norutah

$3k for parts/labor on a gear box just to get a sticker......seems legit. [emoji38]

$3k for a strong trans and a sticker sounds fair, or I could spend it on a shiny new set of wheels I guess. Do the wheels come with a sticker too?

 

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i collect 5mt and 6mt. there's no new 6mt being made, so its a limited supply pool.

 

zf transmission in Colorado is probably your best bet for a customized 6mt

I was considering a built 5 Mt or a stock 6mt. You collect 6mt? Any for sale?

 

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Dont forget Ralispec in NJ.

 

curious what kind of power you are making or type of driving you are doin in an outback XT to warrant that level of gearset.

I was back on the rollers to adjust for EWG last week @turbolab made 380 tq. Backed off to 350 and the car was very happy there, backed off again to 330/320 and left it for now.

What kind of driving? If I had to label it I'd say teenager with no concept of mechanical limits.

Warranting stronger trans? Pay now or pay later I guess.

 

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Starting to consider a PPG gear set for my 5mt or a built 5mt or a 6mt swap.

My car is a 2005 OB XT. I'm in northern Utah and I'll travel a decent distance or pay freight. What's out there?

 

Added: I'd buy a blown up 6mt car if the price was right

 

 

 

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I've noticed a couple newer owners and/or members in the PNW are pop up on the forums. I'd really like to get together with some of the guys on here in a central location.

 

Unfortunately, I haven't heard any news on the annual Wagonfest that takes place up here.

I think we would consider a pilgrimage to wagonfest

 

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Just bumping this thread hoping to find a SpecB owner who is willing to take a pic of their strut tower for me. The gap in mine has been nagging me. I have looked at a bunch of engine shots from SpecB's and it kind of looks like the gap is not there. But, none of the pictures really show it very well so who knows.

 

 

 

Or maybe someone already knows right off the top of their head... are SpecB strut tower holes a little different than regular LGT's?

My wife's wagon has bilstein with spec b top hats. The gap is identical to yours. I doubt the spec b trim and gt trim would have different strut towers but you never know [emoji2369]

 

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PMs replied.

 

Lots of interest in the CF hood scoop, with about 9 people in line while I wait for first person to reply. I will release their spot in 2 hours and will contact the next person.

Thanks everyone for being patient, I'm trying to be fair to everyone.

As next in line I replied with PayPal info

 

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Just going to lower it with the legacy bc coils for now and hope I don't get any binding at max height with kart boy end links. You're the first to mention it and it's a worthy mention for this thread.

 

Decided can't risk having something go wrong (always does) and being without a vehicle. Would appreciate the list though for future reference.

 

 

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*•*901000304 (4) Front suspension Crossmember Bolt

• 901000252 (4) Rear suspension Crossmember Bolt

• 20157AG00A Rear suspension Crossmember or (2) 20176AG06A Suspension crossmember stop lower

• 20176AE01A9E (4) Suspension crossmember stop upper

*•*59020AG11C catalytic converter heat shield

*•*20250AG040 left rear spec b UCA

*•*20250AG050 right rear spec b UCA

*•*20501AG04A left rear bump stop

*•*20501AG03A right rear bump stop

*•*901370009 (2) front LCA bushing stud

*•*41011AE100 (1) Cross Member Complete

*•*20540AE090 Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side

*•*20540AE080 Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side

*•*W63398 whiteline rear trailing arm front bushing from RSD

*•*41011AE020 (1) Engine Mount Crossmember (Front)

*•*34170FG011 STI solid steering joint

*•*D1010FE020 Group n trans mount

*•*KDT901 whiteline Front Gearbox - Crossmember Pad Bushing

*•*C1010FL050 STI legacy short throw shifter for linkage

*•*224315 cobb adjustable short throw shifter

*•*211320 cobb front shifter bushing

*•*211330 cobb rear shifter bushing

*•*211350 cobb shift knob

*•*684-477A Cusco Front lower arm bar Type II (no longer need 20216AG08B and 20216AG09B Plate Arm NMLRH) from sparkteck

*•*26212-1292955 from driveshaft store.

 

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Norutah that makes sense. I'm planning to put on the legacy bc coils and supposedly that's a minimum of 2" below legacy. That's really my concern. Otherwise I was going to put off the spacers until I needed a new drive shaft. Which I'm pretty sure I don't need yet.

 

 

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FWIW with 235/40/18 on mine and my Son's daily outback on stocks I am 4.25" lower than him at all 4 wheel arches except his passenger rear which sits .5" higher than any other corner on his car.

 

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So as you went lower you needed shorter end links? I guess the sway bar raises up a half inch when you remove the spacers since it's attached to the subframes. So you're still using the whiteline adjustable ones then.

 

Kinda crazy that we are 15 years in to figuring this out lol.

 

 

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For my setup I did to get no preload because that is what I was trying to get to. I'm still running the WL adjustable rears (adjusted full short to get no preload) until they fail. I switched to kartboy solid links up front after one end of one WL link seized at a few thousand miles causing a clunk. Unrelated but related... I tried messing with preloading one corner and also tried adjusting one coilover to get rid of the side to side leaning. I was never successful but after removing the spacers it no longer leans side to side. I'm not sure if it was related or just dumb luck. It's possible the leaning was caused by tightened pivot points while the suspension was not loaded during previous owner's maintenance or repairs

 

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I asked goggle as well. And then I heard a different view from you and asked for more info

https://www.google.com/search?q=clutch+makes+noise+when+not+pressed&sxsrf=ALeKk02BE7ENtnV0-uiBLNYvwrOd5gS8pg%3A1621264343119&ei=14eiYLnSBtD--wT--4qYAw&oq=clutch+makes+nice&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAEYAjIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIGCAAQDRAeMgYIABANEB4yBggAEA0QHjoECAAQRzoHCCMQ6gIQJzoECAAQQzoHCC4QsQMQQzoFCAAQkQI6BQgAELEDOgIIAFCJ-gFY7pECYKWuAmgCcAF4AYABrAeIAYsNkgEJMC4zLjEuNi0xmAEAoAEBsAEPyAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

 

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So possible input shaft bearing?

 

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I asked goggle as well. And then I heard a different view from you and asked for more info

https://www.google.com/search?q=clutch+makes+noise+when+not+pressed&sxsrf=ALeKk02BE7ENtnV0-uiBLNYvwrOd5gS8pg%3A1621264343119&ei=14eiYLnSBtD--wT--4qYAw&oq=clutch+makes+nice&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAEYAjIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIECAAQDTIGCAAQDRAeMgYIABANEB4yBggAEA0QHjoECAAQRzoHCCMQ6gIQJzoECAAQQzoHCC4QsQMQQzoFCAAQkQI6BQgAELEDOgIIAFCJ-gFY7pECYKWuAmgCcAF4AYABrAeIAYsNkgEJMC4zLjEuNi0xmAEAoAEBsAEPyAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

 

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Looking at the parts and everything and parts.subaru.com has changed and opposed forces are missing some parts numbers.

 

Did you pull all the parts from the donor car you had or did you buy them? Trying to confirm part numbers for the bolts for the front and rear crossmembers. They appear to be the same?

 

 

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I went to the junkyard for some of it and Subaru for some of it. I have a list if you need it. I also have some parts leftover if you need them. Rear bolts, 2 of the upper cup washers that replace the rear spacers, the two rear lower cup washers that replace the spare well brace (I used a legacy spare well brace) shift linkage, steering linkage, front LCA stud plates.

 

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That's interesting and really important. Needs to get pinned somewhere. I had "0.9" drop Teins on Konis and was pretty happy, but I knew the ride quality vs full compression event compromise meant nice ride, but you will get 100% into the bump stops. I spent a ton of hours researching progressive bump stops for this reason but never pulled the trigger on any. A shorter shock body, like the coil overs usually have, would given more room for ride compliance. But not that much! just another half inch.

 

 

 

So a good "rule of thumb" for the Outback might be a max of 1-1.25" lower than LGT before spacer removal is recommended/required. Yes? Agree?

I think 1" max lower than legacy would be a good number. Also worth mentioning, when I first installed the whiteline bars they had a lot of preload with outback endlinks. Switching to adjustable endlinks corrected this. I started with whiteline adjustable front and rear and they were at the shortest setting while the suspension was loaded to get no bar preload. As I mentioned before, as I went lower they became loaded again and eventually was loading the bars and fighting suspension bind and axle plunge angle. This is all in theory, except the sway bar loading which I could tell by the bolt passing thru the link and bar.

 

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Let's think about this,

 

The clutch disc is splined to the tranny input shaft.

 

In neutral, foot off the clutch pedal, the clutch disc is not spinning as the input shaft is free to stop spinning with the crankshaft, remember the pilot bearing supports the front of the input shaft.

 

The Pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel and always spins when the engine is running.

 

With your foot off the clutch pedal the PP is putting pressure in the clutch disc forcing it to spin the input shaft.

The TOB is not spinning at that time.

 

So when you push on the clutch pedal which forces the TOB to release the clamping pressure on the clutch disc allowing the input shaft to stop spinning.

 

I don't know if the cocktail of tranny fluid, look up "uncle scotty's cocktail"

I think I'm following. So, not the TOB?

 

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My suspicions were confirmed. I believed at ~1.5" front drop on legacy coilovers I was binding the suspension and loading the FSB. I suspected this because when I decreased the lower spring seat .25 to go from 1.25 drop to 1.5 drop the wheel arch measurement did not change and the ride quality suffered. When I removed the subframe spacers the front end is lower and the ride quality is back. Front wheel arch center to ground on 235/40/18 is now 24.875 whereas before subframe spacer removal I was 25.375. now the rear needs to come down an inch. Ideally I would like to get it on corner scales someday

 

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Boxkita was pretty smart about pills too.

 

 

 

grab their mouth and lever it open, jam the pill as far down their throat as you can, close their mouth and hold it shut. you have to hold on until they gulp. it helps to stroke their neck too. it was traumatizing every time, for all of us.

Our first Dane was against taking medication too. We had the most success with a glob of peanut butter

 

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Save your money and do it yourself. Last time I was at Ram they tried to charge me $1500 for a 65k service to turn off my 65k service dash light. 65k service for a 2015 Cummins is fluids/tire rotation/chassis lube/brake and belt inspection and PCV filter. They were trying to perform a service applicable thru model year 2012. When I confronted the service manager he said "you can do the service on your truck, it won't hurt anything and I recommend it to everyone" I said you can put a new motor in it, it won't hurt anything, and you can recommend it to anyone, Give me my keys. How many owners has he conned into additional service work?

 

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Hi all,

 

I think I may have a bad input shaft bearing. It makes a rattling sound which only stops when I press the clutch in. Does anyone know if there's a way that I can stop or reduce the noise temporarily until I can get it fixed? I don't have a whole lot of knowledge in this area but would a thicker trans fluid help?

Sounds like it may be that your TOB is shot and continued use may damage the snout. If corrected early enough, an oversized TOB and snout repair sleeve is possible. Eventually it can damage snout beyond repair. This is just my opinion, hopefully some of the more knowledgeable members will post up for you

 

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A couple of Danes doing Dane stuff. Little girl is Grace, big boy is Miloh

 

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What you guys are saying sounds like it would make sense, however having layered my doors with 1 layer of:

 

-Noico 80 mil deadener

-Noico 150 mil closed cell foam and

-1lb mass loaded vinyl

 

I can say it made no perceptible difference in the sound of the door closing.

 

Dang discouraging [emoji1787]

 

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Did you compare the shift arm mechanism by chance? I'm curious if an Outback version is a cheaper alternative to the subaru sti 5MT version.

 

I'm referring to part number C1010FL050.

Within 1/8 of the outback linkage. I can't recall which was longer. I have the STI shifter still as I used the Cobb shifter. STI shifter with outback linkage hybrid?

 

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i have a lifted outback that could use a new home. It was being made into a off-road machine. Might be easier to start with a rig already there and add finishing details. It needs a new shortblock as current one failed its 1000 mile breakin.

Does this lifted outback happen to be an XT?

 

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I got the solid U joint as well. best $20 i ever spent on it, I had the Perrin piece and it did the job but i want it to feel more connected and no rubber bushing between. Ill put the perrin piece on my Daughters OBXT.

I just did the STI link on the outback (subframe spacers removed) wish it was $20 but still the best $60 I've spent

 

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Sheesh, then i might just lower the damn thing..

 

 

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As many others will testify, the outback is far from ideal at speed. Lifting a legacy without all of the outback pieces will likely multiply the effect.

 

I'll give you a quick opinion on the stages my outback suspension went thru. Mind you, I prefer a much quicker pace. Apologies for the long read but I believe to lift your legacy properly you are going to go thru most of the work I did (in reverse) to lower an outback properly. Lowering your legacy and improving handling/performance will be much easier but at the end of the day it needs to suit your needs.

 

Beginning with 225/55/17

Stock-scary due to ghost walking and roll.

 

King rear springs- ghost walking gone and rear felt a little more planted.

 

Legacy KYB with Legacy wagon front and King rear and rear spec b UCA and bump stops- probably the best touring feel out of all. Planted but still had some roll.

 

Added front/rear whiteline bars and links and ADF rear sway bar bracket support- much less roll. A little less independent bump control.

 

Aluminum front LCAs, prothane bushings and new OEM balljoints- front end felt tight and responsive.

 

GT brake swap- complete caliper rebuild. New pistons/hardware/soft goods and powder coat. New rotors-it stops now but needs more tire.

 

Added Cusco front power brace crossmember support and super pro diff mount insert and STI pitch stop- I knew the cusco member was there and it was pretty blue so it's better. The diff inserts reduced the squat under load out back and the pitch stop reduced transfer up front.

 

STI tuned bilstein BSS 1" drop- things are starting to get real at this point. Car still rides incredible but handling was night and day.

 

235/40/18-obvious less sidewall flex so better cornering more road feedback, better grip.

 

Coilovers down another .5" and kartboy front endlinks because one of the whiteline was binding- very responsive but I was at the point where I was fighting CV and control arm angle and preloading the sway bars due to the subframe spacers.

 

RB slotted 2 piece front rotors/ slotted rear rotors-stops incredibly well on street pads.

 

Subframe spacers removed-added Cusco version II arm bar/STI steering linkage/group n trans mount- just getting into test drives but all the weird things it did before are gone. It does what you expect. It doesn't move side to side on expansion joints. The steering is tight. The ride is back to where it was with 1" drop because sways are not preloaded. It still needs an alignment but it really is fun to drive. Again, I know there is a new blue piece under there so better[emoji2369].

 

I'm sure I've used incorrect handling terminology throughout this post because I'm just a guy that likes to drive fast thru canyons

 

 

 

 

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