Abductee

Rhitter- I just changed mine out last weekend. I found PN 22641AA42A on ebay for like $90 shipped. Dealer wanted $185.

Since I haven't had a day off since the dawn of time, Wednesday night I dropped in an AEM 340lph fuel pump (PN- 50-1215) and a new OEM fuel filter (PN-42072AG16A). The prefilter on the original pump was pretty gummy and there was some debris stuck to it, but other than that didn't look too bad. I would have liked to have maintained my learned fuel trims over to the new pump, but I erred on the side of safety and pulled the ground on the battery resetting them. Once the initial weird idle went away, things have been much better with my feedback knock issues. I would say easily 90% better. Not that it drove poorly to start with, but the car does seem to drive better. Meanwhile, as I have been working so much, I have picked up a few things for the car. I did go ahead and get the correct gaskets for the oil return line for the turbo, as well as new hardware for the turbo to downpipe. I did some more research and did go ahead and get a new oil return line as well because it looked to be an odd size and I didn't want to take a chance on what I have to try not working. I also lucked out and picked up a barely used ceramic coated Grimmspeed downpipe for $350. If my currently scheduled Oct 5th days off actually happen, then I will hopefully knock that stuff out.

20190908_080509 by David Erdman, on Flickr 20190908_080451 by David Erdman, on Flickr I appreciate your taking the time to look at this stuff

Swapped out front and rear OEM swaybar bushings. Contemplated doing more, but I am still on call for work and I don't want to get to far into something. Started thread in tuning section detailing my FBK issues. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/chasing-feedback-knock-w-logs-280265.html xt2005bonbon - I found the Koyorad aluminium radiators to be pretty high quality and work well. I replaced mine about 4 months ago with Koyorad PN- VHO91662

History- 2009 SWP Outback XT 5mt. I have had the car since Nov 2018. 170k miles on chassis, 30k on engine. Car was purchased from a Subaru repair shop in Broomfield CO by my son about Aug 2017. Short block was replaced for an unknown to me reason. I am not sure what was reused when the short block was replaced, but my son was told the turbo was replaced with the motor. Car drove well when I got it but was needing maintenance items. I took the car to my local Subaru dealer and had them look it over. Inspection came back in good health. I noticed once day the car was running hotter than normal (slightly over halfway on the gauge) and found the sub fan wasn't turning. I changed out the relay and that fixed that. I didn't like that the gauge wasn't more accurate (I like numbers and real data) so I started looking into obd2 readers like I have in my other vehicles. Long story short- wound up with Cobb AP v3. Loaded and ran Stage 0 tune so I can read obd2 values and started watching things. Some research of forums and what not taught me to watch learned fuel values DAM(IAM) feedback knock and fine knock learning. I started noticing from day 1 with the AP a consistent FBK that very very rarely wound up with FKL when driving mostly in traffic or slowly as I shifted from 2 to 3rd, and again when I shift 3rd to 4th. It never happens when pulling away in 1st, or downshifting to say 2nd to turn right even accelerating at the same pace that causes the issue.. Also I have noticed that if when I shift, I hold the throttle steady after letting out on the clutch and then accelerate slowly it rarely will show any FBK. Further research indicates that some FBK at light throttle is fairly common, but only up to a 3.xx or 4.xx amount. I can easily see sometimes 11.xx and 7's 8's and 9's are pretty much every drive, but sometimes there are no issues at all. What I have done- New air filter, CRC cleaned MAF, new Rev9 turbo inlet, all intake clamps replaced with Murray dual bead clamps, smoke tested to 10psi, new OEM intercooler to TB hose, all vacuum lines inspected or replaced, new intercooler orings. I have also tried changing the Stg 1 91oct and 93 Oct tunes. No change with any fixes. I only ever run Shell 93oct from the same station (super busy always fresh gas). Car is bone stock except for the inlet and AP (performance wise). WOT pulls in 3rd gear 2500 to 6200 rpm have Zero FBK or issues. Car pulls smoothly without hesitation. I have included fresh logs from the AP showing some of the instances I have mentioned. I notice that the 2-3rd usually happens right after the fuel pump duty cycle goes from 33 to 66. Fuel filter? I also notice the commanded fuel final seems leaner than i would think it should be, but I am not familiar with Subaru's fuel/timing strategies. Maybe front o2 sensor? Like I said, runs great, drives great. Honestly if I did't have the AP I would have no indications there was anything wrong. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 2-3rd usual 09-06-19.csv 2-3rd usual 09-06-19 c.csv 2-3rd usual 09-06-19 b.csv

Today I changed the oil and swapped out my cooling fans for sti 9 blade fans. I was getting some whine from the right fan and the motor was running hot hot. I figured the stis might be an upgrade. They do definitely move more air than the originals (maybe it's that the motors are fresher). Tid bit of information- the '09 sti 9 blade fan assemblies are about .75" shallower mounting depth than the '09 obxt assemblies. Also, the connectors on the sti fans are female, whereas the obxt's are male. Nothing a little heat shrink and solder can't fix though. I also started disassembly of a 2015 sti steering rack I picked up on OfferUp for $60. It is an OEM unit that was leaking badly from the input shaft. The guy I got it from bought the car used 6 months ago and had it replaced with a reman unit and never got around to repairing it. Input shaft seals are $26. Maybe I fix and sell? Fix and install? Dunno yet. Honestly, I would have rather delved into pulling the turbo today, but I am on call for the week at work now. The hurricane has messed my work schedule up quite a bit and it's not even going to affect us hardly on it's current track. That's the sensibility of a governmental institution for you.

Great information. I read your post this morning and watched my avcs and they were in sync. I had checked the turbo banjo on the oil feed and it had already been removed. I am hoping that the shop that installed the motor before I got the car made sure they were all removed when installing the new short block. I am having a few other weird issues that I will start another thread for to ask some questions. Looks like I may have to delay pulling the turbo. Hurricane headed my way.

The parts counter guy at Subaru mentioned the Cobb accessport back when I first got the car. I didn't want to pay $600 or whatever ridiculous price they are, so I bought a broken accessport v3 that was unlocked for $35 and 2 locked v3's (broken as well) and Cobbled (haha see what I did there) one good ap together for a grand total of about $91. Gotta love ebay. I did grumpily pay $180 for the eh so so training to allow the Access Tuner Race download. I haven't done much except look see and change radiator fan set points. BtSsm looks great and appeals to me more. I wish I had found it before the Cobb stuff. I have read a bunch of the FAQS I have found here and there and I believe I will be switching over at some point. For now the cobb is meeting my immediate needs mostly. Good looking out though. Again thank you all. Very much appreciated.

Thanks for the info guys. Xt2005bonbon- I appreciate the link to the correct hose. Looks like maybe 3/8 or 5/16 i.d. hose. I've got several different sizes of fuel line that will probably work. It's a flanged connection to hose barb at the underside of the turbo. I was referring to the gasket for the flange. Lil'redwagon- I think I have some copper sheet I will use as a gasket based on what you have said and the link you shared. I have some other options as well so we will see. I'll have to see how thick the flange is to estimate clamping force to see if the copper will work. I will definitely change to worm clamps instead of spring. Hopefully the turbo to downpipe and exhaust bolts don't give me fits. Can't be tight if it's liquid though. Hopefully it won't come to that. So far though, I have to say this Subaru is very easy to work on. I have done pretty much all repair work on my vehicles save for auto transmission rebuilds since I started driving 30 years ago and honestly I wish I had picked up a Subaru sooner. Besides, I smoked a mustang with a water heater and a toilet from Lowes in the back. That's pretty cool. Thanks again I'll post results after I get it fixed Sunday.

I didn't think to get a picture. I was using a borescope as its in a pretty tight location as I am sure you already know. It looks like a weep had been there for a while that turned into a drip. It's pretty grimy. Clamp is on the hose and it seems like the hose itself is intact. 170k miles on the chassis, about 34k on the engine. My son gave it to me about a year ago. Previous owner (some Subaru repair shop in Broomfield Colorado) said they had replaced the turbo when they did the short block.

Discovered an oil leak near the oil return flange on the turbo. FSM shows a gasket at that flange. Anybody know what that gasket material is? I have a few options in the shop to make one. With it dripping onto the factory downpipe, I would like to get it fixed quickly. Any advice is appreciated.

Hello

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?prodid=7462 I think I will try this one. Cuts off at 12 psi. I am going to have to get inventive mounting it as it looks bigger than the oem and I would like to keep it in the stock(ish) location. I added the oil pressure gauge because this is the first vehicle I have ever owned that didn't have a factory gauge. Off topic, I too am familiar with v8's. I have 2 mid 80's c10s and an 02 suburban. All are in varying stages of use or builds. This is my first Subaru but 2nd in the family. My wife has a 2015 outback.

I will look into the Longacre product you described. Sounds like cheap insurance. Thanks for the idea. I mounted my oil pressure gauge above the oil pump to have a good idea of oil pump health as well as pressure and use the rear oil galley plug for my oil temp sensor. I don't like the idea of filter sandwich blocks.

Today I installed passenger side front cv axle from Raxles.com. Good price and great customer service. I set and angle finder on the hub at suspension droop before disassembly to allow me to get back to the same camber settings. Also, I removed the (dealer installed?) invisible bra. It had started lifting on the hood and was trapping debris and rain water. After some research I went with Stoners bug and tar remover to remove the adhesive residue. Worked very well. Next will be pull front bumper and remove headlights to clear up lenses and clean out the evaporator core fins.

carljn@gmail.com; ncretter; joe_1985; mtechnic6; emulous; biggggant; saad; Abductee; Might be 2+ years later but why not right? '09 OBXT 5sp SWP

As a comparison, mine runs about 20psi at idle warm and 80psi at 3k rpm and above with 5w30. FSM for the 2009 legacy/outback says 14psi or more at 600rpm, and 43psi or more at 5k rpm. Kinda hard to get a feel for what may be abnormally high with those specs. I have often wondered if my pressure was higher than most, especially at startup. Looks like my operating temp pressures are somewhat normal, but at start up I can see as high as 92psi at idle. Never had an issue though. Always comes down to 20psi once warm. I thought it might have been the prosport sending unit, but I had checked it with another brand and had similar pressures. Sensor mounted off tee at oem pressure switch above oil pump using a remote sensor locator kit for what it's worth. At 2.5 psi I think you have already damaged quite a bit especially at highway rpms.

Just saw this thread. Trade in deal ended 01/01/19.

Hello Gents! Changed out my Trans fluid last weekend, and now have a pronounced whine at 37-41mph regardless of gear or even neutral. Wheel bearing? Fluid levels correct, used proper fluid. I changed to Whiteline shifter bushings and installed a Kartboy shifter at the same time as the fluid change, so maybe I am getting a weird harmonic that wasn't perceivable with 140k miles old rubber bushings? Old fluid looked old, but showed no sign of contaminants. I am a firm believer of maintenance before mods, but if I can do both at the same time- bonus! Wheel bearings, fix the oil leak at the turbo (looks like it might be from the oil return flange gasket), and start looking at braking suspension upgrades next.

09 XT 5MT 15 Limited

And my first post will be a thank you. This answered my questions.