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That sucks about Drive, I was really hoping they'd turn out to be a shop that could be counted on to stand behind their work.

Do you know yet where the oil is coming from?

Racewagon is waiting on a couple more engine parts. Got an coated perrin uppipe in the mail a couple weeks back. Still sorting out the fueling.

Which part(s) of the fuel system need work?

Hi guys

What do i need to get to do a swap from 5 mt to a 6 mt sti tranny more than the tranny on a jdm leggy 2,0 gt ? Need a tranny that will hold over 400hp �������� im the only jdm leggy in sweden that will have a stroked dual avcs 2.1 l highcomp engine hehe so hmm all this is new for me .

Best regards

Bobban from sweden

Did you see the first post in this thread? If your car is from the 2005-2009 generation, it has just about everything you need to know. (I think JDM used the same chassis in 2004 as well).

If your car is from a different generation, you should probably start a new thread.

I'm still using my stock 05 shifter trim, and everything lines up just fine, but I'm also using an 05 6MT...

Did the 6MT dimensions change between 05 and... ever? I have no idea.

Honda's new jet...

Bummer, creaking would be irritating.

I removed my gauges and CarPC for the airbag job because I figured it was not reasonable to expect them to figure out how to deal the huge tangle of crap I have buried in the dashboard. My other two cars are stock though.

I didn't. Not worth the risk of an oil fire IMO. Subaru put the headers in a great place to collect any drips.

Of course plenty of people do it anyway, and 99% of them have no issues.

You can drive without the dccd controller. The car will still be awd, you just won’t have control over the lockup of the center diff. No big deal

I've been running my LGT this way for quite a while, at least a few thousand miles, maybe 10k. If I spent more time on icy/snowy roads I'd probably put the DCCD controller back in, but I actually kinda like it this way.

Also in response about the cams, I got a response from BC, and it's quite simple!

 

"The intake cams out of the box are on a 130 lobe center. The tag provided is only for disengaging AVCS to run standard gears."

 

So it is at 130 with avcs!! So lets keep it moving lol!

That's good news.

It would be interesting to ask BC whether the specs on their cam card...

http://www.briancrower.com/makes/subaru/cam_card/bc_0622.pdf

...are with the intake cam retarded (as it will be during a cold start) or advanced (as with AVCS).

The intake centerline on BC's dual-AVCS 280s (and my 272s) is 130, and can be advanced to 110, but for single AVCS 280s the intake centerline is shown as 110. If it is 110 at rest, there isn't much room for AVCS to do its thing. It would make more sense for it to be 130ish at rest and then use AVCS to advance it.

Here's the specs for dual-AVCS 280s, for comparison:

http://www.briancrower.com/makes/subaru/cam_card/bc_0624.pdf

It's weird that the intake cams are different, I would have expected them to be the same.

If they really did put the centerline at 110, it might be a good idea to retard the intake cam pullies by one or two teeth within the belt, to give more separation. Then you could use AVCS to advance it back. At 110 degrees, you'll have 6 degrees of overlap @ 0.050, which I suspect will have a bit of a muscle-car lope to it at idle. At 130 it would have -14 which should idle pretty smooth.

The headers came in today. Now I need to wrap them... bleh ...not looking forward to it.... I was comparing it with the killer b 4-1, and for 900 bucks, 600 dollars cheaper than the killer b, I couldn't resist. I stumbled on it on the nasioc forums, not much dyno info but I figured I would try it out for that price.

 

What turbo are you running? I'm still waiting for my bnr billet 20g.

 

If I can get peak power between 6500-7000 rpm I would be happy.

 

Powerband starting at 5k? Are you talking about the chart I linked?

I have a GT3076, it's about ten years old. It flows 52 lb/min, which I guess is pretty close the one you ordered, though hopefully yours will be making good boost a couple hundred RPM sooner since it's newer.

Yes, I was referring to that chart. I'm guessing your turbo should be hitting 20psi by 3500-3750 or so in 3rd gear.

Did you check piston-to-valve clearance with your new motor? Are there any issues at full AVCS advance? I'm just curious.

hmmm so now to choose 4-2-1 or 4-1 exhaust manifold.... 4-1 seems like the best for high rpm.

 

I'm thinking of this guy.

 

https://www.maperformance.com/collections/exhaust-system-manifolds-headers/products/maperformance-16ga-ej257-header-2005-2017-subaru-wrx-sti-map-sub-elh

That looks like a really nice header, especially if they have a 2" or larger up-pipe to go with it. I might have gone with that rather than my KillerB if I'd known about it (if it was in production back then?). It would be interesting to see a back to back test with that header and the KB to see if the longer runners have an advantage.

The BC 280 cams will have enough overlap, even at zero AVCS advance, that I'd lean strongly toward equal length headers. They're not going to be crazy lopey like an old muscle car, but I'd be amazed if they idle like stock. The cam card says 6 degrees of overlap at 0.050 which I'm sure will be noticeable. Stock is -34 degrees with AVCS at rest and +6 with AVCS fully advanced.

I'm looking forward to your results with those cams. If I knew then what I (think I) know now, I'd have gone with 280s rather than 272s.

About RPM ranges and powerbands...

My turbo hits full boost at just under 4000 RPM, and though the curves show it peaking at about 6500, it still feels like full power at 7k, so my current motor will let it rev to 8k. (As soon as I figure out why my WBO2 won't talk to my laptop... I'm itching to get on with tuning it.)

I assume that I will feel it let up by 8k, and I'm fine with that - being at full power when the rev limiter comes up feels wrong, because there's obviously useful power on the other side of the rev limiter. Ideally, the peak of the power curve would be roughly in the middle of the shift RPM and the engage-next-gear RPM. I'm guessing that'll be roughly 7500 and 5500, leaving an extra 500 RPM to play with after peak power, which seems about right.

It is gutless around 2500 RPM on the freeway. Relaxing. And kind of pathetic. I go from 6th to 5th just to get up some pretty moderate hills. But IMO that's a fair price to pay for the ride from 4000 on up. It really comes down to a personal decision as to whether (and how often) you're willing to downshift to access a bunch more power. Personally, I think it's worth the trouble.

But I think I would mind a powerband that starts at 5000 RPM, even with an 8000 RPM limiter. My current 4k to 7k powerband is a little cramped, so I'm really looking forward to having an extra 1000 RPM to play with at the top end.

$0.02

That's interesting about the TGVs, I hadn't thought of that but you might be right. And I would expect better atomization to help mitigate stumble.

Almost makes me wish I hadn't deleted mine, just so I could play with them.

I went and looked at my AVCS map and it’s already at 25* in the area I get stumble (.8-1.2g/rev 2000-3000 RPM). Maybe that is too much advance?

I doubt that it's too much, because my wife's 09 LGT has 40 degrees from .5 to .8 in that RPM range. But it couldn't hurt to experiment with 20 and 30 to see if it gets better or worse.

It might be interesting to try varying the timing too. For comparison, my wife's car's factory tune (stumble free) has about 30 degrees at .8 r/rev and 16 degrees at 1.2 in that RPM range. My car (pretty good but still experimenting) has about 35 and 15. All of those figures include the base + advance timing values.

One of the companies that makes electric motors for RC airplanes and helicopters makes a motor big enough to replace 150cc gas engines that were used in large-scale RC planes. Therefore somebody put two of them into a scooter the size of a backpack.

I thought the plug on the right was the one to tap for oil pressure. Almost under the throttle body, but closer to the firewall. I haven't actually tried though.

I have a pressure sender that has an warning-light switch built in, and I'm planning to remove the factory sensor and wire the new sensor to both the factory dash light and an aftermarket gauge.

I don't have specs for stock cams, but for the BC 272s that I'm using, 30 degrees of intake advance puts the IVC at 31 degrees. 2009 LGTs used 40 degrees advance for a small part of the AVCS table, and had about 20 degrees less duration (10 less on the open side, 10 less on the closing side), so I'm guessing that my IVC timing with 30 degrees of advance probably matches the stock cam at 40 advance.

As best I can tell, these are the specs for the stock cams:

Duration: 240 degrees @ .006", 204 int / 208 exh @ .050"

Centerlines: Intake 125-85, Exhaust 115

My intake cam with 30 degrees advance has an IVC of 31 degrees

The stock cam with 15 degrees advance has an IVC of 32 degrees

So, based on my car getting smoother with 30 degrees of AVCS advance in the 1500-3200 RPM range (roughly 0 to 1.25 load), then with stock cams I'd start by using 15 degrees of AVCS advance in that region. The stock AVCS table for my 05 had a mix of 0 and 15 in that area.

And more advance might be better, I only stopped at 30 because I started to worry about piston-to-valve clearance, which is a non-issue with stock cams. 2009 LGTs have 40 degrees of advance in some of the same cells (around 0.5-0.9 load).

I've attached pics of the stock AVCS table for my '05, and something that I think it worth trying if any DIY tuners out there want to experiment. The highlighted cells in the stock table are where I had the most stumble. If the proposed table actually helps, try setting those highlighted cells to 25 and see if that helps more.

Honestly, I feel far too much time and energy has been spent on an "issue" that... I personally never experienced driving any of my 4 LGT's, that Subaru never felt was a large enough "'issue" to warrant even looking into, that most of my customers never experienced and that in the end a little throttle overcomes.

I've got 3 Subarus and two of them are stumble free.

05 LGT, 5MT/6MT - used to stumble a lot, now stumbles very little

05 OBXT, 5EAT - no issues

09 LGT, 5MT, no stumble at all

To be fair, I think some of the stumble in my 05 LGT was self-inflicted, but it's also something that I noticed during the first test drive.

And I wonder if the torque converter in my OBXT helps to damp out a little bit of stumble. Or maybe there really is something different, but I can't figure out what it could be.

I saw a list of ROM revisions for my 05 LGT and Subaru said that one or two of them were intended to address stumble. I think "roughness" might be the word they used. I looked for it just now, but I can't find it.

At least on my car it seems to corrotlate with short term AFR correction overshooting. I think this is becaus the per cylinder compensations no longer match, but I don’t have a 4-channel EGT to try and fix that.

I thought there was a table to set the AF Correction min/max limits, but I don't see it now. But if you can reflash, you can disable closed-loop fueling, which means no AF Correction or AF Learning. I posted a thread about that on a RomRaider a while back. I do it sometimes to work on MAF scaling:

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=7897

If your AF correction theory is right, you should see an improvement. If not, it's one more thing to cross off the list, and it doesn't take much to try and set it back to normal afterward.

I tried a T fitting and a couple feet of hose, and it didn't help much.

I tried a damper on the inlet side of the fuel rails, it didn't help much.

Tried connecting the FPR to the BOV hose, and it helped a lot.

Tried adding more AVCS advance in the cruise area, and it helped a lot.

At this point the stumble is almost completely gone, so I'm almost satisfied. Almost.