NSFW

Are you implying that we could do this correctly? It's intriguing but it's not likely.

Apparently, this guy reportedly waited for hours, in a race car, in 35C/95F heat, for his run in a burnout contest. He gets to the line and the officials tell him they've changed their mind, he's not allowed due to something that happened the day before. He doesn't take no for an answer. Epic burnout. Crowd goes wild. Near fist-fight with security afterward. Gets hauled away. Victory pose, crowd goes wild again. Lifetime ban. Ban rescinded a year or two later.

Jay Leno's turbine-powered cars.

It didn't fall off, so that's a yes! There isn't much angle on it, so it's really more decorative than functional. But the mount is adjustable, so at some point we're going to have to experiment with that. I suspect that by the time it has enough angle to make meaningful downforce, the ends are also going to bend downward to an alarming degree. And I think that counts as active aero...

Yeah, we swapped out the original wing for the snowboard between sessions yesterday. Congratulations on the win, you've got a great car!

Spoonwacker and I had no idea, but we were there anyhow for a lapping day. So on the lunch break we toured the show and watched the mud pit. We should have introduced ourselves! That was us checking out your car right before the judges showed up. Did you win?

I've only been here once, for a manual a few years ago, but they did a fine job, and they're good people: http://www.edstransmissionnorthgate.com/

Searching for "steam powered motorcycle" turns up some cool stuff though. The first minute of this video is optional... then skip to 3:30... then 4:10. (Things like this make you appreciate video editing.) See also: https://www.pinterest.com/buster544469/steampunk-motorcycle/

I've seen it done with one or two valves, right next to the muffler or mufflers, but never seen it done with eight valves before.

Start with the furthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way closer (driver rear, passenger front, driver front).

Yo dawg, we heard you like exhaust systems, so we put an exhaust system on your exhaust system... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1383131305275204/permalink/2441195776135413/

Me and 3 other members (who don't post much anymore) bought a caged Mustang to race in the Lucky Dog series. Good: 2003 Mach 1 engine - runs great. Truckload of Maximum Motorsports suspension upgrades - handles great. Bad: Cage isn't very close to the roof, and 3 of us are tall, so we had to drop the seat a bunch, and then remove the seat foam, to get low enough. The fuel filler neck was janky as **** and spilling fuel got us kicked out of our 2nd race. It has a fuel cell now, but the car's name is now "Meatball." One of the seat mounting bolts was stripped, but we got that sorted. The electrical system was hacky, I re-did a bunch of it. Plus a long long list of random little things, most of which are sorted out now. One of brake ducts came out and got ran over at our last track day, gonna fix that this weekend. The front bumper mounting scheme is crap, gonna work on that too. Plus the wing was really mundane so of course we had to fix that up right. Wing.2 is gonna be a snowboard, already procured, just need some drilling and some hardware and it's gonna be perfect. Spoonwacker at the wheel a couple weeks ago:

Thanks! What profile are those tires? I'm hoping to do 245/40/18 but guessing I'll need 245/35/18 to clear the front spring perch. I'm pretty certain the width (245) will be no problem, the big question is diameter - 40 vs 35 for the profile. I'm probably just going to go 35 to play it safe, and if there's good clearance then maybe 40 with my next set of tires. (And/or switch to coilovers.)

G-code is pretty much the standard for open (non-proprietary) 3D printers. There are some variatiosn from printer to printer, like specific commands for setting bed and extruder temperatures, but if you've got it printing already then you apparently have that stuff sorted out already. In other news, I got tired of screwing with Z-axis calibration and bed leveling on my MendelMax 2 and bought a Prusa i3 MK3S a couple months ago and it's been great. Self-calibrating, built-in bed leveling, they give you temperature and speed profiles that work great with their filament... it's a big step up.

When I put in cams I set the idle to 2000 and set the idle cell in the DBW throttle table to 4 or 5%, so it would idle on its own at 2000 RPM. I wish I could remember the exact throttle percentage but I can't find the tune file now.

I used Joe Gibbs break-in oil, and then Motul break-in oil because I couldn't find Gibbs... or maybe I have that backward. Your oil change plan is the same as mine but I had one at 250 as well. It was probably excessive, but I'm OK with that.

I have the APS metal 3" inlet pipe. Not sure if they're still in production though. IWG is working fine for me. If I remember right, Blouch used to have issues with their turbo inlet being kinda behind the TGV housing, which made it hard to install... but that was years ago so even if I am remembering correctly it might not be the case anymore. It's something to check into though.

As long as I keep the revs over 4000, I don't notice any lag with my GT3076. It feels like it builds boost as fast as I can push the pedal down. Given that you already have the GS, I think I'd lean toward using it. If you're not happy with the results, then go FMIC. I was pleasantly surprised how well the 3" inlet on my ATP cleared the TGV housings. I was expecting a clusterfuck like so many other stock-location 3" turbos. For that reason alone I'd prefer ATP over alternatives. I'd also lean toward an internally gated turbo, and if you want an EWG, have one mounted on the up-pipe. This might be pointless nitpicking, but my gut says it makes more sense to vent the unwanted exhaust before the exhaust tract starts to neck down in the turbo exhaust housing. I'd love to see how their stock-location GTX3576 performs, both in terms of how much power it makes and how wide the powerband is. I'm pretty sure I'm done with power mods, but if that thing makes 500whp with full boost by 4500, I might have to reconsider. My C5 made 475whp a couple weeks ago. It would be hilarious to put the LGT back on top again.

Seems pretty promising for a single-disc. Give it a shot and keep us posted for the next 50k miles.

I wish I knew. That's my only thought on that subject.

Exedy Twin is still the best option I know of, but if there's something better I'd love to hear about it. Driveability is great. It rattles a little when disengaged, so sometimes people stare. But hey... racecar! Longevity, I dunno. I got 20k-30k miles out of it before a spring broke and it wouldn't disengage completely. I hear the discs warp at around 30k. Tried an Act single (HDSS? I forgot) and killed it pretty quickly. Last I heard, the only single-discs that can hold have crappy driveability, so I went back to the Twin.

Maybe try removing the studs and see if they have a longer end and a shorter end? I think they might, but I haven't touched that part of my car in years. Not sure about the hose either, sorry.

Looks like fun. I was hoping to be there with my C5 but it's still in the shop. It's supposed to be done next week though. 2:00 seems great. I was doing 2:05 in the TPE Mustang and hoping for 2:00 with some more practice. What software did you use to make the video overlay?

I realize it's been a while, but if you're still around... did you have regular front struts, or did you need coilovers to fit those tires? I've got struts and I'm wondering if those will fit, or if I should go with 245/35/18 to be sure the tire doesn't rub the bottom of the spring perch. Thanks!

https://giant.gfycat.com/LegalSaneFrigatebird.webm