Jolbaru_LGT

I did the Aisin kit w/forged water pump like, 60k ago. I should be good. In fact I did all the belts at that time. I just have to do the other belts now. Tempted to just go OEM. Or can you go STI OEM?

So, my Drive Belt and accessory belts are due for a change. Wondering which I should go with? I might have used Continental the last time, and I guess it was ok. Is Gates any good anymore? Or OEM Subaru? Or are there aftermarket belts that can handle a stage 2 setup?

I guess I'm asking because I don't know much about belts. Should I replace any pulleys or parts along with it? Or what tooth design or any of that? So, a little knowledge or advice would be much appreciated. I believe I'm hitting the 60k mark, so I feel it should be done. Thanks!

Yeah, I would be hooking up an aftermarket amp. An Alpine MRV-M250 Mono amp which handles 4ohm or 2ohm. 
The speaker itself has 4 terminals, with ribbon wiring going across the back of the speaker connecting the terminals. I’m just not sure how it’s all wired together. Or any of the specs. And as long as it’s not wired to go down to 1ohm it should be ok. It looks like I’m getting readings from my multimeter on only two of the wires coming out of the speaker the other 2, nothing. 

I added some high mileage Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic.  10w 40 I believe. Might be psychological but I swear it’s a tad smoother.

I’m wondering if anyone knows anything about the factory HK sub coming from the rear inside quarter panel? I’m pretty sure the one I have is from an ‘09 Outback.
I’m trying to fit it into my 05 legacy GT wagon. While I’m bench testing it out, to figure out polarity, I’m curious if anyone knows of any schematics, how it’s wired or the specs? I’ve heard it’s an 8” 2ohm DVC. But I’m not sure how it’s wired in from the factory. Is it wired in parallel or series? Any help would be great before I install it, just so I know. I understand most people probably just replace it with an aftermarket sub, but I’d like to get this up and running, to see how I like it before doing that.

Thanks!

2 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Yeah, I would just get another qt of the Mobil.  Oil is oil, What are you doing for normal oil change intervals ? 

I just buy Amsoil 5w-40 by the case and their EA15k13 filters 6 at a time. Do the 7-8000 mile oil changes. Blackstone Labs will tell you how good that oil after 7000 miles. 

If you have the Motul on hand...

 

I usually want to change it somewhere between 3K and 6k. I get a bit worried after 3K because I don’t delete those banjo filters, I replace them. I’m not sure if that worry is justified or not? I’m also not opposed to waiting longer…

So, I typically use Motul XCess 8100 Gen2 5w40. I’m a little ways away from doing an oil change. What oil can I add for just topping off, that’s compatible and readily available at the local big box auto parts store?

Someone recommended to me at the autozone Mobil European formula 5w40. So I put that in, now I need to get another quart just to be on the safe side. Should I track down another quart of that? Or doesn’t it matter at this point? Did I screw it up and should I do an oil change with the Motul? 
sorry, maybe I’m overthinking it. Thanks 

Well, I figured it out. If anyone cares, you have to take the moulding clip off the rocker panel guard to get in between the guard and the body. Pull it apart a little and situate the air flap. It kinda locks in there. Finally, put the clip back in, and clip down the airflap. When I tired to sneak it in there the last time without taking the rocker clip off first, it snapped.

IMG_1413.pdf IMG_1414.pdf

I have a RH rear airflap that I need help installing. It broke a while ago and I messed up installing the new one. I finally got around to getting another, and I just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I break this one as well. Part # 59123AG020

My question is: There is a little flap on the guard that looks like it gets tucked into the metal of the body of the car. It's like a little slit that could very well hold it in place. Is that correct? 

The last time I attempted it, the little plastic part on the airfoil snapped and I was kinda screwed. I tried to secure it anyways, but it was doomed. I know they're cheap enough, but I thought I'd ask anyways, thanks!
 

IMG_14088.pdf IMG_14066.PDF

13 minutes ago, silverton said:

You purchased the vehicle at 215,000.  Do you have detailed service history to back that up?

YUGE assumption pal. 

Hey buddy. It was my brother's car specially ordered by him. I have the ALL of the records, and everything that happened/didn't happen to it. Even all of the stuff that was never reported to the insurance company.  I know it pretty well.

1 hour ago, silverton said:

at 275, with a purchase mileage of 215. I'd be absolutely flabbergasted if this motor had never been removed.  Timing belt and valve adjustment in car, it can be done but YIKES who would??

It’s been very reliable. Motor has never been out. Original motor, turbo, head gaskets, transmission. I’ve never really messed with the internals of the engine. 

I didn't see anything unusual when checking under the TMIC. Looked like old crusty coolant if anything. But every connection and hose looked good.

On 11/27/2022 at 1:30 PM, Max Capacity said:

Hey, may be think about replacing the turbo inlet tube when is easy. That rubber joint at the clamp end can get weak and leak air.

I did the turbo inlet tube about 50k ago, and it looks fine right now. I wasn't happy with how much the clamp dug into the tube, but it looks ok.... for now.

9 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

Hey, may be think about replacing the turbo inlet tube when is easy. That rubber joint at the clamp end can get weak and leak air.

Thanks! Really, thank you for those pictures too. I guess I’ll lift off the TMIC, maybe unbolt and carefully lift up the turbo expansion tank and look at the coolant lines around the turbo area. That’s a slight PITA but way easier than taking off the whole intake. For now that is… Thanks for the helpful advice on lifting that intake off. I’ll reference this back if I have to get to that point.

Would a faulty crossover pipe do some bubbling like that? Do crossover pipes tend to go bad? Again, I’m assuming with 275,000 miles, the intake has never been removed and nothing under that inspected/replaced. Not by me that’s for sure, and I’ve had the car for about 60k miles.

Ugh, yeah. Thank you, it looks like there’s enough going on in there that I should go in and see for myself. I’ve honestly inspected, and cleaned the entire engine, and replaced every single coolant hose I could see without taking off the intake manifold. There’s a bit of moisture on the passenger side of the engine and I’m not really sure if it’s coolant or old oil. There’s a faint scent of coolant too. Getting whifs of coolant in the cabin as well. I’m not really losing any tho. Oh well. 
So now comes the fun job of taking that manifold off, looking for crusty white stuff, coolant, crappy old hoses and parts, and putting in a big order from the dealership. Hopefully I don’t find anything too expensive. Anything else I should do while I’m in there?

So, I typically get bubbling in the coolant reservoir tank near the radiator. That is, until I fixed and tightened up some clamps that connected to a hose 90^deg corner under my TMIC. Anyways, the bubbling seemed to stop what's coming out of the reservoir, and now I hear it under the intake manifold. WHat's under there? Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the coolant, piping and whatever else is there? Like a pic of the engine without the intake on?

I'd kinda like to know what's there, before I go taking the intake off. But I assume it's crusty in there, because I never saw what was actually there. I'm prepared to take the intake off and look, but not before knowing what's going on. I initially thought it was coming from the turbo area, but upon further listening, I'm not so sure. Thx!  

21 minutes ago, Phillyballs79 said:

Thanks! So I failed at attempt #1.. First I tried the big wire loom on the passenger side, I made a small slit and fished some 14 ga thhn in. was super tight but i made it, never getting 0ga in there without possibly damaging wires in that harness. then i started scoping out the driver side footwell you suggested. there is an unused grommet with a cover that is the perfect size above the door wire boot. i tried fishing same wire through and it seems to be landing inside a void in the sheet metal. after getting my hand stuck up in there like some kind of bear trap and freezing my ass off, i threw in the towel for the day. My question to you is, behind the fender liner (which i didnt remove yet) is there a better view / path to the inside? If thats the case im sure this will be wayy easier and will be able to use a proper grommet. Im too old and slightly wiser to take chances with 150+ amps and a rub through! lol! thanks again for your help!

Yes, Um... Do you have a manual or Auto? I have a manual, but I was told if you have an automatic, there's a firewall access where the clutch master cylinder should be. If you're going the driver's side inner fender route, it's really easy. You won't know until you peel back that fender liner. But it's kinda just staring you in the face when you get to that point. Open it up and take a look, then it'll make sense. But yes, you have to remove that fender liner a bit, there's no other way around it.

7 hours ago, Phillyballs79 said:

Im doing the same this weekend, havnt looked for a good spot yet. is this fender grommet big enough to get a 0 gauge wire through? i bought a small 2k watt amp to drive 3 8's. was trying to keep things small, but this 'small' amp needs 1.21 gigawatts and a big 3. (dont shop on amazon while drinking) no buyers regret, its gonna be amazing but i made lots of extra work for myself..lol thanks in advance 

Yes, it’s big enough. I found I didn’t even need to take off the inner fender cover off all the way. I removed 3-5 clips closest to the driver and was able to get in there and see what I was doing. You also have to remove some clips and a cover by the windshield wipers. I would also have some extra fender clips ready, because mine just deteriorated and broke off. 
But you can see the rubbery part that you’ll need to poke through. There’s another bunch of wires or whatever passing through it. I poked through right above it. But I did a sloppy job. Now that I think about it, you might want to have a right angle drill attachment and a decent sized bit to get through there? I’m not sure if there’s enough room to work, because I did it the wrong way and chewed my way through, and the grommet I used doesn’t sit properly now. Oh well. Good luck though! It’s really not as hard as you think it’d be. 

3 hours ago, blackobxt said:

For clarification, I’m not trying to discourage you but I am trying to make you aware of your hurdles and potential results. I honestly think you should try it and report your results.

I will! This is mainly about me wiring in the subwoofer

system and getting everything in place. I wanted to go for a stock look, and not have some goofy sub enclosure hanging out in my trunk. So far I’m pretty happy with the way it’s progressing. I was disappointed at first with the HK speaker swap(which I believe was from a GT sedan) But as soon as I put in the Alpine KTP-445A(which is 2 ohm stable) and cut the lower frequencies, it came alive! Now if my theories are correct, and I get this 09 HK outback sub to work, it should really round everything out. Really all it needs is some bass, and possibly a pro audio tune. I think I did all right with the HU’s crossover but it could be better, and I didn’t even touch the time correction, lol. But definitely, an aftermarket sub is in order. I had the Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 in mind when I picked out the amp from eBay, so that’s what my thought is right now. But there’s also the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW800F…

Ok, I see.. wiring in a series would net 4 ohms, taking the strain off of the sub. Ah….

Just trying to wrap my head around this: my amp is only stable down to 2 ohms. The speaker in question is 2 ohm dual voice coil. Meaning I should only connect 1 voice coil to keep it 2 ohm. Connecting both coils in parallel would result in 1 ohm? 

20 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

Have you checked the impedance of each voice coil? I haven’t found and solid info on the oem sub. 

Sorry, I’m a noob on audio, how do I do that? Do you have a link to a decent video or tutorial? I do have an ohm meter, btw.

This might be for another thread, but does anyone know about the polarity of a stock 09 Outback HK 8” sub? Or a good way to find it? I’m pretty sure it’s dual voice coil @ 2 ohm. It’s got like, 4 posts.. I am at a loss on how to wire it. 
it’s being connect to an Alpine MRV-M250, a 250watt @ 2 ohm mono amp. I don’t believe it’s 1 ohm stable.

any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. I know the speaker might be crap, but I want to get everything in and then decide if I’m going to upgrade it or not.
It’s basically the bracket, HK sub, and cover that goes in the stock passenger rear quarter panel that replaces that little cubby.

thanks!

3 hours ago, AWDFTW said:

If you're getting rid of your OEM underseat woofer and harness, I'll be happy to rehome it.

I’ll let you know. I have to get this sub in the rear quarter panel working first. But if I do, I’m sure I won’t need it

Lol... I can't vampire tap the speaker wires before they go into the HU and splice that in before it hits the sub?