Abductee

Do you happen to have a dome light cover for the light over center console?

Haven't gotten to the skidplate yet but did order a Whiteline BSR39Z rear sway. AVO rear sway braces already on hand. Anybody have an issue with the holes lining up with braces? Looks like I'm about 1/2 diameter of bolt off on sway bar mount bolt.

I have working tgvs with motors from an 09 available if you would like. PM me if you are interested.

Skidplate arrived today. It's not as heavy as I thought it would be. Nice and beefy though. I'll get it on Saturday morning if I don't get called in. Side note- I love this car. We have had some pretty heavy rain the past few days and this car does great. The controls are laid out well and the chassis is pretty confidence inspiring. It is a pleasure to drive when the weather gets nasty.

That looks really good ckwaters. What are the specs on the wheels? Enkei ts10?

220125AR114M12 is rear for F-07 extreme low

I spoke to the tech support guys at BC Racing via email today. They helped me decode the part numbers for dampers. Might come in useful for somebody. 2009 Legacy rear damper for F-04 coilovers is part number 19095AR1125M12. 190mm body length, 95mm shaft length, AR1 is series and rear, 12.5 mm shaft diameter, M12 thread for top nut. 2009 Outback rear damper for F-07 is 320175AR114M12-11. 320mm body length, 175mm shaft length, AR1 series and rear, 14mm shaft diameter, M12 thread for top nut. Not sure about the -11 though. Was told all valving and fluids the same in BR series. Like I said might come in handy for somebody.

I can't think of anything. Definitely bounce the car and roll it forward and back to help the tires unbind from letting it back down on it's own weight before taking measurements between adjustments. The springs will settle over time. You may want to err on the side of higher than lower. Always a good idea to get an alignment after adjusting height as it can affect toe and camber.

Post #43 of your build thread. Looks like a good idea. Maybe I'll see about finding a used one to cut up. Thanks

The under tray was missing when I got the car unfortunately.

I went with the 3/16th as well. Difference in weight was 3 lbs. 14.5 compared to 17.5. The coilovers were 3.5 lbs lighter than the JDM KYB outback struts I had so I figured it was a wash for better protection.

The tune is still in progress. Up to 17 psi with 78% IDC. Shooting for 19-20psi. I am super happy with how things are turning out. Ordered a primitive skidplate yesterday. While this car is no where near as low as my c10, I still can't stop thinking about that oil pan hanging out there.

Additional info here- When I swapped to a BNR 16g, i found tons of oil goop in the intake manifold and throttle body. The cartridge seals had blownout. While I was replumbing the new oil feed lines to the 16g, I double checked the banjo bolt filters that I was told were removed. I found one at the oil feed line to the turbo, which was half clogged. Obviously i removed it. I ran the turbo oil feed from the galley plug at the front of the motor using a combination of ATP lines and earls -4 AN fittings. Now my oil pressure is about 75psi at start up and 20psi at idle with a cruise of 70 psi. Hope this helps somebody.

For those looking for info on similar issues, the knock I was experiencing was caused by my turbo cartidge seals being blown and pushing oil through the intake. When I pulled the vf46 to replace it with a BNR 16g, I found a nasty mess and had to pull the intake manifold and throttle body off to degunk it. Once everything was clean and the new turbo installed, no more knock. Surprisingly, the TMIC didn't seem to terribly bad. I did go ahead and replace it with a Grimmspeed unit anyways. An AOS would have helped, but would simply have been a bandaid over a gash needing sutures. Good luck

Somehow or another, I was unsubscribed to this thread. And here I thought there wasn't much going on! Catching up, in July I swapped to BNR 16g, added GS TMIC, AEM WBO2, GS EBCS, GS AOS, ID720's, GS Intake, TGV delete, air pump delete, and 235/50/17 Federal Evoluzion ST1 tires. This weekend, I installed BC BRs for legacy I got from Itsdaniel in the classifieds, KTA-124, legacy bump stops, legacy control arms, and moog problem solver inner and outer tie rods. Rears are set at max height and fronts can come up another 3/4". I'll probably make a 3/4" spacer for the rear and come up 1/2" in the front. Ride is surprisingly good and mostly no rub. Backing up turning left just a little on front left inner.

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Group n transmission mount is for 5 or 6 speed?

Legacy? Wagon? Sedan? Might be good info to add

Interested in F+R wagon as well

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Over the past month I have changed my battery, changed out the front and rear o2 sensors, swapped in a Grimmspeed downpipe, changed spark plugs, changed MAF sensor, and fiddled with AccessTuner modifying OTS tunes all still chasing this elusive feedback knock I keep experiencing. Each step of the way it gets a little better, but it is still there. I also picked up some Nameless 5" axlebacks from freaksavior in the classifieds. I know that's not going to help with the FBK but they sure do sound good. I still think the knock is related to fuel delivery somehow. With the replacement parts and the tuning, I have it narrowed down to light throttle at .80-.84 calculated load between 2000 and 2600 rpm, and same load range after a shift to 2nd and 3rd. Happens mostly in 5th on the highway cruising in traffic. I have read several places that it's pretty common, but I am anal and I don't want it at all. Next is going to be PCV assembly, replace knock sensor, replace coil packs and maybe the STI fuel damper swap. 2015 STI steering rack is rebuilt and ready to go in, but I am going to hold off till I can the rack, all the bushings, and coilovers at the same time.

Bump for some great deals. Become a happy customer just like me!

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