. I'm willing to meet up within 30-45 minutes drive away.

Most commonly, it's either an issue with your brakes or it could be your wheel bearing on that side. Either one should be pretty obvious when you look/shake

Yeah I got this leak tester and hook it up to my turbo inlet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0825WNGP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Found out that the charge pipe connection to the intercooler was leaking like crazy even if I tightened it a lot. I had to line the intercooler flange with electrical tape to get it to seal okay. But I did not have any hesitation like you. Either way, this may be the only other plausible explanation other than the spark system. TD Boost error may help, but my tuner did say that it wasn't completely abnormal for it to go +/- 1.5 depending on atmospheric conditions