Deer Killer

AUX IN: need to modify connector i85. (8-pin connector with a white insert) You will not be able to use steering wheel controls or the oem subwoofer after this mod. Although if you bought more pins you could use the steering wheel controls, here they just get reused because I will never do that mod. i85 pins looking at it from the front: .TT. 1234 5678 8 is the green wire, this is the only one do not modify and leave in place (see pics) Remove the rest, cut them from the car, and solder to your wires as below. Removing the pins can be difficult, you need the right shape tool and some patience. First you must remove the white guard at the back, and then remove the pins. I used the probe below. You must go in through the front of the connector and lift up the plastic tab behind the ridge on the top of the pin. I won't lie, this is almost like picking a lock. This is how you should plug them back in: 1 - Left 2 - Right 5 - Audio ground (not body ground) This should be the shield in your wire, as you should use a 3 wire cable, one shield. (see pics) 6 - AUX box detect. This pin needs to go to body ground, for safety I added a 300 ohm resistor. I just sent this wire around a screw in the back of the radio.

Does the radio plug right in to a 2005? Yes. The CD changer, radio, and XM satellite all work. The climate control is fully operational as well. Does the Auxiliary input work? Yes there is a switched logic line that you need to set to make it selectable. How-to below Is there any reason I would not want the 07 radio? 1. It is slow to select CD's and tracks because it looks for MP3's. 2. Your OEM subwoofer will no longer work, will need an 07 model and/or harness What are the part numbers I need? There is speculation about this as it it appears the face plate and the radio have been split up into two parts, it's possible we won't really know until someone orders one OEM, but it is expensive if is the case ($950 shipped). You do not need to AUX box, as you can follow the instructions below for AUX input. Please double check this with your parts guy before you order: 86201AG67A Radio Ay Up2 $450 86213AG65A Panel Assy $400 Techincal information: Model on front: P204-UH. Supports MP3/WMA playback (not WMA Lossless) with SRS WOW surround, auxiliary input, and XM satellite optional. It has soft on and off, and greets you with "SUBARU" when powered up. Extra connector for satellite receiver control, it is controlled through the front panel only. Clarion XM unit model: EF-12475 attached to mine. On the clarion unit the bus connection is marked as "SIE-BUS". This appears to be the 20-pin Kenwood cd changer output found on other Subaru radios i.e. GX-201. I confirmed this using the pinouts and an oscilloscope, they are all there. Splicing in cd changers, ipod adapter, etc, should be possible, as well as hands-free phone kits and navigation - depending on what's available on the market now. This connector has been available in Australia and Europe at least, so it needs to be investigated. The Sirius models on Impreza's and Foresters are a different type and will not fit (without at minimum a physical adapter). See these threads http://www.subaru.com.cz/viewtopic.php?t=175&start=0 They are hooking up a Kenwood C929 MZ-Bus CD changer through an adapter that just changes the connector type. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12513 Auxiliary input is available through 4 pins on connector i85, the connector has to be modified to do this, as the wires are not present in 05. The "super woofer" connections are no longer present, OEM subwoofer no longer supported through that output. The 07 subwoofer feeds off the main radio connector http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/down...?doc_id=139266. I tried the NAV input, it appears dead, although not completely sure how this feature works in a car with NAV.

It's likely they just don't have the eye to notice.. That seems to be most common, in general, but seems a bit exaggerated in the automotive aftermarket..

Well I can tell those pics go back to the endless site, but I can't for the life of me find the link _from_ their own website. Also the carbotech link is dead. Can't anything on Hawk's website.. Tire rack says they have pads from -30C and up to 0.6 mu but no information on the pads there either. EBC has some info on mu but no temperature range and everybody says they suck... I'm wondering if the spec-B pads are actually a bit better and just get those, for oem prices.. I'd just like a mild upgrade that's going to help pedal effort/feel/initial bite, work all season from below 0F to 100F, and not suck in some other way that is inferior to oem..

Where are we supposed to find all the temperature and friction coefficients? I've been going through all the manufacturer websites and they don't have specs listed either.. Which is extremely fishy, but still useless. The only information I can find is on project-mu, but all their brake pads start at 0C, consider it's going to be below freezing for most of the winter here, does me no good.

Above 3k it gets muffled by the turbo anyway.. At least when you're not free-revving.

Has this thread become a joke on other car forums yet?.. Just curious

I've had my 76 cents of exhaust for a while now.. too lazy to put them in.. :/ If only there was a bolt that could be easily changed or servo-controlled. *hmmm*

Yes, but they enter the cabin anyway along with clutch stink, WTF do they think they're going to accomplish???

Yeah, well if you put the $3 bolt on your DP and UP they will break.

Well I hope cobb's going to fix that. I almost laid down the cash last week, and that was only because I expected it fit. Otherwise I woulda gotten bars a long time ago.

details!

Aftermarket exhaust cans = dumb. Use washers.

I get a very loud bassy drone around 1000 RPM with only one cat. Good for waking up the neighbors while going very slow.. I wonder what the washers will do to it :/

Technically a performance exhaust is an exhaust leak Rice = washers OR Rice = 4" tipped fartcan? hmmm..

That's cheating

If you use mild steel and they rust over, it might just look rusted out vs modifed if you get pulled over. Just a thought. Just washers :/

How many $/HP does that come out to?

Yes brilliant, proving how retarded most of the auto aftermarket is. Yeah, let's pay a few thousand dollars for louder mufflers.

idea -> the $0 exhaust mod, take the exhaust gasket and cut out the middle with some sheet metal shears. :/

You should have them thermally coated and sell them for $150.

Does it come with an off switch?

It's possible that this serial protocol could be one of the few major ones in use for external CD changers, however it's just used internally. If it is and you find out which one, you can possibly get 3rd party changer interface and just splice it in..

crazy idea: Get an FM transmitter, have it transmit silence Tune FM radio to your silent station Use the jazzymt board. eh? Not silent enough?

Generic 100W H3's ~<$5 about 80 days, between 30-80 lights-on miles per day. That's not much... but it's whiter (and actually brighter, vs whiter and dimmer for tinted bulbs) than stock and probably comes out to a much better per-dollar value than any tinted bulb you can buy. i.e. from the above numbers I could run these for ~320 days and equal the cost of _one_ pair of silverstars. Of course it would be much longer than that because come summer, they get very little use. Screw the fad bulbs. Might as well buy a tornado gas saver that "spin" the air for your turbo car.