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norutah

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Posts posted by norutah

  1. Damn. Not in utah anymore. Mine doesn't seem to have much play but is showing some weird wear marks on it that I think is from it smacking around.

     

    Had you already done the rear spacers? I'm assuming no chance of doing the sti linkage without doing this?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I did it all at once. Interestingly, once I had the outback linkage and shifter out of the car I compared the STI shifter with the outback and a legacy. The STI was almost identical to the outback but nowhere close to the legacy. STI to outback from fulcrum to bottom of ball was <.25 longer and approximately .125 shorter from fulcrum to top of threads. Comparing the STI to the GT the STI was >.50 longer from fulcrum to ball. I might put the STI shifter back in because the STI linkage and Cobb adjustable shifter together make it pretty stiff. Yes it's rediculously short between gears

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  2. Sure. I got the info from here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42601850&postcount=15

     

     

    Our stock coolant hose should be P/N 14472AA091 whereas for the vf52, I understand we should use 99078AA450. I just purchased the latter.

    I do remember when I rebuilt my engine, I was having a hard time reattaching that hose. In retrospect, I can tell it was in fact a little too short. And given that the hose is 17 years old, the leak does not surprise me.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Yeah, I've been meticulously keeping an eye on BtSsm when I drive and I can see the creeping too. Different hose than you but still, same problem I believe especially given the amount of dried coolant I noticed close to the leak.

    I'll probably continue to use the blue valvoline Zerex coolant.

    Thanks, I'm VF52 and I've been chasing a coolant leak. Just a few drops on my up pipe

     

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  3. Thanks man. One more question :redface:. Which coolant have you been using?

     

     

     

    On a side note, I just discovered that the return coolant line from my turbo has been leaking. Been smelling coolant for a while in the engine bay. Maybe, that was a small contributor to coolant temps easily climbing when I was pushing the car. Just learned that since I have a VF52, I should use a slightly longer return line instead of the one for our VF40. Just purchased it.

    Slightly longer coolant return? Details please

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  4. Hi guys, I'm having a hard time trying to find aftermarket parts for the 2020 Legacy+.

     

     

     

    Does anyone have any websites they use for aftermarket parts for the 2020+legacys?

     

     

     

    Looking for suspension mods or lip kits. etc...

    Need to know if you are you looking to raise? Lower? Just improve the handling and ride? Flatout GRLite coilovers have an integrated 2" lift if that is the route you are going

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  5. Hi all,

     

    I'm sure you've all heard that nice muted thud sound that luxury cars like Lexus and BMW doors make when closing. They have an expensive sound to it if that makes sense. I'm sure it's all in the rubber door seals, so I'm just wondering if it's possible to achieve this kind of sound in a liberty and how I would go about that?

     

    Is there some sort of aftermarket door seals that anyone is aware of that are better quality? Or would replacing them with new OEM seals help? The car is quite old so I assume it sounded better when the car was new, before the seals wore out.

     

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

    New seals if they're worn will help. Noise deadening material inside the door and under the door panel will give you the most bang for the buck. I like siless personally but a lot of people use dynomat or even Grace's ice and water shield. Once you've applied some to the doors you can add some to the body under the carpet and interior panels. If you're up to the task of dropping your headliner this is where you'll really benefit. Your roof is essentially a giant drum head.

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  6. Subframe spacer removal with a few upgrades.

    New driveshaft; STI short shift linkage; COBB adjustable short shifter; front and rear COBB shifter bushings; Cusco version 2 lower arm bar; grimmspeed up pipe; turbosmart comp gate 40 EWG; whiteline trans brace bushings; STI steering linkage.

    Car handles night and day different. I have a few key pieces leftover if anyone is looking to tackle this job HMU.

    c1672a5d781a6d03b991becfffc97e3a.jpg987f8d3cee647cffa87ec139f5c994ba.jpga562f3876f75e501f0aac00c8a9ab506.jpga365cfdb3f8f2cca11d54e1ea92082fd.jpgb775ff0f5cb98c650e3e4c46c2db6eb2.jpge82f848bcc3f1a17b9b1e7aca541c125.jpga4c929ce5a2494156b062426f8d311d8.jpg

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  7. Heres what I found out so far....I will had the part number and picture from my car later. Now I need to source parts!!!

     

     

    In this picture number 1-2 needs to be removed and number 4-6-7-29-33 need to be changed with GT parts

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120003.png

     

    In this picture number 14-15-17-5 need to be change with GT parts

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120101.png

     

    In this picture number 7-11-13-17-19 need to be changed to GT parts

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120102.png

     

    In this picture number number 2-10 need to be changed with GT parts

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495141002.png

     

    In this picture number 4 need to be changed to GT part

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495119901.png

     

    In this picture number 1 need to be change to GT part

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495134701.png

     

    In this picture number 8-24 need to be change to GT parts

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495135001.png

     

    It seem that number 32 needs to be changed but I think it simply the hangers that need to be shorten but I am not sure!!!

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495144005.png

     

    In this picture number 3 seems to need to be change with GT part but may still fit.

    http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495157204.png

    Replying to this to put it where I need it to finish up tomorrow so I don't have to search for it everything every time

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  8. I also disabled my DRL by unplugging the white connector at the module. My switchback running/turn receive power and signal from OEM park/turn. Quad projectors wired together so low beam only or high beam/low beam together with high beam onc5ff152a0c398ca9063af8816791b53e.jpg9598a2a7dc56e7883e51b0bcafaefdb0.jpg

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  9. flush cutter helps a bunch with that. $10

     

    https://smile.amazon.com/Cutter-Lightweight-Klein-Tools-D275-5/dp/B000GTMZHG

     

    "I primarily use mine to cut zip-ties, they cut very smoothly and if held flush against the Tie they will leave No sharp edge! "

    Having flush cuts and an 18yo that is also a car enthusiast rarely last. I can't have anything nice. Latest tool victimized was my klein strippers/cutters. I attempted to use them on this install and it appears they were used to cut something that was not copper. I'm teaching him but there is still work to do [emoji1787]

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  10. Hi, I am a newbie having just aquired my 2004 4th generation Legacy SE N 2.5i AWD.

    Having come to the Legacy from a Citroen C5 I find the ride is much firmer as expected but almost too harsh over small bumps, eg catseyes, so I wondered whether it is possible and sensible to swap my 215/45/17 wheels for some 215/55/16 wheels to give me higher sidewalls and therefore hopefully take the edge off the ride. Any comment or advice would be welcome. Cheers Mick

    My 225/55/17 ride softer than my 235/35/18. Use an online tire conversion calculator that compares your two sizes and shows you the difference in width, radius, diameter, and offset then get under your car and measure to see if they will fit and clear spring perch wheel well etc.

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  11. I’m not exactly sure what details I should post, I just now go the TOAD software installed on my laptop and I don’t have my car back from being repaired yet.
    You posted in the legacy photos section. Did you post a photo and I am not seeing it on mobile? I understand you want to know how to clear codes with TOAD. Here is a walk thru and video, I hope it helps you out.

    https://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/toad/

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  12. Haha I knew all of that but rr and I lived in utah for a while. That's sweet I didn't realize there was a retrofitter there.

     

    I'd like to do my own but it's lower priority. Suspension and then the bmw. I wonder if they make a drop in kit for the high beam, didn't realize there was something that would fit in there. Not that I'd looked much yet.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Low beam was drop in, high beam took a ton of work per the builder. He said facelift is a lot of trimming but pre face was even worse

     

    Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

  13. Those look amazing! BTW what does this mean, lol: "RR in orem did the work." and this: "switchback DRL turns in new depot assemblies" depot? Am I just getting old?

     

     

     

    Perfect timing, after you posted pics with the hood scoop and horrible front head light fogging.

     

     

     

    How much wiring junk did you have to deal with? I dislike all the wires and boxes with my Morimotos.

     

     

     

    32290242557_08183da74f_c.jpg

    I also had quite a bit of wiring. I generally unpin harnesses, cut to length, and repin but I was concerned with morimoto's warranty so I bundled it up like you did. 09c014a33c18a470e3402480269f7c1e.jpga302898562eb43933817c3ec9feffcb0.jpg

     

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