ToolTime

On 5/31/2023 at 7:01 PM, motorbreath said:

My understanding is that a 3 BCS is essentially a requirement for a stage 2 tune, along with an aftermarket BPV or BOV in your case. The Q300 turbo-back was a good choice IMO, sounds great at WOT but not obnoxious around town.

Look up how the stock BCS works, it is very difficult for it to meet the boost set point due to the constant bleeding of pressure to the waste gate.

See my build thread for the boost curve with basically your setup, a Nameless BPV, and Grimmspeed 3 port BCS, and a tune.

I appreciate the input, I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy the 3 port. Sounds like I wont regret it.

On 6/3/2023 at 7:18 PM, Falcor said:

In the process of swapping out the trashed passenger side top hat (and perfectly fine drivers side) with group n. These should hold up way better. The other set only lasted about 3 1/2 years with the Koni/Eibach setup.

Are the Group N top hats just a simple swap? They fit the same?

Just got Hardrace engine mounts in today, took a month from Australia. Doing all 3, and the front mount comes in a nice blue color I'm looking to have them done soon.

I'm also due for a tune from Cryotune, how important do y'all think a 3 port BCS is for stage 2? Here are my supporting mods:

• Invidia Q300, Invidia Downpipe
• Turbosmart Kompact
• New coilpacks and those "fancy" NGK Ruthenium plugs 

I just want reliable but relatively safe power

14 hours ago, Falcor said:

I don't have the Stage 2 maps, but I do have 3 versions of the Stage 1 high waste gate map that Cobb sent me while troubleshooting my car. 

They still have all of those on their website free to download, I currently have the Normal Wastegate but might switch over to the Stage 1 93 LWG map until the tune just to be conservative if I can't get a stage 2 because I've still got to drive it sometimes.  I appreciate the though!

10 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Digging into it, looks like Cobb did release some maps for 2010/2011, but stopped.  2012 only had 220ish LGTs so they didn't invest there.

According to the wayback machine, the last time it saw the 2011 maps was Feb 2012: https://web.archive.org/web/20120205210247/http://accessecu.com/accessport/subaru/lgt/LGT-Map-Grid.html

Still trying to see if I can find them archived somewhere...

I appreciate your help!

I did find this https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2945211

but it only lists the 2010. I have the OTS Stage 1 maps but can't find if there was a 2011 Stage 2 or not

Anyone have the OTS stage 2 maps for a 2011 LGT? Cobb stopped supporting them officially but I need something to hold me over till I can get a custom tune for adding a downpipe/j-pipe.

I was able to get some OTS stage 2 maps but they were for a "2010" and the accessport wont let me use them because mine is a 2011.

Thanks

6 hours ago, Scubaboo said:

Why would the Megan bar rub when the stocker doesnt?  The few mm in diameter its thicker shouldnt be make or break I think, unless its shaped differently from the stock bar?  

I was having the rub issue before I installed the megan sway bar. I thought I had installed the exhaust not quite high enough or didn't get a good adjustment. It was very dark and late when I was putting it together on ramps/stands. I had hoped since the car was going to be at the shop doing the clutch and valve cover gaskets they'd readjust it while putting the new sway bar on. Turns out they tried but it's now touching the new sway bar. 

I saw another post on here about the engine mounts sinking and that's the only thing I can think would cause this.

14 hours ago, Andy Bromfield said:

That is welcome news. I am pleased to hear that you have seen a tangible benefit.

Once you replace the sagging mounts you should be golden.

I will install mine soon and provide my thoughts.

I sure hope so! I'm looking forward to your feedback.

I have good news bad news.

First, the megan sway bar is nice and I think it fits well. The front end is very noticeably firmer.

The bad news is my 3" invidia turbo j pipe/downpipe is making contact with it and it's very loud in the cabin now.

Good news: My engine mounts are in pretty bad shape and have lost 3/8-1/2" or so of height. It looks after 115k miles they have deformed and the center stud has sunk. I think this is my problem. Otherwise I don't have any complaints. But we'll see.

My manual GT was doing this under load and boost, it was quite scary to feel it jerk so much. For me it ended up being my coilpacks and spark plugs. Most if not all of the coilpacks has started to rust a de-laminate. A couple of them had cracked housings too. I wasn't getting any check engine codes or misfires. They were losing their connection when the car was under acceleration. I replaced all of them with NGK coils. They are the OEM man for subaru but for a fraction of the price.

It's been a while since I gave them the car, but I am still waiting! I had dropped my car off for a clutch/flywheel (xclutch stg 1), master cylinder, slave cylinder, valve cover gaskets, and that sway bar. But then one of the two mechanics that own/run this shop was in a wreck and broke his back and his foot, so the other guy is running behind on everything.

I'll update you as soon as I get it. Should be this week. After reading up on the tS I'm extremely interested in adding some of those components now.

You'd need to get the trouble codes from the ECU, it could be any number of things. It could just be a sensor not reading or anything really. Does the engine still idle and run ok? Any other symptoms?

I just bought the Megan front sway bar, my mechanic still has my car but I'll check back in after I've had a chance to drive it. I looked at it when it first came in and I'd say that upon first inspection she's certainly beefy. I am also running the STI rear sway bar in the rear but I have Kartboy endlinks on the front and rear.

Do you feel the difference with all that bracing you've added?

On 4/13/2023 at 11:26 AM, motorbreath said:

I have not heard of them until now, but if they are decent quality I am definitely interested. My only concern is that if they are solid and not hydraulic, how much additional NVM will make it into the cabin. Does anyone have experience with these? I mainly use my car for around town and long trips with family, so its already a bit rough for them with the 12-13 OEM springs and KYB dampers...

I haven't seen anyone using their stuff on this forum but other Subie forums say they're decent. Sounds like either you or I will be the firsts. People say the engine mounts are good for street/light track use. I've read their mounts don't add any noticeable NVH. But if you're tracking the car you're probably buying those Kein solid mounts.

On 4/13/2023 at 11:28 AM, motorbreath said:

They also sell a "brake master cylinder stopper", that seems interesting, my mechanic friend says most Subarus have alot of flex in the brake pedal because of this.

I want this too, and it's all such a nice shade of blue. But I'll get to that when I start working on getting into a Brembo swap, either the 4 pot or 6.

Anything you see on their Aus site can be ordered from the Hardrace USA rep as well

https://www.hardracesuspension.com.au/parts-finder/subaru/legacy/bm-br-2009-2014/

I myself am very interested in these because mine are rocking a bit too much for my liking and I already did the transmission mount with the Subaru Group N part. I feel like the excess movement is going to strain my newish tranny mount. (it's been about a year)

Have you looked into the Hardrace engine mounts?
https://hardraceusa.com/collections/legacy-5th-gen-bm-br

They're a good Australian company, same as OEM but they recast them with nicer stiffer rubber.

On 4/4/2023 at 4:15 PM, Falcor said:

I'm pretty sure I'm giving in and doing the same. As much as I want to do it myself, I really do not have the time. Just hate other people messing with my car. 

Doubt the city would like you working under your car on the street.  

 

I feel the same, it's anxiety inducing especially when you don't have someone you 100% trust. This is my second time going to this shop and they really know their stuff and seem to care/put extra effort in.  Jury is still out though

The city doesn't care, I often do my oil changes/fluid changes and suspension parts. It just can't take more than a day and you need to watch your tools (some people are nuts, most are nice). Maybe try not to make a lot of noise and clean up after yourself, and nobody seems to mind. What's annoying are people asking what I'm up to/feeling compelled to tell me about their cars.

@motorbreath  When I changed mine I used a bottle that had a one way valve on it instead of a vacuum bleeder. But using this method you can do it alone. Just crack the line open, then go pump your pedal 3/4 the way down several times. Check the reservoir every so many, refill as necessary.
I have the exact same issues going into first and second. I put Motul in but maybe I should do a flush and do it again or try a new fluid. But we'll see how it feels with the new parts. I'm still waiting for them to finish the repairs.

13 hours ago, Falcor said:

Are you doing the work yourself or having it done at a shop?

Yeah I'm having it done by a my local mechanic, the streets of Philly aren't exactly easy to work in lol. I don't have many car friends around here or know anyone with a lift. But I do have a jack and ramps/access to a flat space at work but I can't do long projects there.

Some day I'll have a garage space and buy a lift but that's just a dream for now.

On 3/24/2023 at 1:28 PM, Infosecdad said:

If you want "forever" look at the Verus forged clutch fork and matching pivot ball.

https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0163a-forged-clutch-fork-wrx-1108

I did strongly consider it but I ended up with a new OEM one, I'm already in deep with the other parts and I don't know if the car is going beyond stage 2. Hopefully that'll be good for now. It's still in the back of my mind.

12 hours ago, creep_nu said:

might as well change out the shifter bushings while you're doing all that work

You're right! Do you know which are good? Perrin? Long lasting?
2015+ WRX are the ones we want right?

7 hours ago, GTEASER said:

Make sure you do the clutch damper delete if you haven't done it already.

Already done

So far the parts in hand list is:

- Goodridge 24222-CLU SS clutch line
- Rocky Japan Slave Cylinder 37200020111 (oem man. & matches part 30620AA192 for half price)
- Master Cylinder 37230AJ030
- Xclutch FSU103C
- Xclutch XKSU23015-1A
- Pressure Plate Bolts 800508310 (x6)
- Flywheel Bolts 800610740 (x8)
- Clutch Fork 30531AA180, springs 30534AA001, 30539AA000 (x2)
- Pivot Ball 30537AA061
-Ate Type 200 1L DOT 4

I think that's everything!
Coincidentally I'm doing the valve cover gasket/spark plug tube seals, and a nice and shiny Megan Racing 28MM Front Sway Bar (MRS-SU-0395). It's blue so you know it's good. I've already put the STI rear one with Kartboy front and rear endlinks. I was having trouble fitting the front links on but it turns out my swaybar is bent (???). Hence the Megan.

I hope the car feels nice and solid after this money bath 
 

Welp I've already decided I want to replace the clutch.

I'm just going to replace the Master, slave, SS clutch line, clutch fork, bearings ect and put in a Xcluch Stage 1 Organic with their Chromoly flywheel to match. I'm tired of dealing with this and it's got 115k miles, I want it to be good forever.

I feel like it's a combination of both. The car already had a little hesitation getting into first but it was nothing a little wiggle couldn't solve. I had the trans oil replaced last year with Motul, and the rear diff. But recently I've noticed it felt as though the clutch was not totally disengaging, I'd feel a little resistance pushing it out of first. Rowing through the rest of the gears felt normal.

It would only be hard if the car was sitting for more than a day.

When I went to change my fluid I noticed I had significant amount of black swirled into the fluid and in the reservoir. I've also noticed that the gears are harder to shift between until you pump the pedal a couple of times. I changed the fluid, did a flush and bled the system but it hasn't 100% solved the shifting issues. Any guesses?

Maybe the seals in the master? Clutch line going bad? I've already done the damper delete.

Any word on where the leak is coming from? I just started to have a very similar leak coming from what looks like the oil cooler. On my old legacy I had the same problem but it was the oil cooler, so that's my first thought. I want to assume but it was very hard to tell exactly where it was coming out >:| ordered the oil cooler gaskets and hoses and we'll see.

Oh boy oh boy, I spent a long while looking over oils and such.

I used to use 5w-30 Castrol Edge exclusively, seemed ok really. It's what I used on my old 06 Legacy GT. But after reading around and watching that Project Farm video where he does a comparison on a bunch of oils I was sold on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Amsoil level performance for half the price (or more). Ever since I switched I noticed the car was quieter and made less ticking sounds and seems happier. (but that could just be in my head).

I don't have to worry so much about the cold since Philly rarely gets that bad.

That and a Wix XP or Mazda Tokyo Roki filter N3R1-14-302.

Car is happy, I am happy.

On 9/11/2022 at 4:22 PM, FLlegacy said:

The hose clamps have a special tool to remove/install them its available on amazon fairly cheap.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Pliers-Clic-R-Mercedes-Collar-Repair/dp/B07F8W7QNM/ref=asc_df_B07F8W7QNM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16663866057527646614&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012169&hvtargid=pla-570939762903&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=65583250281&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16663866057527646614&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012169&hvtargid=pla-570939762903

I ordered them! Thanks, I've been using a pair or wire snips with moderate success but I hate these things enough to buy those pliers.

On 9/17/2022 at 12:38 PM, Falcor said:

I just checked and the closest 93 octane to Pittsburg (south east KS) is 30 min away. 

Luckily down the east coast I can reliably find 93, and I sometimes keep a bottle of octane booster just in case of questionable gas.

I bought some BBS lugnuts, black. My oem ones were looking beat up and it was hard to find a nice alternative that weren't super expensive. But hey they were $40 and are black powder-coated stainless, look great. Flushed the brakes with some ATE Type 200, rotated the tires, installed my Kartboy Front endlinks and got an inspection. Turns out my front sway bar is bent (yay) and my control arm bushings are spent Had to cut the old endlink off with a grinder because they were so rusted.
Anyone have any control arm suggestions? OEM?

On 9/7/2022 at 9:13 PM, Zee199969 said:

It really is awesome how just a quick tune can change the car. I'd recommend a protune if possible, but for now enjoy!

it's great, best upgrade to any car by far.

I tried the 91 map just for fun and it definitely wasn't as nice and responsive (on 93 oct fuel). Back to the 93 but I'm sticking with a Low Wastegate option to help with overboosting just in case. The car has 110k on it and I'm trying to have responsible fun.

When I get the downpipe to match my q300 I'll probably go for a protune. Living in Philly there are some good shops within driving distance. But if anyone has any recommendations I'm happy to hear about them

On a side note I changed from a Bosch dot 5.1 fluid in the clutch to ATE Type 200 dot 4. I found the feel of the 5.1 was too soft, even though it has a longer life span I don't think it's great for these cars. I'll be flushing the brakes tomorrow as well. There is a little black in the clutch fluid and I think a seal is breaking down. I just changed the fluid a few months ago and it's already dirty. There was a lot of black buildup inside my clutch damper as well when I took it off. My mechanic and I pulled it apart to have a look.
I've had some issues with getting the clutch to feel like it has a reliable grabbing point and I hope I've solved it.

I suspect there is also a vacuum leak somewhere. When coming to a stop and shifting into Neutral the car will dip to 500-600 rpm and rough idle for a second before bumping up to 700 rpm and being stable. Same happens when I start it cold. The PCV is new but the connector below it that attaches to the block looks like it's leaking. I have a new one but those hose clamps are such a PITA. I also noticed my brakes are rock hard in the morning. When I pump them once or twice while the car is running my AFR Correction will spike to 15-20%. Sometimes it maxes out and does the stumbling. Brake booster leak?

Thanks for the info. I'll probably try and make it work like you've done until I can't deal with it anymore or it causes issues

*shrug*