Pleides

I'd still be willing to bet the overboost code is your MAF sensor. I got that code until I replaced mine. It does sound like you may have something electrical going on though. Good luck.

I believe the sway bar sizes are in the teens in mm on our cars from the factory. I noticed a monumental improvement on my car having done a 22 mm Whiteline front bar on my car after absolutely everything else. Way less body roll transfer to the rear. The rear 20mm bar was probably the biggest improvement in handling overall, though. I did Kartboy endlinks all around. I'd second your preference for no polyurethane. My bushings are all squeaking now in the suspension and diff and I'm getting quite sick of them. Not really sure I wanna go though the whole car to grease them again.

Probably would be best to manually recrawl the site when old posts find their way back to life again, post index and all that. Some major threads are still inaccessible.

I could be wrong, but I think you're overthinking things here. When you run a stupid K&N filter on our cars you end up dirtying up and killing the MAF sensor rather quickly. I'd be willing to bet that you could probably unplug the MAF and the car would start. Could be wrong. My car had all the same sort of funky symptoms yours had and my MAF sensor needed to be replaced. Beyond that, perhaps try pulling the plugs and seeing if anything looks amiss?

Do you know if we'll go back to having proper cached Google search results like we had months back? Or is that something that's out of hand now?

I paid Safelite 100 dollars after State Farm coughed up for the remainder. Just call your local windshield repair shop and see what they say. Apparently Safelite is kinda spendy, but I got Fuyao glass (they're an OEM for GM, among others) rather than some super cheap knockoff, so it was worth it. This was right when the pandemic started, just FYI, so I'm not sure how readily available glass is for our cars with current shortages. Just make sure they know that your windshield has heated wipers and they don't order something that doesn't come with that.

Unless this forum is different from other IP board forums I've used prior, you subscribe to a topic and get the notification baked into the forum and not via Email. You have to option that. Digging around in the settings netted me this. Go here for settings. https://www.legacygt.com/notifications/options/

Thank you so, so much for switching over to IPBoard. I will not miss the old site. I used the LinusTechTips forums for nearly a decade and when they switched to IPBoard I was amazed by how much more modern it made the forum. Hopefully we don't lose any veterans to the changes.

Trying out the new uploader for image content. Got a couple pics with my friend's lifted Outback 3.0 a couple weeks ago. Also looks like the uploader compresses pretty hard. These photos are 3000*4000 on a DSLR and got compressed to a couple hundred kilobytes. I'm excited to hopefully see photos last on here rather than using dead Photobucket links though! It does appear, however, as of writing this that old photos from this post are removed, so we'll see how many guides get lost to time.

Surgeline used Amsoil in mine and I have no complaints. Mine still had some leftover NAPA (rebranded Valvoline) in it when they topped it off and I hated that stuff. Got gear grind in any sort of freezing weather.

Good luck! I may be in the minority but I can't wait to abandon this dumpster fire of an outdated website and move to IPBoard. My experience with IPBoard forums is mostly positive. Really gonna not miss the weird notifications system we have here!

My car goes to lukewarmish air when I use manual climate control above 65, and yours will too whether it's functioning or not. The car is programmed like this. No, I don't get it either. If you use automatic climate control, the A/C will come on depending on the ambient temperature till about 75 fahrenheit. I usually leave my climate on auto at 73 on cooler days or 74 on hotter days. A/C definitely blasted all day long at 74 today while it was 86 out. I don't believe our compressors are variable, I.E. they're either on or off, so you can DEFINITELY feel if it's on, unlike a lot of modern cars where there's no clutch to kick the AC off and on and it kinda comes on for however much the car deems reasonable. And, again, ANY manual temperature settings above 65 will result in the A/C compressor turning off. Leave the A/C at 65 for a prolonged period of time and you may encounter an issue that Max Capacity discovered in his wagon where it will stop working on long drives. I believe a relay replacement is the solution to that? Haven't encountered it on my car.

Uppipe? The OEM one for an 07 LGT has no catalyst in it and is a better part for you. Looks like it's time for some heat to remove it baby!

I just made my (hopefully) last doctor/specialist visit post-COVID last week or two. I'm getting to the point where I can do prolonged cardio and lifting weight above my head, but the gym does still kick my ass and it's not the sort of ass-kicking I get when out of shape. My lungs are scarred and I don't know how much better they're gonna get Doesn't surprise me one bit. The most hardcore of antivaxxers I know are of this age. The younger ones in that age range also had some delays getting vaccinated compared to the older people in that group, I believe.

If you've got a press then you're golden man. Nothing is hard to remove suspension-wise on this car compared to newer stuff with 4 knuckles per corner. If you have bad ball joints or anything like that that needs to come off then it might honestly be more time and cost-effective to just replace the arms entirely (maybe pony up for some nice aluminum Spec B arms) with new ones. I went with OEM bushings in the front control arms and the trailing arms and did polyurethane bushings in the rest of the car. The poly bushings have some squeaking after two years and I'm not looking forward to having to take the arms off to lube the bushings again. If sharper handling, more feedback, and longer life (if lubed regularly) at the expense of more NVH and maintenance sounds good to you, get some new bushings from Whiteline. If you want it all factory and don't plan on doing much suspension modification, go with the OEM rubber.

If you think it's quiet now, wait until you feel it with brand-new high-performance all-season tires and all new suspension bushings! If you haven't done the bushings yet then I can guarantee you that they're all trashed just based on age alone, plus 92K on them. The front LCAs and trailing arms will both need new bushings. Might as well do all of them in every suspension arm if you plan to keep the car a long time so you can skip multiple alignments. It'll quiet the car down some and make it handle+ride better too! Although these cars are a far cry from my old Honda Civic in terms of MPG, it's possible to get 25 MPG without a crazy amount of effort with proper pedal control or cruise control plus lower speeds. I have averaged 25.2 on my current tank with 200 miles on it according to the center screen. It's usually accurate within +/- .3 MPG. I drive almost exclusively on the freeway. Our speed limits are 55 for most of my drive, so the car sees some pretty easy miles.

Idle relearn will solve it briefly but you will eventually get some stalling. Just part of life with a vac leak on a turbo car. It sounds like you have a vac leak though. Most shops don't keep a pressure tester handy that can handle 10+ PSI that goes through a turbocharged engine. Go to a performance shop that has a dyno and they'll have one 100%. Still sounds like a vacuum leak. Unless you're on an aftermarket intake it's also highly unlikely the throttle plate is dirty. They don't get that dirty on these cars.

YMMV but I ran out of injector at 18 PSI with a VF52 at sea level here in Portland.

Good to install to ensure your rear sway bar anchor points don't just bend out! My car immediately bent one with the installation of an upgraded rear bar and I had to install these later. GLWYS.

Every Subaru in the family has needed major engine work. Dad had a 1999 Outback that needed a head gasket under warranty. Mom's 06 Forester' HG failed before she owned it and I believe it got a new engine. My car went 214K before needing anything regarding the engine, but lots of other stuff has fallen apart on it. I still maintain that they're more reliable than the average car if maintained. They're probably the easiest new cars to fix in 2022, which is worth something.

08 sedans got a new rear bumper design. I have no clue how the fitment would differ, but it's probably trivially different between all the years.

The wagon exhaust tips are longer. I have a Borla exhaust on my wagon and the exhaust tips sit recessed into the bumper while the muffler hangers meet up exactly where they're supposed to (Borla only ever made sedan exhausts). The only difference between the two is the length of the exhaust tips. To get them to fit flush like they do on the sedan, I'd need 2-3 inches of pipe extra. An OEM sedan exhaust would fit on a wagon and an OEM wagon exhaust would fit on a sedan. For the latter, the tips would poke out a bit.

There's a ton of site maintenance going on right now that's causing emails to break. They're under investigation, last I checked.

Yes, they're out of production. I might be interested in it if you're gonna let it go.