Somac

18G is street friendly, but the VF52 will definitely be more usable, especially if you're only shooting for 300whp.

Using an AP V3 now. If I go EJ20X, I'll switch to open source and monitor though BtSsm. QUOTE=xt2005bonbon;5856278]Also, have you thought about closed deck blocks? IAG sells some of these. Not super expensive for what you get I think. Still not cheap though. https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Stage-3-Closed-Deck-Converted-Case-Halves-p/iag-eng-1910.htm The car is and will always be a daily driver for me, so I have no intention of doing anything serious with the motor. I'm happy with the power level it's at and the stock rods, pistons, and block itself should be good for 300-350whp reliably if I'm not beating on it all the time with the right upgrades. With the Killer B oiling parts, banjo bolt filters being removed, maybe braided oil lines, as well as the upgraded radiator, the motor should take it. Even if I get another EJ255, I'm going to get another tune and dial it back a little bit (and maybe go flex fuel).

Yep, car was tuned by Corbin Johnson with all of the mods on the car. When the car was tuned, apparently the PO was told by Corbin/TiC "See you in 6 months when you need a short block," because of the power/torque and mileage on stock internals, and that was about a year ago, so the car (unfortunately) made it longer than the estimate.

That CanJam STI makes some serious jam. I got to see it race at Speed Ring and I don't think many of the other high-dollar competitors were expecting it to whomp them. M1 Concourse is a really terrible course, though, and I feel like the STI had a big advantage over the GTRs when it came to how hard the track is on the brakes for heavy cars. That webbed piston design is also crazy to see. It looks 3D printed - is it actually?

Making very slow progress in the spare time I have. Motor is mostly stripped down. The Perrin inlet is one of the biggest pains in the ass I've ever dealt with. Even getting it off was a nightmare. I have a feeling it's going to be even more fun getting it back on. The turbo is still looking pretty healthy. Zero shaft play. Hopefully a good cleaning will be enough. Should be looking at a motor this weekend. Looks like the presents under the Christmas tree are going to be a little smaller than normal this year. Going to be ordering up a new Aisin timing kit, ARP head studs, a new oil cooler, and OEM gaskets once I pick up a motor.

Does the spec.B have a different set of components in the fueling system department, too? Different FPR or something?

E85 on an 18G is asking for trouble on stock internals. That's definitely in the "plan on a short block" territory.

The Legacy spec.B 6MT is essentially the same as the STI 6MT, minus the gearing change and DCCD missing. It's not like the later 5th gen Outback/Legacy/WRX 6MT that is actually a "5+1MT" or "5.9MT" that is just as weak as the normal 5MT with an extra gear.

Nice work so far! Looks like it's gonna be super clean.

Oil was full, but was about to be due for a change. I had actually just picked up some oil and an OEM filter for it in anticipation of hitting the mileage mark. I haven't been able to tear down the motor yet. Lack of space and time is killing me so progress is slow. This weekend is going to hopefully be a big progress weekend. I've actually been talking with him already - he's pretty local to me, thankfully! Planning to meet up with him soon. He may be the answer to another one of my big problems, too.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/somacs-05-outback-xt-progress-re-build-thread-jdm-ej20x-276806.html?t=276806

Blew my motor so I'm back to saving money. I may cash in on that to buy a motor though!

The rear gallery plug is an M18x1.5 plug. If you wish to use it, you must replace it with an OEM (or aftermarket) adapter plug. The OEM adapter plug, such as what comes installed in the front oil gallery, adapts to 1/8 BSPT. Aftermarket plugs adapt to 1/8 NPT.

The Defi senders already have the proper 1/8" BSPT threading necessary to bolt into the stock sender location, so no adapters necessary. Any other aftermarket brand will require an adapter. Defi has the part numbers listed on their site.

I use a Defi Advance oil pressure gauge in mine. I'm very happy with it. The only brands I would really trust are Defi and AEM. Prosport is known to fail and when it's something as critical as oil pressure, you don't want to go cheap.

The breakdown. My oil. I wish this was just a close-up of some Java Black Pearl paint, but my oil decided to shine bright like a diamond. Currently exploring vendors for EJ20Xs. The biggest hurdle is probably going to be getting a downpipe made and finding a tuner that's willing to tune it open source with bigger injectors and different intake on a JDM ECU. Going to start pulling parts off of this car and get ready to pull the motor this week. The goal is to have this car running in under two months so I can take it to Sno*Drift.

How's it going guys! I guess I'll make a thread for this car now that I'm going to dive deeper into it. I had an '04 Outback 5MT. Project thread can be found here: https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?19975-Somac-s-04-Outback-Wagon-How-to-Ruin-a-Daily-Driver and presenting my current Outback. I sold my '04 Outback and bought the other car I wanted ('06 Infiniti G35 coupe 6MT) and missed having a Subaru, so I got an '03 Forester XS 5MT, then sold that and got my current Outback. It's a 2005 Outback XT Limited 5MT. OBP single tone paint, just like I wanted my BH9 to be, with an EJ255 and 5 speed manual. Black leather interior, big ol' double sunroof that is leagues better than my BH's sunroof was, and an overall nicer experience that I'm so happy with. I bought it with just about all of the performance mods already done, which is a lesson I should have already learned, but I figured I'd save myself a good chunk of money that way. Lesson learned, the motor spun a bearing less than 1,000 miles after buying it. I was just cruising at 45mph and lost oil pressure. Towed the car home, changed the oil, knocks like crazy. Now it's time to rebuild. The current mod list is: Last updated 12/03/18 Engine/Drivetrain: Stock EJ255 internals - Blown up 12/01/18 Kinugawa TD05-18G Perrin TMIC Perrin turbo inlet Perrin pitch stop Cobb SF intake + SF airbox Cobb EBCS Vibrant UEL header Grimmspeed EWG up pipe Tial 38mm wastegate Grimmspeed downpipe P&L custom 3" exhaust with Vibrant resonator and Vibrant mufflers ID1000 injectors AEM 320lph pump Moore Performance top feed fuel rails AN fuel line conversion Tomei adjustable fuel pressure regulator TGV deletes Koyorad all aluminum radiator Cobb AccessPort SUB-002 V3 Protuned by Corbin Johnson OEM WRX single mass flywheel South Bend Stage 3 Daily clutch Kartboy short throw shifter Kartboy shifter bushings Killer B EJ25 ultimate oil pickup - Waiting on install Killer B windage tray - Waiting on install Suspension/Chassis: King raised 1" springs KYB Excel-G struts Whiteline rear sway bar AVO rear sway bar reinforcements Whiteline rear diff bushings Subaru Group N trans mount Subaru Group N motor mounts - Waiting on install Subaru SPT lower chassis brace - Waiting on install Tow hitch Brakes/Wheels: '05 Legacy GT calipers, rotors, and pads Sport Edition A8-2 17x7.5 +48 wheels Bridgestone Blizzak 225/60R17 tires Exterior: JDM Legacy sport mesh grille '08-'09 Outback tail lights Morimoto Mini H1 7.0s - waiting on install Tinted windows Interior: '07 Subaru P204UH radio conversion w/ aux Momo shift knob LED map/dome/trunk/courtesy lights Weathertech floor liners The current plan is to swap an EJ20X in. Not entirely sure if I trust the turbo anymore so I may use the whole JDM twin scroll setup if I can make it work with my Perrin TMIC. If I end up sending my turbo out to get inspected and cleaned and it comes back good, I may reuse all of that but we'll have to see.

Free bump for this thread. Tons of fantastic information and I see lots of people asking about doing JDM swaps lately. This is probably the most comprehensive thread around. Great to hear that you got everything running smoothly. I didn't realize there'd be such a difference between facelift and pre-facelift JDM motors.

I can't remember which, but I know some states on the east coast, even with strict no reciprocation/no CCW licenses allowed, they'll still let you drive through no problem as long as you don't actually stop to stay in their state. Driving to DC though, I feel like you shouldn't have any issue. I'd be real sketched out about letting the movers handle them unless they were all in locked cases/a safe. The ammo and safes I wouldn't care about who moved, but the guns themselves I'd probably try to take with you personally if you can. I had a hell of a time choosing calibers for some spare lowers I had sitting around. There are so many meme calibers now and they're fun but I still shoot my 5.56 and 7.62x39 guns more than anything else.

Just realized this place is the same as the one with the other front end in your color that I was looking at. Good to hear that they're good guys. https://www.ebay.com/itm/273153723933?ViewItem=&item=273153723933 Can't find any JDM facelift 32J front ends.

It's just for safety's sake. Every kid out there is going to try to make more power than they should, and being in the tuning game, you know that the very first person that gets blamed any time there is a problem is the tuner, regardless of true fault. "My tuner is obviously the reason my car blew up when I tried to do a WOT pull in 4th gear at 1500rpm." Plus, who wants to have to buy new injectors every time you want a little more power? It's better to only have to buy injectors once or twice, rather than buying 750s, then 850s, then doing a top feed and 1000s, then 1300s... It's why most tuners will just recommend 1000s right off the bat since it leaves you open to do what 90% of guys eventually do without losing too much resolution.

Most tuners don't exactly like maxing out the IDCs on a customer car or cranking up the base fuel pressure too high. It doesn't exactly leave much room for safety. Typically on E85, for 300whp-400whp, 1000cc are recommended. 400-500, 1300cc recommended.

Top feeds are not required. However, the injector choice with side feeds is pretty terrible and not many tuners like tuning side feed injectors, not to mention that once you get to a certain level (1000cc+), you literally have no side feed options. If you know right off the bat that you're planning on going E85 and making at least 300whp, you should just do the top feed conversion with 1000cc or higher injectors. Otherwise, they'll hold you back.

They still have their 50% off trade-in program. Trade in your V2 and get 50% off a V3.

Yes, 6MT is shorter, IIRC, because the shifter has the reverse lockout collar that sits lower than the bottom of a 5MT knob and the boots attach differently because of that.