NSFW

Could we get rid of the shims with a small change to the bracket? I mean, what prevents the caliper from being centered on the disc without them?

I'm running 18s now, so clearance for 17s is no big deal. It's just that I've always thought that the front wheels stick out a little too much to begin with, so the shims, even as thin as they are, kinda bug me. But maybe I'll be less averse to that after I camber the wheels in a couple degrees.

Are there any wheels that are proven to fit without those shims? Or are the shims needed to move the brake disc outward?

There was a "that one guy" in the neighborhood where I grew up who built a six- or seven-foot-long tennis ball cannon for the 4th of July, using Thermite and some kind of spray for ignition. He'd pour in the Thermite, drop in a tennis ball, spray something into the "chamber" from a little hole in the side (might have been starter fluid?) and just wave a match past the hole. Most of the tennis balls were never seen again. Good times.

Are both transfer cases 1:1, or is one of them 1.1:1 ? Some models have different ratios in the front and rear diffs and the transfer case evens then out.

I didn't see anything like that but I wasn't looking. I can look into it though, I have some vacation time coming up. It might be interesting to try reducing the duty-cycle thresholds to see if that makes any difference. I'm not real hopeful that it will, but it would be easy to try.

Have you guys had good results with telling the ECU to always use 100% duty cycle? Or is the problem just that the stock pump controller doesn't provide enough power at 100%? There are definitions for the thresholds that cause the stock ROMs to switch from 33% to 66% and 100%, would it help to change those? They're based on injector duty cycle and I gather that large injectors can necessitate lowering the thresholds due to the smaller duty cycle. I posted the definition for A2WC522N for 05 LGTs at RomRaider, and I could be persuaded to find it for later models too.

After some more time, I've realized that the problem is much better when the engine is warm - almost completely fixed, I might not notice it if I wasn't looking for it. But the engine still runs rough when it is cold. That might have a lot to do with my 272 cams though. I still need to get off my butt and redo the FPR reference line for my OBXT to compare.

Spotted at nasioc:

Wait for it... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7OxJRkSEMA]Real Life Final Destination Traffic Accident - Light Pole Decapitation - Near Death Experience - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pliOr-7hLg]THePETEBOX - Library Bounce // Vocal Loop Pedal Beatbox - YouTube[/ame] Saw this guy live in Seattle last weekend, he's my new favorite artist.

How much intake/exhaust overlap is there if you fully advance the intake cams? I'm guessing that would give you maximum EGR and thus minimum pumping losses, since the cylinders would be filling with more exhaust and less intake air... No idea what that would do to emissions, or how well the engine would run, but it might be interesting to experiment with it. I'm pretty sure that WGDC is a non-issue here, since it only really makes a difference when the boost level starts to exceed whatever the wastegate spring provides. With any less boost, the WG spring is holding the WG shut, so it doesn't matter what the solenoid is doing. If you want to make it harder to get into boost, a weaker wastegate spring would sorta help, but really I think the best way to minimize boost is to modify the nut behind the wheel. Just use less throttle.

I have a licensed installation of IDA, and if someone can get me a firmware image and the .idb or .idc of what's known so far I'd be happy to see what else I can find.

I moved my FPR's pressure signal from the intake runner to a T in the BPV hose today, and it made a big difference. I'm not sure it solved the problem 100% but it's pretty close. My car is lowered on 18s with slightly stretched tires (225 on 8") so it's kinda hard to tell whether the remaining roughness is just the road or still the motor. I've tried a bunch of other things in the past (load compensation table, 20" T off of the fuel line, fuel line dampers...) but nothing else fixed the intermittent roughness while cruising in the 2000-2500 RPM range. I'm going to try the same thing on my OBXT next, as it has a similar problem. Being 5EAT, the roughness is somewhat damped out by the transmission, so it took me a while to be sure I wasn't just imagining it. But on the other hand, it's a got a smooth ride so I'm expecting it to be very smooth after this. My next couple weeks are going to be really hectic though, so it might be a while before I make the change.

That's a real shame about his car. But I wonder if the design could be split into pieces to make it work with consumer printer. Like, print the bottom part upside down, then print the pod section with the gauge face facing down. Then use glue or screws to put them together.

Is there someplace where I can read about the calculated tables? For example, what are the X and Y axes (both "what do they mean" and "what is the range of values"), and what is the range of values within the table? Knowing how they would work might help me find them... I have an 05 OBXT now, with a 5EAT, and I'm willing to spend some time digging for these tables. But I need to know where to start digging.

Related:

I'm kinda bummed that I missed that. Haven't been to that meet for a few years now.

I'm puzzled as to why that kit would require tuning.

The next update to Windows is supposed to have a 3D scanning/printing app. I'm really curious as to whether it will be useful for scanning convex parts and then making models to fit inside. Or if you can scan the cavity and import that into another app that can flip the faces around, shrink, trim. Voila, a plug is made. Then it's just simple CAD work to add fins or whatever. OK, it won't be that easy, but you get the idea...

I have a hunch that's correlation, not causation. See how long it takes for the stumble to come back...

If you have to ask, then it is working perfectly. What a brilliant idea.

I thought that one had a VC on the center diff? Fully open you can dump the clutch and do burnouts.

With no controller, it is unlocked. Honestly I like it better that way anyhow unless there's snow or ice on the road... I unhooked my controller while searching for electrical gremlins, and just never bothered to hook it back up.

Certainly not with enforcement. It's pretty cool.