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Scottydunno

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Posts posted by Scottydunno

  1. Do tell!
    So, many moons ago, I fried the rings out of my freshly rebuilt 2.5 turbo engine for my Daytona Shelby. Myself and a friend did an "in-frame" overhaul. We both forgot to torque specs of the arp rod bolts and torqued them down to OEM specs...

     

    Well after about 10k miles, a starter, and some knocking, I found my rod bearings destroyed like pictured above. My educated guess is that the person either used an impact gun on the hardware or just simply overtighten them..

     

    Scotty

  2. Had a bit of a science experiment day yesterday. Tore into the trans from Scruit's car, which had been towed by the front wheels. The trans proper is fine, but the center diff was well seized and one preload washer was shattered. Managed to open the non-serviceable center diff, and found that the clutch disks in the viscous coupling were cooked. Trans is totally repairable, and the FSM is very thorough when it comes to shimming/lash setting procedures so I think I'll give it a shot. Why not?

     

    Highlight was teardown of the seized EJ255 that came with my wagon when I bought it. Attached pictures show the absolute worst rod bearing I've ever seen. Paper thin. It actually got pounded so hard it extruded into the gap between the rod and crank. The piston on that rod was damn near brand new - it almost looks like someone tried to replace the piston and replaced the bearing 'for good measure', and didn't check clearances or anything. Super tight bearing = extrusion?

     

    Surprised that the case halves are good - guess I have a set now.

    I think I know what happened there.... I've done similar...

     

    Scotty

  3. For sure. Certainly wasn't trying to dissuade you. I thought all the lgt had side feed at first and wasn't upset to find out I had top feeds. Sounds like you're on the right track then though.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    No worries. I'm still fairly new to these cars, but not afraid to research, learn, and of course have fun. I'm not new to turbo cars as my toy is an 89 Daytona Shelby. But I appreciate what input you may have.

     

    Scotty

  4. I used 08 wrx rails and FPR, with rubber fuel hose bridging the rails. I have a shot of it in post 2 here:

    https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-thread-time-280134.html

     

    If I had to do it again, I'd use 11-14 WRX, or 07-09 LGT rails/FPR. Reasons being, FPR sits on the driver side of the engine, and the line ends should actually bolt up to stock manifold points.

     

    I used IAG TGV deletes because my schedule got accelerated, but any factory top feed TGVs will work. If you're interested, I have mostly complete top feed deletes from an 06 WRX. Just need the gasket surfaces sanded.

    Thank you! Exactly what I was asking for! At that point, I can mod the TGVs and delete them while I gather parts and eventually get time to do it.

     

    Scotty

  5. Well they aren't exactly easy things to see, but the 08 and later (and maybe the 07) use top feeds so you could just use those parts.

     

    You'd need injectors, fuel rails, tgvs. I think that's it but search around. This is a common mod and you should be able to find a walk through. Are you planning to move to a bigger turbo.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I know I'm going to go a bigger turbo, I just don't know which and what I'll need to hit my goal of 300-350 whp. I know I can do it on larger side feeds, but I've heard of tuning issues when going bigger than a 740cc. Personally, whether it's true or not is in material. In all my years of cars and what not, I've never had issues with top feed style, but side feed/TBI style injectors, not so much.

     

    Scotty

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