Neal Cassady

1999 Impreza 2.5RS (eventually EG33 swapped)/1985 BMW E28 then 1990 240SX (SR20 swapped, Silvia front end) > 2006 LGT Wagon 5MT (now 6MT) to replace the 2.5RS 29 years old. Had the 2.5RS before I could drive (15) and it stuck around a long long time. Still miss the sound of the EG33. Miss the light RWD fun of the 240SX too.

Finally found some time to do a final test fit with an updated 3D printed bracket. All is looking good so I’m now reaching out to suppliers for quotes. As well, I test fit OEM Legacy GT wheels over the calipers and radial clearance looks good, but a spacer will be needed for spoke clearance.

Under car lift/downforce is driven by the venturi effect to create high speed/low pressure air under the car, whereas a traditional wing achieves this high speed/low pressure air on the underside of the wing by forcing the air to travel a longer distance as you described. A long splitter/rear diffuser reduce lift by increasing the Venturi effect (generally). The front splitter also pairs with a vertical air dam to increase the pressure differential and the rear diffuser if position correctly with the rear wing can have beneficial interaction to reduce separation, as Boxkita mentioned earlier. Some of the 80s F1 cars, Group C and Le Mans prototypes did essentially have wing shaped side pods/tunnels, combining the wing shape and Venturi effect, but that’s going beyond what we’re looking at with a road vehicle.

You won’t want the front air dam touching, “ground effect” due to the boundary layer thickness limits how low to have the front splitter. Ground effect can be quite difficult to model though in CFD.

If you’re going to put in the work to make the passenger side work, may as well go with Evo X Recaros =p I found they are a significant step up in support company to the WRX/STI seats.

Low quality screen shot, but have a look as this Instagram. Apparently is just a small triangle of material that gets removed.

Yes, already have ran some FEA. Since one mounting point goes through the hub and adapter bracket and the upper mounting point is very close to the hub mounting point and is sandwiched to it with the adapter and an oval washer that both upper bolts go through, the adapter bracket is under very little stress. I’ll get some more detailed images up of that upper “sandwich”, easier to visualize compared with just a description.

Thanks! Glad I was able to inadvertently oblige. Handling for the most part, with the side benefit it allows the wheels to fit nicely without a roll. I get fairly even tire wear after a track day and since I’m running zero toe I have good tire wear on the street as well. Koni struts don’t work with outback housings, I mistakenly grabbed an outback strut when I needed a new housing and it’s too long. Check rock auto or eBay for the cheap no-name front LGT struts to cut up, that’s what I did when I needed a replacement housing, I think it was $30-$40. Cheers

H&R lowering springs, Koni adjustable struts, 3/8" rear saggy butt spacers, Whiteline Com-C front mounts (set to max camber/caster), Whiteline roller centre kit, Whiteline RUCA adjustable rear camber bushing. Front & Rear Camber: -2.0 to -2.2 Zero toe 17x8 +35 Regamasters 225/45R17 RE-71R Fenders untouched (rubber strip removed from rear arch lips) No tire rub at all, previously had 235/40R17 Direzza Star Specs, also no rubbing.

Which tab/spacer are you referring to? Welding could be an option for end users, however not something I would do in the kit as it isn't necessary with the clamping forces. With the way the kit uses one of the OEM hub ears and has a very small span between the up mounting point and the hub, its not hanging off of the bracket along like a lot of custom brake brackets. I will likely do a small run of extra kits since there will be a minimum order to get parts for myself. Custom front brake lines are needed too and I've contacted Techna-Fit about doing a run of these once I'm closer to install. Example of random bracket where both caliper mounting points are separate from the hub and only supported by the adapter bracket:

Here are some CAD images of how the kit fits together, the spacers are needed to get the caliper centred properly on the STI brake disc. Upper caliper ear is sleeved from to fit an M12 bolt to match the OEM Subaru caliper bolts (although lengths are different). Lower caliper ear hole is enlarged and an eccentric bushing inserted to allow it to use the lower ear on the Subaru hub, but maintain proper pad coverage. It is possible to install the caliper without this eccentric bushing, however pad is no longer concentric to the hub (see last 2 attached images comparing the pad position on the rotor). As well, some data on the bias/piston area (all values are approximate): Front: OEM LGT, Rear: OEM LGT, 72.2% front bias, 24.7 kg (front & rear caliper + rotor, for one side of vehicle) Front: 17Z + STI Rotor, Rear: OEM LGT, 74% front bias, 5% increase in piston area, 22.6 kg Front: 17Z + STI Rotor, Rear: STI Brembo, 75% front bias, 1% increase in piston area, 24.9 kg

Check out car-part.com You can enter your zip code and see inventory at nearby yards and often they will ship if they’re further afield. May not quite be as cheap as $25 a caliper, but could probably get a pair for under $200.

Elongated the holes won’t work, it puts the caliper too close to the centre of the hub and poor pad coverage. I mocked it up in CAD as an early concept, too close to edges for comfort and it wasn’t worth the modification effort. Generally poor design to have a slotted/oversized hole like that on your brakes. The 17Z holes are not threaded and are meant for an M16 bolt. You could maybe tap the hub but again the elongated holes had very marginal material left. The kit is not quite a straight forward nut plate, but that’s essentially the concept. I’ll add some more detailed photos tomorrow. I’ve test fitted 3D printed versions of the brackets, just haven’t had time to source proper prototypes and then do the first batch of parts.

Not doing anything on the rear, factory LGT or STI 2 piston Brembos give relatively decent F&R bias (close to factory to not affect ABS etc) and maintain pedal feel. As well the handbrake complicates things. A 4 piston caliper in the rear is going to be a lot more piston area and I don’t know that even upgrading to a STI 1 1/16” BMC would be sufficient to maintain good pedal feel and travel. My goal with this kit is to have equivalent performance to STI 4 piston Brembos, maintain close to stock pedal feel and bias, with the option to improve using the STI BMC, have 6 piston S402-esque looks, at a much lower cost compared to buying even STI 4 piston Brembos, and signifcantly less than VA STI 6 piston or S402 6 piston Brembos. I also want it to install with minimal modification (though some minor Dremel work will be needed), have proper pad coverage, fit under 17s and weigh less than the factory 2-piston sliding caliper. At the track, the factory LGT brakes with good pads and some brake cooling are quite good. This is more of a looks upgrade than anything.

2004 and 5x100, as previously covered.

I'm working on a kit to make the Brembo 17Z (04-06 Touareg and others) work for the LGT/Subaru hubs. Fits the STI 326 mm OD rotor. The caliper does not bolt up, it needs a bracket and a small amount of grinding on the hub/caliper. I'm designing the kit to fit under 17's. Let me know if anyone has questions! I'm also looking at a solution for 18" wheels using a 350 mm rotor and either 17Z or 18Z calipers. 18Z calipers are meant for a 350 mm OD rotor, compared to 330 mm on the 17Z. cheers

Next time you install/remove it, do you mind taking some photos of the turnbuckles and other underside mounting points?

2007 STI 6MT installed, working on buttoning up the rest. Centre diff of the 5MT was not enjoying life before this swap. Quite the amount of fine metallic material in the gear oil.. Still need a DCCD controller but will be able to be back on the road. Any opinions on MAPdccd vs DCCDPro (Spider)?

What sites/sources are you using in Russia for JDM parts? cheers

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Other than the 3.3 ohm resistor you already tried I haven’t seen anything else. Have you plugged in other things like the seat position sensor and the belt buckle? I think the resistor goes in the plug that the squib would have connected to, the buckle and seat position sensor require different methods to fake the reading, not sure if they can be done with just a resistor. Easiest would be to plug in your OEM belt buckle and seat position sensor and stash them under the seat.

Where did you find the Ganadors??

From a local wrecker, they were ~$1000 CAD which is quite good for these seats. They're often in the $1200-$1500 range depending on condition. They would also pop-up on Facebook marketplace in my area from Lancer Ralliart/Evo part-outs. "Lancer Ralliart" seats usually go a bit cheaper than Evo seats since they usually don't have as much Evo tax (just Recaro tax).