-
Posts
391 -
Joined
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Scottydunno
-
-
I drove through that storm yesterday. I think I'll pass on driving on I89 in Vermont and New Hampshire from now on....When I got in the wagon to go to lunch after cleaning off the snow/ice from the storm here in VT, I noticed the mileage, 285,000.Scotty
-
You don't say? You have any part numbers?My engine builder used King bearings for my all forged rotating assembly on my turbo dodge engine. I have always heard positive reviews.Scotty
-
Arp specs was 45 ft.lbs, OEM spec was 35 ft.lbs plus a ¼ turn! The rods are also factory forged too!That's crazy, the caps deformed that much from over torqueScotty
-
So, many moons ago, I fried the rings out of my freshly rebuilt 2.5 turbo engine for my Daytona Shelby. Myself and a friend did an "in-frame" overhaul. We both forgot to torque specs of the arp rod bolts and torqued them down to OEM specs...Do tell!Well after about 10k miles, a starter, and some knocking, I found my rod bearings destroyed like pictured above. My educated guess is that the person either used an impact gun on the hardware or just simply overtighten them..
Scotty
-
I think I know what happened there.... I've done similar...Had a bit of a science experiment day yesterday. Tore into the trans from Scruit's car, which had been towed by the front wheels. The trans proper is fine, but the center diff was well seized and one preload washer was shattered. Managed to open the non-serviceable center diff, and found that the clutch disks in the viscous coupling were cooked. Trans is totally repairable, and the FSM is very thorough when it comes to shimming/lash setting procedures so I think I'll give it a shot. Why not?Highlight was teardown of the seized EJ255 that came with my wagon when I bought it. Attached pictures show the absolute worst rod bearing I've ever seen. Paper thin. It actually got pounded so hard it extruded into the gap between the rod and crank. The piston on that rod was damn near brand new - it almost looks like someone tried to replace the piston and replaced the bearing 'for good measure', and didn't check clearances or anything. Super tight bearing = extrusion?
Surprised that the case halves are good - guess I have a set now.
Scotty
-
Finally hit the 200k club!
Scotty
-
I did a google search with the part number. I ordered one from a local parts distributor ( Tasca Parts ) for about 60bux shipped to my door..Where'd ya get the replacement actuator?It comes with the bracket, but the video I watched showed the replacement done by unscrewing the actuator from the bracket.
Scotty
-
Holy crap! That thing scoots!
Scotty
-
Finally replaced the blend door actuator... I'm never doing this again.
Scotty
-
Anyone have a set of saggy butt spacers they are willing to part with? Looking for either 3/8 or 1/2" ones..
Scotty
-
Was that STI seat a "bolt on" affair? Or is this a totally custom deal???
Scotty
-
Winter wheel/tire setup installed today...
Scotty
-
Swapped on my winter wheel setup. First time on legit snow tires since ever.. any tips? I know how to drive in the snow, that's not an issue, just tire specific stuff I guess.
Scotty
-
I love seeing videos like this. Thanx for sharing
Scotty
-
To a degree yes. However assembly lube will eventually ooze it's way out and sit in the pan. Main priority is to ensure oil is everywhere before the first start. Last thing anyone wants is to spin a bearing because everything is dry and tight..Isn't this the main purpose of assembly lube?Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Scotty
-
2k away from the 200k club! As always, topped off the oil and surprisingly the power steering. There some dampness on top of the pump. I assume that's the O-ring I hear everyone talks about on here.. other than that, gave it a bath, degreased and cleaned the interior, cleaned the wheels and made it to a local meet..
Scotty
-
Dude... that's most probably gonna be my next modification!Posting the finished product here, but more detail on my build thread (link below). Made a custom arm rest for the drivers door to elevate my elbow and add cushioning for greater cruising comfortScotty
-
My thoughts exactly...Oh nicewut
So today I thoroughly examined the car after all the wind and downed branches from the other nights storm.
I got lucky!
Scotty
-
Thanx everyone. Looks like shopping, accumulating parts, and tuning will be in my future. Thanx again!
Scotty
-
I found and read your thread. Good stuff.https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/top-feed-injector-plug-220861.html?t=220861&highlight=fuel+railThis is what I did.
I paid like 80-90 bucks for a 07+ fuel rail from the junkyard. My total was $795 for 1000cc top feed/tgv delete/8mm spacer mods.
Now if I use stock 07+ LGT or even 11-14 WRX injectors, do I have to retune?
Scotty
-
No worries. I'm still fairly new to these cars, but not afraid to research, learn, and of course have fun. I'm not new to turbo cars as my toy is an 89 Daytona Shelby. But I appreciate what input you may have.For sure. Certainly wasn't trying to dissuade you. I thought all the lgt had side feed at first and wasn't upset to find out I had top feeds. Sounds like you're on the right track then though.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scotty
-
Thank you! Exactly what I was asking for! At that point, I can mod the TGVs and delete them while I gather parts and eventually get time to do it.I used 08 wrx rails and FPR, with rubber fuel hose bridging the rails. I have a shot of it in post 2 here:https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-thread-time-280134.html
If I had to do it again, I'd use 11-14 WRX, or 07-09 LGT rails/FPR. Reasons being, FPR sits on the driver side of the engine, and the line ends should actually bolt up to stock manifold points.
I used IAG TGV deletes because my schedule got accelerated, but any factory top feed TGVs will work. If you're interested, I have mostly complete top feed deletes from an 06 WRX. Just need the gasket surfaces sanded.
Scotty
-
I know I'm going to go a bigger turbo, I just don't know which and what I'll need to hit my goal of 300-350 whp. I know I can do it on larger side feeds, but I've heard of tuning issues when going bigger than a 740cc. Personally, whether it's true or not is in material. In all my years of cars and what not, I've never had issues with top feed style, but side feed/TBI style injectors, not so much.Well they aren't exactly easy things to see, but the 08 and later (and maybe the 07) use top feeds so you could just use those parts.You'd need injectors, fuel rails, tgvs. I think that's it but search around. This is a common mod and you should be able to find a walk through. Are you planning to move to a bigger turbo.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scotty
-
So, I want to do a top feed injector conversion on my 05. I also want to keep it stock looking. What factory parts can I use to do this?
Scotty
OEM vs King Bearings
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted
Scotty