Nonamedude

I had to replace my optima red top last year. The old one had a sticker on it from 06. I'm assuming that means it was 14 years old? But that can't be right can it? The new one also has a sticker that says 20. Do batteries last that long?

Lol not usually. Cheap ones seem to be about 3 in my experience. Good ones it seems 7+ isn't uncommon. I got a duralast agm. Wasn't too expensive and if you remember the warranty you get a new one free every 3 years.

Also yes that's what the stickers mean.

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Did some car cleaning yesterday. Basic stuff. Vacuuming, wiping dash, doors, console. Came out today and car was dead. Too dead for my emergency jump pack. Figure battery was nearly three years so go grab a new one, when I go to turn it on see the little parking light switch is flipped on... well that's annoying.

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Oh I forgot about this. Never received the turbo blanket

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It does seem strange that you have to wait 25 years to import one. In the UK, anything under 10 years old has to have an SVA test prior to being registered, older than 10 years old, just a standard MOT for registration.

Of course, the Government gets the import duty and VAT on any vehicle you bring in and this has to be paid before they release the car from the docks!

 

On a side note, the TBSTI also came with push button start (from 2007 onwards).

No slight meant to the UK but it's just a numbers game. The auto bail out in 08 between US and Canada totaled 85bil. When you're that big you can do things like not let us import the Fiesta you sell in the eu. Or give us the better looking bumpers.

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Spirit Lake Hwy drive for a little adventure up to Mount St. Helens, or as close as we could.

Love the hero pose. Also I swear your previous license plate was Texas.

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[attach]290571[/attach]

Ooohhhhhhhhh. I hate that little silver bit. This looks nice. How hard would it be to add the emblem? Would double sided tape effect carbon or fiberglass?

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I've been agonizing all week but I think it's time.

 

Working plan:

1. Strip subframes/drivetrain from Fjuan's sedan

2. strip subframes/drivetrain from race wagon

3. put Fjuan's sedan parts into race wagon

4. Scrap Fjuan's sedan

5. Strip subframes from my track wagon

6. mix & match race/track wagon parts

7. put race wagon on racing junk for cheap

8. commit sacrilege by driving race wagon parts on street

Unfortunately I didn't officially get his contact. It was cold and I was having a hard time thinking.

When you post it, if you're not a social media person, I can throw it on mine and promote it through my photography page. It's a business write off then lol.

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The bushings in the lgt didn't age well. Cars at 200k sound like beaters from the '70s. My wagon is at 130k. I last drove it summer 2019. The 5mt was replaced with factory new in fall 2013 and only had 1000 miles on it. First drive was incredibly noisy after driving decade newer cars. It gave me a headache in the beginning.

 

Uts been parked for two years waiting on some basic maintenance. I'd rather drive my ratty nissan hard body than the track wagon. Resale on the wagon isn't worth it. However the number of 5mt wagons continue to drop. In another decade, it should be a 1 of 10 car and might briefly sell for something near what I have in it...radwood?

Radwood could be cool.

Also if you have the race wagon long enough I'll try to bring it up at the next rally. I was hanging out with the Subaru motorsports social media director (works for vsc). He lives in Vegas and told me he used to have a 5mt lgt wagon. He or someone in his network might want it.

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http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

That's the product page to order from. I have not yet contacted him, but I think you should have no problem using his services.

Yea I got a set of lows and a set of hir bulbs for highs. He's old school and wants you to send an email and stuff but it's easy enough.

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Was boxkita running a 6spd on his race wagon? Maybe one of the race people know because all I've ever found online about the blast plates is "so and so is pushing 750hp with them" "butterfly cases flex" and "they don't do anything there's no way they could make a significant difference to any theoretical flex in the case design"

Never really found solid info on them either. Likely because most people racing just move to a 6spd and most people on the street don't run that much torque.

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I could weld the cracked piston to the side of it

Hang it from the rear view mirror.

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Any volunteers for cutting off the DP bracket and reporting back?

Mine didn't line up right or something. I don't remember but it's not connected. Still have plenty of trans noise. Rubber exhaust bushings.

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Sold!

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I'm like 99% sure ive seen these before either here or on nasioc. But the pictures are showing broken for me. Just fyi

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That decel noise was very apparent in my 07 when I was running the clutch master clutch. Once I switched back to the stock Exedy disc that noise went away. I attribute that to the stiffer hub springs. My 06 will have a WRX Exedy HD disc like my wife's Forester and that one is reasonably quiet.

 

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I've got quite a bit of noise on the stock exedy clutch. But I have group n everything and a single mass flywheel.

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Buddy is driving from Detroit to mount snow Vermont next week (like 99% sure) and willing to carry the mufflers.

Bump for a North easterner

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You've checked the drive shaft right? I'd think that'd get worse not better under power but maybe something something harmonics.

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It does it with the manual mode also, and usually 4th and 5th gear.

I think torque converter or bad valves.

Dang well officially over my head. Be interested to see what it was when it gets sorted.

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Wait, this is under the forum titled 3rd gen (2004-2009) under the section 4TH gen (2005-2009)? Which way is UP?

Third Gen outback and fourth Gen legacy are the same years. So for the most part same cars. Not exactly but close enough.

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Dirty dirty really cloudy but not glittery. Look at that buildup on the magnet....damn shop I took it to here in Vegas didnt change my fluid when they did my clutch job. Seems the fluid I'd just old and worn? Anyone can chime in please. Hope my 5 speed is still ok. Thanks for any input. [ATTACH]289968[/ATTACH][ATTACH]289969[/ATTACH][ATTACH]289970[/ATTACH]

 

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Used replacements are cheaper than a rebuild (usually) and the 5spd is solid enough it seems unless you are constantly shocking it.

I say that because there's not a good reason not to just fill it and send it. Also some metal wear isn't really abnormal. That's about what mine looked like and after 35k it's still fine. Including about 5k of that doing heavy towing.

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Masking tape over the ports. Smart. Much smarter than shop towels.

 

 

Never again...

... Was I not supposed to do that? I clearly missed a horror story lol.

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I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display.

 

The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop.

 

After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun.

 

Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways.

That's really sweet

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Took advantage of some sunlight and warmth to vacuum out all the winter crap off the floor. Wiped down the seats with some cleaner/conditioner, then finally put on the cover craft seat covers I've had since summer. Lighting was really harsh so forgive the image quality.

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I know the subie heads are notorious for the head oil drain back passage to start leaking, the thin spray of adhesive should help prevent that.

 

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My understanding is that is primarily due to the paper gaskets on the na engines. It's why the turbo motors don't have that problem so much with the MLS gaskets. And if you're using arp studs on top of that.

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It's worth having one just because the stock tune sucks.

It just seems odd to me though that it would be the trans cause shudders at low load and a specific speed. It certainly could be, I don't know much about the 5eat.

I'm mostly just trying to think through the logic. 35-40 low load should be a specific gear. If it isn't doing it in s# or I that doesn't make a lot of sense to me as that basically changes throttle tip in and boost. I'd think it would still do it in those modes. Do you have the flappy paddles? Does it do it in all gears?

There's just so many things that cause shudders in these cars. Out of balance wheels and worn steering dampers come to mind first. I've heard of worn steering dampers causing vibrations in very specific speed ranges.

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