wcbjr

Up top in the engine bay, locate the O2 sensor wire and unplug it. You'll also have to remove/undo a couple clips that are attached to it.

Snake the O2 sensor wire down to the actual sensor.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00439.jpg

Note: Messing with the O2 sensor in the next two posts do not have anything to do with removing a turbo. But I am going a bit further and removing the uppipe as well. Bonus!

 

Remove the fastener here, slide the cover down and you'll be staring at an oxygen sensor.

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00435_2.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00437.jpg

Now you'll be looking at something like this.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00435.jpg

 

 

I wasn't particularly happy to see what the swaybar bushing looked like, but oh well.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00436.jpg

At this time, I lossened the lugnuts and jacked up the car. Never trust a jack to hold the car in place, ALWAYS user stands. And for good measure, make sure the car doesn't roll anywhere.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00433.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00434.jpg

As soon as you take the TMIC off, stuff a rag into the turbo compressor outlet. You DONT want to drop anything down in there.

 

Yeah, thanks. Forgot about that. The turbo is coming out and I always check it before going back in, so I don't have to worry about that.

 

I'll go back and reference your notes and update my posts accordingly later on.

On to the downpipe. There are four visible bolts you can remove here. It might be a good idea to PBBlaster them and let them sit if you cannot easily remove them. Remove the bolts and set the heatshield bracket aside.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00432_4.jpg

Along with the coolant lines, the turbo also has oil lines going into it and going out of it. You can clearly see the line up top. We need to remove the bolt, taking great care not to lose the two copper washers on top of and below the banjo. Also remove the small bolt holding the bracket in place. We can't reach the line going out of the turbo yet. We have to wait until we get the downpipe off for that step.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00432_3.jpg

This is the part where it gets a little interesting because all the stuff is so cramped together around the turbo.

 

Next step is to drain about a gallon of coolant from the radiator, unless you like coolant everywhere like me. After you drain, remove the two clamps off the coolant hoses to/from the turbo, then unplug the hoses themselves. The arrow shows the return hose, but the clamp is not visible. If you want to scare people on the road, just let the coolant get everywhere and burn off when you first drive around.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00432_2.jpg

IIRC, there are 5 small bolts that hold on the heatshield over the turbo. Remove those and remove the heatshield. Things will look a bit like this.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00432.jpg

A closer couple of shots.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00429.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00430.jpg

Remove the three bolts shown, two for the bypass valve and one for the intercooler mount.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00425.jpg

 

Remove the two bolts here that connect the intercooler to the turbo.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00426.jpg

 

Lastly, loosen the hose clamp shown here that goes to the throttle body.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00427.jpg

 

Pull that intercooler outta there. Things should look a bit like this now.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00428.jpg

Here we go. Your removal may be slightly different because I have aftermarket up and downpipes installed.

 

Remove the 4 tabs from the engine cover and remove cover. Your tabs may look different because I've removed the cover so many times that I have lost track of which ones were stock.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00423.jpg

 

It should now look something like this. The big blue cable is my stereo power and the thin white hose is for my boost gauge.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00424.jpg

I didn't check this thread until this morning, so you will have to wait yet another 12 hours to get your satisfaction. If you want to relieve your tension, then lock this and I will create another thread.

Anyone done one? I have a bajillion pics from my external wastegate fiasco. I can post them up tonight if anyone wants me to.

 

 

Edit: pics start of post 16.

So I installed my Cusco rear sway yesterday. While I was down there I installed 4 washers of about .75mm thickness (1 for each bolt, not 16 all total). I kinda like the sound, definitely sounds different than most. I have an uppipe, catless downpipe, stock 3rd cat pipe and Bosal catback. Sound is fairly loud all around, great at idle, but annoying at anything less than WOT. It will be coming back off very soon. I would rather get a race pipe for the 3rd cat and have more sound with more random popping.

Also, file a formal complaint with SoA.

Yet another reason to change your own oil.

rented myself a impact wrench, rounded the front lower strut bolt, arg! now i need to take it a shop and get raped on just breaking loose bolts.

 

Just use a Dremel to cut a couple new flat sides and use a smaller open ended wrench.

I wish everyone who swaps springs on the ground with jacks/jackstands would read this post to save hours of frustration. Spray some PB Blaster on the bolts and let them sit for a few minutes. Slap a wrench on the bolts and then put a floor/bottle jack under the wrench. Jack up the wrench, VIOLA! Bolts are loose.

How did I miss this?!

http://www.download.com/BlackWidow/3000-2071_4-10545255.html?tag=lst-0-1

 

Here's something to download the pics with.

Here are some pics from a trip I just found:

 

hxxp://resources.gmc.cc.ga.us/johnm/subaru/

Ahhh,..

 

whatever happened to my DSM where the plugs sat inside the head and were easily changed from above and took like 10 minutes to do?,..

 

Sheesh,..sounds just as frustrating as changing the plugs on my 2.5l 4cylinder Ford Ranger,...bad angles, scraped knuckles, some swearing, blood, sweat, tears,..;0

 

This is yet another reason EVOs make so much power with so little money. Compare changing their two cams in a couple hours and a few hundred bucks with changing our four cams in a day or two and around a thousand dollars.

It's a manual on how to make your vacations go smoothly, correctly and inexpensively.

I've got vacation pics for many, many models dating from 2004 or 5 all the way back into the 60's I believe. Anyone want to see them?

 

edit: only goes from 2004 and back.