NSFW

Plenty of software jobs up here in WA too. And OR, from what I hear.

 

I'm told that our emissions rules are the same as CA, but I honestly have no idea because enforcement is on the honor system for most of the state, and the counties that do every-two-years testing don't test very hard and don't test 09-and-later cars at all.

 

Pre-09 cars basically just get a CEL & OBD2 function check. They ask the ECU if everything is OK. For any car with a decent tune, the ECU reports that everything is OK.

 

They will use the sniffer if they can't connect to your ECU, which almost never happens... And when Tracer-X (former member here) got sniffer tested, his Stage 2 sedan passed. Catted downpipe though. I suspect that a catless car would not pass that test. But I haven't had a single sniffer test in the 20 years since I sold my carbureted VW bug.

Cobbs business model is changing. They are no longer privately owned and the coporate changes have been taking effect for some time now.

 

Who owns them now? Did they go public?

 

(I swear, you take a couple years off and suddenly everything changes. )

Who is "Delicious?"

 

Also, do Cobb's existing flex-fuel systems require an ethanol sensor?

 

I just read that some car manufacturers have stopped using ethanol sensors and instead they just estimate ethanol content based on the amount of fuel required to reach stoich. It seems too simple to work, but on the other hand, it also seems pretty elegant.

 

This is all academic for me anyway since there's no E85 in my area.

Kinda funny, kinda sad... mostly facepalm...

 

http://vancouversun.com/news/local-news/video-of-horrible-parking-job-helps-police-nab-suspected-hit-and-run-driver4

 

http://i.imgur.com/elAWG7T.gif

Its an RPM/load. 2.5k to 3k with a slight incline usually triggers it. None of my own cars have ever shown the stumble. But I have lots of logs showing it happen in customers cars.

 

Which parameter(s) show the stumble in logs?

 

My car had a tiny amount of stumble so I didn't look into it much. But I see so much discussion of it, I can't help but be curious.

 

Mine went away completely with a new motor but that's a prohibitively expensive way to tackle the problem.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMAYUuNRQNg]Turn your phone 90 degrees - YouTube[/ame]

It's less about the walls and more about the base - I don't want the bottom to crack off if I ever try to pull it out.

I just uploaded my air-box plug to thingiverse. If I was smart, I would have taken a picture before I buttoned up the car. But there is a picture of the part prior to installation.

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1543320

So you are talking something like this? Obviously more refined but I just wanted to see if this is along the lines of what you were talking about.

 

That's the basic idea. However I was picturing the tombstone part being flat, so it would be easy to make other parts that mate up to it.

Given a choice, I'd rather have the vent part with a simple tombstone sort of thing sticking up in the back, with a screw-hole or two in it. Then do 1/2/3-gauge pods, cell phone cradles, radar detector cradles, etc, separately.

Well that exceeded expectations.

I don't have any bright ideas, but I salute whoever made that.

 

Really clever exhaust, too. It just begs for a diffuser with deep fins... it could be quite a bit more diffusier than the diffusers made to accommodate the stock mufflers on our cars.

How far is that mounting hole from the side of the cylinder? I can clone that part too, to hold it in place...

Thanks! I'm pretty sure the larger-diameter section is what's important. Will print one and see.

Does anyone on this thread have the resonator bottle from their air intake sitting around?

 

I bought an Outback that had the resonator removed and I want to print a cap to plug the hole on the underside of the intake box. But it's a PITA to remove the air box and a bigger PITA to access it from below to take measurements. And my LGT's stock airbox went into the trash years ago.

 

So I was hoping someone could measure the diameter and depth of the part that fits into the stock airbox. In return I'll put a model of the plug/cap on thingiverse for free.

 

Thanks!

If you're interested in selling them, I'm interested in buying one.

 

Is the vent+pod all one piece, or do the vent part and pod part get printed separately?

I'm still using the starter from my 05. I wonder what's different.

 

dahoseman...

 

You should be fine with any clutch that was made for a 6-speed STi transmission. So if that's what you mean by "OEM take off" then yes.

 

I don't know about the axle seal part numbers, I don't think the 'new' numbers existed when I did my swap.

 

The clutch hose connects the master cylinder (which the clutch pedal operates on) to the slave cylinder (which operates the throwout bearing).

 

I think I bought a spec B short-shift kit that came with a bunch of shifter-related parts... but I don't remember for sure as I did this all a few years ago.

Ah ok that is rather different So basically you are programming it whereas I am modeling it. God I hate programming lol

 

Programming has been a hobby of mine since junior high, so OpenScad was pretty appealing to me.

 

Some things are simpler than regular modeling software, but some things are a lot harder. The strut brace was pretty straightforward. But if you want one circle to be tangent to another circle... that turns into homework problems from hell. I'm suspect that could be made easy with some clever scripting, but I haven't achieved that yet.

 

I mostly use Cubify Design for more complex stuff (formerly known as Geomagic Design, and Alibre Design). It's pretty sweet for $150. Also been experimenting with Autodesk Fusion 360 which is equally capable, and free, I just don't like the UI as much as Cubify.

I'd look at it for you and clean it up but I can't open the .scad file in CATIA :/

 

 

Scad files are for OpenScad: http://www.openscad.org/

 

It's a very different approach to 3D modeling than most software. You basically just write a script (using the built-in text editor) which generates the model by combining primitive geometric shapes.

 

The models produced by my .scad files are just fine, by the way. The scripts are just not as elegant as I would have liked. But once I got the parts I wanted, I lost interest in tidying up the scripts. I've got too many other projects I should be working on instead.

In red ABS now...

 

I'll put the files on Thingiverse, but note that the STL files are best used for the carbon-wrapped strut bar. The fit on the raw aluminum bar shown here is OK, but could be improved a little. I'll put the openscad files up as well.

 

Uploaded:

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1428733

 

I was going to clean up the .scad files since they're pretty ugly, but... oh well.

Bummer. Thanks for trying, though!

Today I purchased what I think is a plug and play solution to the tgv female connector for a clean install. I believe turkeylord discovered this a while ago. I will report back once this arrives and whether it actually fits.

 

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/2107

 

Did they fit?

 

I'm itching to make a wiring harness, and these would be great... if they fit.

"If it's not loud, it doesn't work!"

-- Blank Reg, from "Max Headroom"

 

Best TV show ever.

-- Me

I'd be concerned about heat from the brakes deforming the ducts... Brakes can get crazy hot, and the whole point of 3D printing materials it that they turn into putty when heated.

 

That said, there's probably plenty of good ways to print the front portion of the duct and then use conventional duct material for the last foot or so. Or print something to interface a regular duct hose with the bumper / fog-light / etc.