wi_legacy2016

Protect the several thousand dollar CVT and leave it be.

Really neat graph you made there. Is that the MPG readout from the car or calculated by miles driven/gallons added to the tank? I'd say my 3.6R averages about 20MPG in winter and about 24MPG in summer according to the car so probably 1-2MPG worse than that.

The heat that comes from my 2016 3.6R gradually gets warmer as the car warms up. It seems to be at least close to operating temp after about 10 minutes of driving. Maybe a little bit longer if it's below 0 degrees F. I love the full auto climate control that gradually increases the fan speed as the car warms up so that it's not just blasting cold air in your face while it's still cold.

I'm probably about 300 miles south of you in Madison, WI. As much as I am a fan of sedans over SUVs, there's a big difference between what I see in a year vs what you'll see (~50 inches vs ~200). I'd probably go for the Forester if I were you, but if you do go with the Legacy, you'll still be better off than basically any other sedan on the road. Some of it depends on how quickly they plow the roads you drive. Where I live, sometimes I need to use my car to push some snow for a couple of short roads going out of my neighborhood, but after I make it a half mile, I'm to a road that gets enough traffic to where ground clearance becomes moot.

Bought my 2016 3.6R used in November 2017 with 17,800mi. I now have 38,600mi. Hard to believe I've had it almost 2 years already. 17 mile round-trip to work doesn't pile on the miles too quickly.

I second this. If you're going to be doing your own oil changes and keeping the car for several years, a Fumoto valve will be well worth it.

Interesting article. A quick look at the top list may imply sedans are less reliable than trucks & SUVs, but I have a different theory. Trucks and large SUVs are more expensive than sedans. So when a vehicle reaches say 150k miles and an engine or a transmission goes out, perhaps people are more likely to spend the big money to get it fixed for a truck or SUV because if they don't, a new vehicle similar to what they had is likely $40k+ vs more like $25k. Notice how none of the SUVs on the list are small crossovers that are probably under $30k new. I have no evidence to back this up, but it seems logical to me. Regardless, it's nice to see the Legacy towards the top! Although it's worth noting most of the 200k mile vehicles are old enough to where it may not mean much relative to the reliability of vehicles made in the past few years.

Out of curiosity, did you test drive a 7th gen Legacy, or just know on paper that it's not right for you?

Believe it or not, don't floor the car from a stop. It at least feels faster if you smoothly press down the gas pedal over the course of 2-3 seconds. I don't know if it actually gets to 60mph faster this way or if it just feels that way.

It's time consuming (to do a whole car), but fairly easy. Watch a video on Youtube and pick up a clay bar kit. You just have to make sure you keep the surface lubricated (a kit you buy will have a lubricant included). If you only care to do the windows, it'll probably only take you 10-15 minutes or so.

Interesting, my driveway is definitely one that would be considered steep, but I don't have this issue. My 2016 doesn't have RAB, but it does have rear traffic alert. Also, there's a flatter part for the sidewalk and the transition to the road. Maybe it'd be different if it was steep all the way to the road.

Not to be a d***, but try using the forum search before making a new thread. A common question like this has multiple good threads on it already.

I'm a fan of the low mileage, but this one does not have Eyesight. If I were you, I'd find one that has Eyesight so you get adaptive cruise control and all the other goodies that came along with it. But some people want a simpler car. If that's you, this may be an ok deal. I didn't look it up on KBB or anything, but it's definitely one of the lower trims so I suspect it may be a little overpriced.

I think Farm and Fleet is specific to Wisconsin and surrounding states, but I got a 7 year "platinum" group 34 battery from there today for $95. Came with a spacer so it fits great. 800CCA, 985CA, and 3 yr free replacement (prorated refund after 3 years). Hard to beat that! Since the 34 battery has a larger perimeter than the stock 25 battery, I cut the little heat shield that was around the original battery, and essentially expanded it by taping some pipe insulation to the ends so that it could fit around the new one. I arranged it so that part is by the headlight since I doubt that side does much anyway as it's furthest from the engine.

Just over 460 miles for my 3.6R. The range had just gone blank a few minutes before filling up. I think it added about 17.2 gallons. I'm sure the amount of weight in the trunk didn't help

Statistically speaking, you shouldn't plan to expect the warranty to be worth it. It's not a sustainable business model to charge people less for the warranty than what the average payout will be. Of course there are people who will benefit from it, but the majority will not. It's essentially car repair insurance. If you decide to get it, it should be because a large auto repair will otherwise be more than you can afford.

This is interesting because I feel the opposite about my 2016 Head Unit. I primarily use my phone to bluetooth to my car and I gotta max out the bluetooth volume on my phone so that I don't need to set the car volume to 40/50 for some decent volume. I know they aren't the same head units though.

Not exactly. Works pretty well using my Galaxy S9 using Google Play Music. The issues that happen on occasion for me are it'll show a different song in the playlist on the screen than the one that's currently playing, and about twice a week it'll stop playing in the middle of a song. Once I skip to the next song it's fine again. Interestingly, my older and cheaper Sony Xperia X worked flawlessly when that was the phone I used on a daily basis.

Subaru later added 2016-2017 to the CVT warranty extension so you will be covered to 10 years/100k miles: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-warranty-extension-my-2016-2017-and-now-my-2018-275654.html I love my 2016 3.6R. I bought it at about 18k miles and am a little over 37k now. No issues for me yet.

Yesterday I got Bridgestone RE980 A/S tires put on. I was leaning towards the Continental DWS06s, but there was a $70 rebate through Bridgestone and 10% rebate through Discount Tire for this set and I decided that was too good to pass up. A few hours later I drove through a really bad rainstorm. My dashcam picked up my drive through the rainstorm. Here's a video of probably the most intense portion. You can see the front left tire pushing lots of water up, but even then the car felt very stable. https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6SEH5nncBipTye6A I've read some concerns about these tires' effect on fuel economy vs similar tires, but it's too early for me to judge that.

I'd be interested at the point when the original ones get old and need replacement. Not interested in replacing them before they're actually going bad.

I know, not impressive. I've been on mostly flying vacations in the past couple of years. Was nice to drive somewhere this time although still not that far.

I'm curious to see how far people have gone with their Legacies. I just got home a couple days ago after a trip about 460 miles to Cedar Point in Ohio from Madison, WI. This car is so comfortable! I got about 29MPG on the way there and about 27.5MPG on the way back (I could tell the wind was mostly against us coming back). Interestingly enough, it looks like the Crosstrek that parked next to me had come from much further!

Either is fine for the 3.6R according to the owner's manual. I bought mine used and it had conventional until the first oil change under my ownership at about 24k. It burned maybe a half quart of oil before the next oil change, but after that I haven't noticed any burning of oil so maybe it was just that transition period. I didn't notice a difference in how the car runs before and after, but I buy oil on sales so it's <$20/yr more to run synthetic vs conventional, and that's worth it to me living in the cold Wisconsin climate.

I never had problems with keeping the car going straight before or after my 20mm rear sway bar, but it sure reduces body roll around corners. My route to and from work has multiple roundabouts and the effect is quite noticeable there. I wouldn't be unhappy with the car without the upgrade, but it's a big enough difference to warrant the fairly cheap upgrade IMO.