Notorious

Always check your oil... you own a Subaru. Check at least once a week, keep the hood popped overnight so you remember the next morning, keep a small rag tucked in the engine bay for convenience to wipe the dipstick. Top off the oil when necessary. Do what you gotta do. The three things you listed are the prime suspects, but there could be more things wrong with it after being run with half the oil it needs. Check for leaks, you could do a head gasket test and check for milky residue in coolant (signs of bad heat gasket), replace PCV. Usually, it’s more cost efficient to let the car burn the oil and just keep topping the oil off rather than rebuilding the engine. A 6 quart box of synthetic oil at Costco is about $30.

How much play is in the wheel (laterally and vertically) when both sides are jacked up? Wheel bearings, among other things, can cause the wheel to wobble which will sound like what you described.

That spill free funnel pays for itself. I used to jack up the car to bleed coolant but I stopped because it didn’t prove to do anything. A few times I tried bleeding with the funnel first, and then trying again after jacking it up. No bubbles came up. Just an extra step if you want to be extra thorough. Might get a few more bubbles but the turbo reservoir is the highest point in the system already.

TGV delete gains are already negligible and using these won’t noticeably benefit a daily driver. For higher power builds, sure. If you got the cash. Spend money elsewhere or get the cheap TGV delete setup (porting the stockers) if you just want a daily driver.

-5 cool points

Adjust the dampeners on the top of the struts.

Buy the spill free funnel from your local auto parts store and never hassle with coolant bleeding again, or making a mess. Use the funnel on your turbo reservoir, fill with coolant, start and warm up car. Squeeze the radiator hoses until bubbles stop. Turn off car, let it cool down, remove funnel. Done.

You can usually invert any signal with a 4 pin relay. Not sure if that work given the situation though with different voltages, good luck!

The only OEM one I have is the catted up pipe that came with the car. Idk if cashing out for an STI up pipe is worth it to use once every other year.

I’m due in June. Gonna need to swap back in the stock down pipe and up pipe and hope the latter doesn’t blow up the turbo in the process. Can they fail me for visual if I leave the FMIC and piping in the engine bay unconnected? Not trying to reroute those things again. Of course I’ll be using the OEM top mount as well.

Not sure if I have the same symptoms but my front drivers side wheel bearing is shot. Check for play on the wheel when it’s off the ground.

Which hawk pads do you use for track? Curious.

All Spec B’s have the same brakes as the LGT, which like mentioned earlier is the largest caliper Subaru makes short of the STI Brembos.

JB weld on mine held up 18.5psi no problem for 25k miles until I went front mount.

DiodeDynamics and ProfilePrism are your two best options. DD has the best customer reviews and will last longer with a longer warranty but does not have Bluetooth or switchback functionality with the RGB halos. They have a unit that is RGB only and one that is switchback only while the ProfilePrisms can do both.

Much is left to be desired but better than OEM.

Aesthetically, they have RGB remote controlled halo LEDs, painted gloss black reflector delete, JDM yellow reflectors, clear coated (although not perfectly) also have HIDs and LED turn signals and running lights

They were custom made by me.

Turbo blanket is fine, works better than a heat shield. No need to wrap headers. Down pipe and Up pipe are fine to be wrapped but people are cautious about wrapping the up pipe because it may get soaked in oil if you have a leak, same goes for the headers and that’s a fire hazard

I commend you for the hard work you put into this system and the video tutorial, but there is a much simpler way to do this. The JazzyAux mod + RCA->aux cable + an aux to Bluetooth unit powered through the cigarette lighter will work just fine and also gives you controls for the Bluetooth. Yes, my method is more expensive (~$85) but less than the JDM conversion and much less work than what others have done.

As far as 2019 models, the Audi A4/A5 are probably the only ones left.

Photoshopped, but hopefully this livens this thread up as well because there are some beauts in here. Someone sell me some bags lol

How comfortable are you with wiring and wiring diagrams? It’s not a simple swap as just inserting the engine and transmission. You will need a shaft from an automatic Legacy GT and a lot of other parts from a Legacy GT to make the 07 STI transmission work. Let alone all the wiring to make the EJ257 work. Wiring harnesses need to be split, ECU needs to be swapped as well with either one from the STI or a Legacy GT. Plus you’ll need to wire up the DCCD controller. It’s much easier to swap in a full Spec B transmission. With enough time and money, anything can be done. It’s up to you if it’s worth it or not. Much easier and cheaper to find a Legacy GT and either travel to it or ship it home. I drove my Legacy GT over 5 hours home and I never regretted it. I also had a 2.5i before in an Impreza but with head gasket issues. Sure I could’ve swapped a WRX motor in there but it was never logical or worth it to me, I still miss that car but the GT is much better.

I would really reconsider this choice if I were you. It would be much easier and far cheaper to find a clean GT and ship it across the country than to swap both the engine and the transmission. The main things you can salvage from the 2.5i is the body shell and interior. Even if yours are in pristine condition at 300k miles, I wouldn’t go through with this.