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I found out why the radio trim pieces weren’t lining up. The thick metal support that goes under the steering wheel was putting pressure on the black plastic piece that goes on the side of the radio area. I feel like that metal piece is for safety purposes but Europe must not have them because the fitment was way too tight with it on.

I also got the shifter boot on but didn’t get a picture. I still have a lot of work to do to get this right.

I’m going to order a metal bracket for a 2010 Outback and see if it fits since that would be way easier than getting one from Europe. And for the attachment point in the front there is about a 3/8” space that I’ll make a custom bracket for out of aluminum.

That just leaves the handbrake boot and the console lid.

 

 

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It's been a somewhat depressing day. I was excited to get my long awaited EDM center console and what I thought were all the parts I needed but it's not going well. I found out that I will need a hand brake boot, a metal bracket to mount the console to the car and a new lid. Subaru went out of their way to make sure these parts don't fit our American cars.

Also the radio trim pieces don't seem to fit as well as the USDM ones with my JDM double DIN. It never perfectly but I've always been able to minimize the gaps with the USDM parts.

I don't really know what to do at this point.

Boxkitty just replied to my build thread the other day!

 

None of my 12v were receiving power to them, and the light below the in-dash 12v never worked since I bought the car last March. I finally dove into the issue as it bothered me that everything except the 12v, and passenger seat heater were in working order. I have a burning hatred for all things electrical bc I fail to wrap my head around the simple concepts, and am scared of ruing other things with the dark magic that the flow of current is.

 

Popped out fuses #13 & #20. Viola! Blown fuse. I screamed out of excitement when I saw a blown fuse. I wish I checked sooner as I've had no way to charge my phone in the car since I've owned it, and have been terrified to take longer trips out bc of this. Grabbed fuses from the gold car, threw them in. Swapped out bulbs from extra interior bits I have, and we were back in business. All 12v and lights work, and I couldn't be happier. I ended up blowing fuse #17 after replacing the other two, but I replaced that one and all is well now.

 

Next task: Figure out why my driver's seat heater functions properly (lights up and heats up), and the passenger's seat doesn't function at all (no light and no heat).

 

I can lend you an extra seat heater switch next time I see you so you can see if the switch is the issue. Both seat heaters appear to be on the same fuse so it’s probably the switch.

I installed a COBB adjustable short shifter and all Kartboy bushings to my 6MT swapped Outback. I absolutely love the feel of the shifter now. A user on an Australian Subaru forum described the feel of the stock shifter best as, "throwing a sausage down a long hallway".

 

I also installed a 2nd clutch switch so I can fool the car into thinking I have my foot on the clutch. Now I can use my remote starter once again that I haven't been able to use since the car was an automatic.

Pics are attached.

 

I can include a manual Shifter surround or automatic if needed if I get my asking price, I can also include the parts needed to wire up the light up cup holders(si drive, led lights and harness, clear plastic cup trim for led lights)

 

So what is the asking price?

Infosecdad, I recall you recently changed your crossmember bushings. Do you remember the torque spec you used? I just changed mine and I swear the FSM is wrong. It called for 70 N.m (~51 ft.lbs), which is I think way too much. In fact, one bolt failed .

 

Also installed the STI transmission mount. Man, my 20-25 mph vibration is completely gone! And I can tell shifting from 1st to 2nd is more precise.

 

This happened to me about a month ago. I put Kartboy bushings and while tightening to spec the bolt stripped. The U-bolt looking thing. It seems to be made of a soft metal. I have several Subaru dealers nearby and only one had it. So luckily I did have to wait weeks for shipping. I didn’t torque the new one to spec. It just seemed like too much.

I’m pretty sure it’s staffing shortages. I also had 3 of 4 FedEx packages in 2 weeks time show up several days late. People don’t want jobs anymore after getting all that stimi. My transmission jack arrived half way through my 6 speed swap when it was supposed to arrive before I started. It was stuck in Portland for 4 days until I called and politely complained. It arrived 2 days later and the box was destroyed.

I try to be as nice as possible to anyone who is still working right now because with the staffing shortages, everyone who is working has to work harder.

I've been very busy working on my car for the past 6 days. Both cars pictured are 2008 3.0R LL Beans. The grey one I bought with an STi 6MT swap done. I swapped that over to the black one. Also installed a Group N transmission mount, Kartboy front and rear bushings and pitch stopper.

 

Also installed new Mevotech aluminum control arms, DBA rotors,

I like the idea of the pre-meeting for BPs. Too bad I don’t have time to do the 6MT swap before wagonfest.

Does anyone have experience or thoughts on these Clutch Max kits they have on Ebay? I'm trying to understand why they are 1/5 the price of an ACT kits. They say they're made in USA. How bad can they be? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133023884077

I've been studying clutches all week and learned a lot. So 240mm seems to be the size STi uses but the 6MT can use smaller clutches if someone wanted. I reached out to an Australian group on Facebook to see what they use and they said some are 230 and some are 240mm. Dual mass was available only in the smaller size. I'm planning to stick with an organic 240mm and a flywheel that isn't much lighter than stock. Currently weighing options like ACT, Exedy and OEM. Once I get the 3.0R supercharged I'll have close to 400hp at the crank and 300hp at the wheels so maybe I should go with ACT.

Hey all! Just posting here to let you know who the lucky new owner is of the 6MT swapped Outback that Rcnesneg sold. She's mine now and I have big plans for her. The plan is to swap the 6MT into my other 08 Outback and the 5EAT into the one I just bought.

I've never worked on a manual before so I'm looking through the forum trying to learn as much as I can. I want to put a dual mass flywheel in. Does anyone know what the Subaru part number is for the dual mass? I've seen an aftermarket one made by Luk and that is the only other option I've seen.

I was testing for boost leaks. I think I have several and locating them is a pain since there is so much stuff attached to the top of a 2.5 turbo. Working on the 3.0 is a lot easier for me. The turbo inlet seemed to leak a lot so I put hose clamps around all the brass fittings but I hear air coming from around the turbo or something and the intake manifold blocks my access to everything.

Anyway, I hooked up an STi Genome boost gauge that I bought from Croooober. So at least now I have a better idea of what the engine is doing. I got a peak of approximately 72kpa which translates to 10.5psi which is during gear changes. Generally stays around 60-65kpa or 8.7-9.4psi under acceleration. Is that low? It's a 2007 LGT with a 5EAT.

Perfect!!! my car is an LGT 3.0R ,

 

can you share a video with sound? all videos on youtube are recorded in LGT 2.5GT

 

Sorry I took so long to get back to you. I was in Alaska. Just took a couple of videos this morning.

Anyone else interested this is what a 3.0R with raptor headers and a custom exhaust, high flow cats, to JDM Legacy STi mufflers sounds like.

 

Damn. I emailed them to ask about that and they said they thought it would be fine. Good to know, guess I won't buy one.

 

 

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Yeah I think it’ll fit the 05-07 just fine. They probably never bothered to know that the 08-09 are different. Someone posted here in 2015 with the same problem. I’m going to enlarge the half circle that accommodates the radiator filler with a hole saw. Hopefully it doesn’t look bad.

I just installed a Subtle Solutions radiator shroud that's supposed to fit 05-09 on my 08. Well, very disappointed. It's not even close to fitting.....like really far off.

After looking things over last night I could see it wasn't going to work so I found a forum member that ran into the same problem but ended up bending his shroud to get it to fit. Mine is painted black and I didn't want the paint to start chipping so I decided to instead trim away plastic from my grille mount until it fit. It took a lot of trimming but I got it to fit.

Totally not worth the trouble and I think I'm still going to have to trim some of the shroud because it seems to be putting strain on the radiator filler neck.

Today i received a used muffler from japanese Legacy Tuned By STI (PN ST4430021001). Unfortunately to install them I wait for the end of Covid lockdown in my city.

 

 

Nice! I have a pair of these on my 3.0R Outback with a JDM bumper. I love the look. Sounds a little deeper, especially for a second when you let off the throttle.

I took them to a welder and extended the tips 2 inches because they didn’t look great with the Outback bumper.

Installed the JDM battery and ABS covers. I bought them on eBay from Russia and they took 2 months to arrive.

I had to relocate the under the hood switch for the remote start to make room for the ABS cover which is an improvement because the stock location also interfered with my hood struts.

 

I think someday I'm going to have to address that huge empty space behind the passenger side headlight with a Raptor supercharger.

Actually, never mind. These are actually USDM headlights. Still looks good though.

 

Yeah I don't think any JDM headlights fit the US 2008-2009.

 

Welp, I have forever lost all credibility. Never again, will I speak for another person. Sorry Chris!

 

Ha! Don't worry about it.

Thanks! Cleared with an HID retrofit.

Nice looking lowered outback. JDM headlights or cleared USDM?

I added a front bumper guard (E551SAG000) to my car. It’s subtle but I think it makes the car look better. It didn’t cost much and install was like 15 minutes.

I just did an interior swap on my 2008 Outback to black but used a 2007 Legacy interior. A few pieces are different so I need to find them to finish this up properly.

Basically I need everything under the dash that ties into the radio bezel. The glove box door, the knee plate that's under the steering wheel, the 2 woodgrain pieces on either side of the radio and the 2 black trim pieces that go under them. I'm located in WA and would prefer to pick up locally but I'll consider all options.

In the stack of paperwork I think the head gaskets have been replaced twice now in this car's lifetime. The latest paperwork mentions the STi up pipe and multi-layer stainless steel gaskets.

About the previous owner..... The guy I bought the car from bought it from another guy in Oregon and said he bought it for his girlfriend and then later she wanted something else. He paid for like $4,000 in repairs. But he didn't seem to know much about the car. He mentioned Cobb tuning but didn't know anything about it. He never even got the car titled in his name or registered. He was driving it in the other guy's name. I didn't know that until money changed hands. Luckily I got the title switched over to my name without any problems.

For the lights the switch on top of the steering column was my first thought as well. I was flipping it off and on with no change. I uncovered some crappy wiring in the back for a generic Uhaul trailer wiring module that was wired through the tail lights instead of the factory plug. It had frayed wiring that I thought may have been grounding out the lights. I removed it but no change.

Next I removed the DRL connector in the front and that turned off the parking lights. I thought all was well but I realized last night that I don't have high beams. On my 2008 I had to de-pin a wire instead of removing the whole DRL connector so I'll try that next. I also noticed a high pitched electrical sound when I turn on the parking lights/headlights. Could be some bad wiring somewhere.

 

 

07+ EJ255 had a catless UP stock so that might be a replacement UP due to some other damage, they are no different than a Ej257 UP from 07, sounds good on paper to include STi when possible.

 

The previous owner deleted the Secondary air pump that wire behind the head and the thick wire at the front of the driver side head are for the pump and solenoid that were removed. If you do not have a COBB AP or that car did not come with one the previous owner has used ECUFlash and Romraider + a Tactrix 2.0 cable to disable the related codes for solenoid stuck open, closed and voltages. If they did not and got a custom COBB AP tune to accomplish this, you have other issues.

 

Make sure you leave the last part of that system intact as it houses the barometric pressure sensor (stupid Subaru) that is used by the ECU. it is located under the turbo inlet area. Also check to make sure they blocked off the ports the systems used on teh back or each head.

 

The turbo inlet is updated with some brand silicone inlet, it is for the better

 

The lights are on b/c you've flipped the switch on top of the steering column, look behind the wheel there is a toggle switch, when ON it shows a red rectangle when off a P (i think)

 

They probably should have had told you all this prior to selling you the car, purely so you know what you are working with, when making changes or diagnosing problems.

Bump are these still for sale through your website?

Definitely the best way to go is to get the harness made by a forum member AW4BYT. Link to his website is here. https://www.legacyoddsnends.com/product-page/coming-soon-2

The connectors are really hard to come by and the company that makes them only sells in bulk. So having one pre made at this price is worth the money in my opinion.

 

 

Thanks for this. Once I pulled the dash apart, I got a better sense of what needs doing. My questions now are:

 

The fuse panel is MINI fuses, right? I bought micro add-a-circuit by mistake, I'm just trying to make sure I get it right before ordering

 

Where can I get OEM wire connectors to plug into the harness? I looked for used pigtails but wasn't finding them. Is there a certain size molex pin I can order?

and

Where did everyone ground the switch? Can it just be tapped into a nearby switch ground wire?

 

Pardon my simplicity, and thanks for the help!