NSFW

If you try to power something from the TGV connector I'm pretty sure you could very easily fry something in the ECU.

The TGV sensor connector was only intended to provide a tiny amount of current, so the traces on the circuit board are probably correspondingly tiny, and so is every component in the chain from the 5v regulator to that connector. And if I'm wrong about that stuff, then you might just fry the regulator itself instead.

WBO2 sensors have a heating element that will draw a lot of power. Plus they need 12 volts which makes this a non-starter anyway.

I bought an 05 OBXT a little while back.

With the Hexmods valve body... if I put the trans in automanual mode, and bump the shift lever up or down, or press the shift buttons on the wheel, how much time elapses before the transmission actually shifts?

Except that when tube-frame race cars are the entire market for race engines, those engines, and any of their parts, are going to cost a fortune.

Even the small Subaru aftermarket has huge volume as compared to dedicated race cars, and it's what makes performance parts affordable.

It's not the end of the world though. We'll still have racing, and track days, the cars just won't have power mods. Not that I am even remotely fond of this idea, mind you. But it if happens, it happens.

In red ABS now...

I'll put the files on Thingiverse, but note that the STL files are best used for the carbon-wrapped strut bar. The fit on the raw aluminum bar shown here is OK, but could be improved a little. I'll put the openscad files up as well.

A couple puns came up in my Facebook feed today about the "militia" guys occupying the building in Oregon:

Y'all Queda.

Vanilla ISIS.

I snickered.

Nice thread, everybody!

A few years ago I bought a cheap strut bar from ebay, just to mount some stuff in my engine bay. think this is the same part, though I think mine cost $40 at the time:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-UP-STRUT-TOWER-BAR-FOR-SUBARU-LEGACY-JDM-STI-STYLE-/360029589035?hash=item53d36f8e2b:g:1iEAAOSwl9BWJMHm&vxp=mtr

Then I drilled some holes in it and mounted an air/oil separator, and then a fuel pressure regulator.

Then I found the same thing but wrapped in carbon fiber. I'm kind of enamored with carbon fiber bling, so I bought one from a member here. But I didn't want to drill it, so it sat, waiting for me to think up a way to mount stuff without drilling. 3D printing to the rescue, of course. I bought a MendelMax 2 a while back... My printer has some issues with accuracy on the Y axis - probably my own fault but I can't figure it out. However it is working well enough for prototyping, and I finally started on this project last week.

I have parts printed in PLA now, but I'm not confident this stuff will hold up, so I want to get them printed in ABS on a printer that can print things with straight sides.

I've attached a picture of what I have so far - I still need a bolt to hold everything together but I'll get that this week.

I'm doing the modeling in OpenScad, and I'll put stuff on thingiverse when I'm a little happier with the results. The parts I've made so far are sized for the carbon-wrapped bar, but it will be easy to tweak them to work with the raw metal bar.

The middle part is specific to the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but it should be easy enough to make parts that mount anything else. I might make one for a manual boost controller next since I need to relocate mine anyway.

The "Home Alone" kid grows up. Sort of.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh7-wAy_8ss]:DRYVRS Ep. 1 "Just Me In The House By Myself" starring Macaulay Culkin - YouTube[/ame]

I'm pretty sure this is a cover, but I can't figure out why it's so famililar... I shall award 1 thousand internet points to whoever can name the original version, and the artist who did the original:

Karma. So much karma....

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tufnWwV2J5I]BAIT BIKE IN THE HOOD PRANK - YouTube[/ame]

'Maxi-Pad Bandit' caught after feminine hygiene product disguise fails:

http://www.usatoday.com/videos/news/2632390400001/4535692886001/

45 minutes of morbid hilarity from a crotch-rocket-riding emergency medical tech who worked Isle of Man races.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsZBXlTHPCg]~ R.I.P. ~ Dr. ♣ John Hinds ✜ . . . ✔ The_Fastest Road Racing Doctor ✔ - YouTube[/ame]

"This is Michael Dunlop again, and you can see how close he's coming to that stone wall. Wheelieing at 100 miles an hour, leaned over, looking up the road. But you can see someone's taped a straw bale to the wall. So, that's fine. That's safe enough. That's legit."

"I had two crashes in supermoto. And this same guy has ridden over me on both occasions."

"Andrew Courtney fell off, Davey Morgan ran him over. Both riders were fine, apart from Andrew Courtney's boxing fracture, which he developed in this... sort of post-race analysis here. A top tip would be, don't punch someone with a motorcycle helmet on him."

"Steve was also fine. But he had a few fractures that needed to be attended to."

"We had a fairly good idea that Herbie's pelvis was broken, from the mechanism of the accident. And the fact that he said to us, 'f**k, my pelvis is broken.'"

And there's stuff like:

"Sometimes we see patients within the first seconds of the dying process, and this is just one such chap. [....] He rode straight into the end of the pit wall, at about 130 miles an hour. [....] We were on scene within 10 seconds of the impact, and he was dead. He was in traumatic cardiac arrest. [...] This guy is now back running his own business."

I have this exact gauge in the car wired to my passenger side TGVs. I use 2.375x + 7.613835. From my experience, trying to calibrate it with the front O2 is hard due to the delay and the slow response of the front o2. I had better results moving the Front O2 into the down pipe but it was still off a bit.

Good point about moving the stock front O2 sensor into the downpipe before making comparisons. The stock location (pre-turbo) makes it inaccurate under boost.

On the other hand, if you can get the WBO2 to match the stock sensor at idle and read what the manufacturer expects when you lift the throttle (16:1 or 20:1 or whatever) that should be enough to get the multiplier and offset correct. Since it's a linear equation, two points should be all you need. That said, the further apart your known values are, the better.

And to whoever asked about TGV deletes and cold starts, mine has been tested down to low-single-digit farenheit, and the car starts fine.

So it doesn't really need to be much farther down the downpipe than the bellmouth? I thought I read the AEM sensor, and innovate for that matter, are supposed to be ~2ft from the turbo.

Keep in mind that AEM is assuming that the turbo is located just inches from the exhaust ports, because most turbos are mounted right at the exhaust manifold's collector. Subaru turbos are two or three feet downstream of the exhaust ports, so most of us put our WBO2 into bungs that are right on the bellmouth.

I'm not sure why AEM's formula for converting voltage to AFR doesn't just work, but my guess is that you'll just need to fudge the numbers in that formula until the results look like the stock sensor's results. (Keeping in mind that the stock sensor won't read less than 11.2 or so.)

Are you sure it's reading lean when you go WOT, or is that happening when you lift the throttle? Maximum lean readings when you lift are normal. Maximum lean at WOT would be weird though.

http://discovermagazine.com/1995/apr/analysisofatoxic493

Analysis of a Toxic Death

A year ago two dozen emergency room staff were mysteriously felled by fumes emanating from a dying young woman. Investigations turned up nothing--until a team of chemists from a nuclear weapons lab got involved.

(Not really news, as the article is from 1995, but it's a crazy story.)