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ckwaters

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Posts posted by ckwaters

  1. Thanks. I think you're spot on with your guesses. So it seems this LGT probably had some mods done to the engine. Besides those and some Moog endlinks the car appears totally stock. Power feels similar to my 3.0R which has a few mods.

    As far as the lights, they were always on. I can't test it out now because I drained the coolant to install a block heater tomorrow. And I just disconnected the daytime running light connector then turned the key to the "ON" position and the parking lights were not on. I'll test again with the engine running in a couple of days.

    For the up pipe. I didn't know what an up pipe was yesterday. I believe I have a catless up pipe. It's mostly covered by heat shields but I can see part of it and it seems catless.

     

    1. Connector not plugged in on the driver's side just behind the cylinder head.

    I think that might be the plug for EGT sensor that would have been in the up-pipe. Might indicate that you do have a catless uppipe that no longer has the EGT sensor.

     

    2. Large connector with thick gauge wire not plugged in near oil filler cap.

    I think that's from a secondary air pump delete. If you don't have any coded, then it likely has a custom tune to removed the CELs for the missing air pump and EGT sensor.

     

    3. Paperwork said installed STi catless up-pipe or down-pipe....can't remember and I don't have the paperwork with me at the moment. Can anyone confirm I have an STi pipe?

    Looks like a stock downpipe, can't see the up-pipe from any of the pictures.

     

    4. Custom intake pipe? Lots of small vacuum hoses going everywhere.

    That's an aftermarket turbo inlet and it looks like someone replaced all the old stock vacuum hoses with silicon (red)

     

    5. Tail lights always on when the car is running.

    Even with the headlights off? Taillights or brake lights?

  2. I recently bought a silver 2007 Legacy GT in the Portland, OR area. Perhaps it used to belong to someone on this forum. The person I bought it from owned the car for less than a year and had receipts for thousands of dollars in repairs for headgaskets and various other issues. Car runs and drives good now and doesn't leak. I have a lot of experience working on the EZ30 platform but none on turbo models. A few odd things I can't figure out on my own are.

     

    1. Connector not plugged in on the driver's side just behind the cylinder head.

    2. Large connector with thick gauge wire not plugged in near oil filler cap.

    3. Paperwork said installed STi catless up-pipe or down-pipe....can't remember and I don't have the paperwork with me at the moment. Can anyone confirm I have an STi pipe?

    4. Custom intake pipe? Lots of small vacuum hoses going everywhere.

    5. Tail lights always on when the car is running.

     

    Otherwise the car seems mostly stock.

    lgt4.thumb.jpg.885dbfe93a7dd8312a17200c8f6327b8.jpg

    lgt1.thumb.jpg.a89956459507c714e50c071e98dd841d.jpg

    lgt2.thumb.jpg.e630c12c13ab401b17a365b75234e341.jpg

    lgt3.thumb.jpg.044d5c09dd779932c71df20f55c7ae23.jpg

  3. For sale - $280 obo. Located in Federal Way, WA.

     

    I have a black carpet that was cleaned with a Rug Doctor professional rental spot cleaner. It's clean enough to eat off of now.

    Condition is pretty good but not perfect. The carpet came from a car with cloth seats and it seems the drivers seat brushing against the carpet altered the texture in one spot. Faint stains in the rear but barely noticeable.

    Can provide higher resolution upon request.

     

    Also have and will list as soon as I clean them and take pictures:

    Center console

    Glove box door

    Steering under cowling

    Side pieces that extend from center console to glove box and cowling

    I have an entire black interior but was saving parts for myself. If you want something just ask.

    1524813200_carpet1a.jpg.5c08dafcee84c02fb4067bbe643086d4.jpg

    1305092583_carpet1b.jpg.f5a4156388d336fa9f6dadf85d024be1.jpg

    1855276405_carpet1c.jpg.ff15dba03224a5791ed0ceaa01d274db.jpg

    81036409_carpet1d.jpg.04ad04826ff5742320dadad3d6d26527.jpg

    1332465286_carpet1e.jpg.156b7208abea29adc4bb799483f606df.jpg

  4. Congrats on the install! I swapped my heating element over as well because the one on the Japanese mirrors wasn't that hot. That was very difficult and I broke one USDM mirror in the process. Luckily my skills improved and no more mirrors were broken. I do however now have 7 years of bad luck, but it's 2020 so I'm not alone.

    Fishing the wires wasn't as hard as I expected. I used a huge zip tie to feed through. It was stiff enough to push through but soft enough to make the becds without stabbing the rubber conduit. Then I secured the wires with masking tape and pulled it all through.

  5. Oh... that might explain why it didn't seem like my pre-facelight JDM folding mirrors didn't really heat up. Really curious to find out if there is a fix.

     

    The mirrors pop out pretty easily without any disassembly. So if you still have some USDM mirrors or get some from a junkyard you can easily swap those. Just need a flat screwdriver and pry from the bottom (with mirror tilted all the way up) to undo them then they have to go upward (with mirror tilted all the way down) to come out. The mirror and heating element come out as one.

  6. I picked up some BP9 mirrors that are heated and folding. I also bought them in the same color as my car so I could just use them instead of disassembling and reassembling everything.

     

    These mirrors have the 10 pin so I did the dremel and repin method that Blink wrote up in post #55.

     

    Everything works correctly but I noticed the JDM heated mirrors only get slightly warm while the USDM mirrors get hot. I was curious so I disassembled them and they are quite different. The pattern of the heating element is visibly different as well as what looks like an additional grounding tab in the corner that the JDM mirror doesn't have. Also the JDM mirrors are not as bright and clear as the USDM. Strangely, this time and this time only it seems that the USDM got something better.

     

    The only thing I don't like about the install is that at the adjustment needed for RHD mirrors to work for me there is a noticeable gap between the mirror and housing. Is there a way to address this? For the people that have used the JDM mirrors to rebuild their USDM mirrors do you still have the angle problem or is the angle made by the internals that are connected to the folding mechanism?

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