Ninjacheezit

yup, I kept that and have it mounted by the pitch mount.

 

Forgot about that sensor until you mentioned it. It does run with the air pump stuff. So it might actually be safer just to delete the connectors that aren't used anymore and leave the actual wiring alone.

So I removed my air pump months ago. Got tired of seeing the connector hanging there so I unbolted the ground in front of the fuse box and disconnected the wire from the fuse box.

 

I noticed a lot of over wires hooked up to the air pump fuses. Could these be deleted also with no problems? Looks like it might be a big job so I wouldn’t do it until I end up doing my engine rebuild.

ya its the black piece circled in red.

Found out why it wouldn’t fit.

 

The wrx/sti power steering bracket/alternator tensioner is shaped differently then the LGT. On the LGT the tensioner bolt is straight up And a lot taller and gets in the way of the cover while the wrx/sti angles to the left.

 

Found a bracket close for cheap paid $10 for it and it worked.

 

Only other thing that I’m not too worried about is the ac compressor and bracket is also different. So the other bracket on the ac that bolts to the cover also doesn’t reach or fit.

 

But I’m sure 2/3 mounting points is good enough and if my ac compressor ever goes maybe I’ll get a sti one to replace it.

Ya I did read the gt manifold keeps the temps down more than the sti aluminum manifold. Didn’t see anything mentioned about the flow besides the 2.5i na manifold have equal runners and that would be better than the LGT manifold but no proof was given for that.

 

Only reason I went with the sti swap was because I just had a vf48 Laying around from my last car. So no reason to get a vf52 when it’s basically the same turbo. I found the tmic and manifold really cheap. So I get an upgraded tmic and turbo in one go. And I like the look of the sti manifold. Not because of the red I actually painted mine wrinkle black.

 

I believe his reason for not wanting to go above 19.5psi on pump or tmic was more of a safety concern. Not wanting to push it and cause excessive amount of heat. Which I don’t mind just because I do daily my car and I do want it fast but reliable.

Also yes it might just be for my setup and I misunderstood him but that’s where I’m at either way stuck at 19.5.

 

But Ill give them a quick message and see why exactly they don’t tune past that on a tmic or pump gas.

So I’m thinking about adding a FMIC to my build. My tuner doesn’t tune past 19.5 psi on a tmic or pump gas.

 

So kinda want to do both front mount and e85. The e85 is the easy part but the question is what front mount do I get.

 

I don’t have the legacy gt turbo or manifold anymore I’m running a sti set up. So finding a sti fmic kit that will bolt on the legacy gt seems to be my problem.

 

Most of the kits I see for the sti run completely different paths than the gt. I did find this one https://www.dsgperformance.com/ets-front-mount-intercooler-kit-08-13-sti that looks like it would follow a good path without any hassle.

 

I would have to remove or relocate the washer bottle but the real question is the core itself. Would it fit behind the bumper on a gt since it was sized for a sti.

 

I don’t really want to buy one and hope it works.

Anyone with a sti or wrx cover know if the cover fits flush on power steering bracket or is there a gap?

 

Assuming the aftermarket ones will sit flush since they give you spacers.

This bracket is the oem sti one. It just doesn’t fit right or I’m doing something wrong.

So I got tired of looking at my belts and pulleys and thought a 07 sti alternator cover looks nice and nothing too much.

 

Read on here that it fits without any metal brackets. So I ended up getting on.

Now I tried installing it and it won’t fit.

 

At first it felt like it was just my turbo inlet was in the way so I pushed on it. But then it wouldn’t go on straight I noticed my alternator adjuster was in the way. Also sitting it where it would fit. I noticed there is a good 2 inch gap between the little bracket on the power steering pump and the bottom of the spacer on the cover.

 

Anyone install one of these? I see there is two other brackets one that goes on the other side of the alternator with a bushing and one that goes on the side of the ac compressor.

 

But don’t want to get any other brackets to make it look stock until I figured out why it won’t go on. Also looking at some install guides for a grimmspeed alternator cover on a sti. It looks like it uses the same bracket on the power steering pump.

 

Any ideas?

I actually just had a problem like this. driving normally around don't smell anything everything seemed good. When I get on it pretty good after I stop I could smell coolant.

 

smell wasn't coming in from the inside but definitely being blow in from the engine bay.

 

First thing I noticed one of the 90 degree hoses to the oil cooler had a slight leak. It would drip down on the exhaust manifold and burn up. It was so small the only was I found it was looking at my oil filter I saw dried coolant on it and that was the only hose around. Turned the car on drove it around for a bit and got back under there. I could see coolant around the inside of the hose.

 

After replacing that still had a smell. Not as bad as before but still I noticed it. Looked around the engine bay only few things I noticed that could be the problem. The upper rad hose had driver coolant around the part on the radiator. So just replaced that just in case.

 

Also the overflow coolant hose that runs from the turbo reservoir to the overflow tank. On the outside it smelt like coolant. I bought a wrx reservoir and it came with the line. Not sure if the smell was just dried coolant on it or if it was just going bad. The whole line didn't smell until it got to the little metal line that goes to the radiator.

 

So far I haven't smelled anything else. But I don't get on it that much so time will tell. I know you said you replaced everything besides those heater hoses but I would double check everything anyways just to be sure. Looking for dried coolant or anything wet. If you do see any dry coolant clean it up drive it for a few days see if it comes back.

Forgot to check back in. Everything is on and I have no rattling whatsoever.

 

The Konis are really nice even at 1.5up front and 1 in the rear it isn’t too bad to daily. Yes it is bumpier but not bad. Feels a lot sportier.

 

Might pair these up with Jdm pinks in the summer. But then again I might not.

I actually talked Koni they said it could work but it would be easier just to cut some of the bottom where the bolt screws into. That way it pulled the bumps completely in and I don’t have any risk of rattling. It ended up working out fine that way. Was really nervous about it but the customer service rep I talked to insured me it would be fine lol.

I got 3/4 of my Konis in. Ran out of time before I had to get to work.

 

At first I thought I was having the same clunk from my kyb strut mounts as everyone was talking bout. Pulled over and my strut mount bolt was really loose. Tightened it up and it’s all gone.

 

Can’t really say how it feels right now. Have them set to full soft until I finish the last one tomorrow morning. Then plan on trying 1.5 from soft up front and 1 from soft in the rear as I’ve seen quite a few people suggested that one here.

Just install the engine and go. Just if you ever decide to do a timing job make sure you pick up a set for an 11 Impreza instead of a 09 legacy.

Well he actually measure the 40mm so they should be in more than mine.

I would probably say instead of 40mm I probably cut off around 43mm so they stick out half way but not all the way out.

So my Koni yellows can in and tonight mounted the insert inside my spare strut bodies.

 

So I’m guessing I didn’t cut it short enough. I’ve read that the bumps on the insert are suppose to be drawn completely into the strut body. But mine are maybe half way in?

 

They don’t wiggle around and feel solid. But basically would this be a problem? Am I better off cutting my oem ones when I do my install to get it to the right height? Or should I just go with these and keep my old ones just Incase there is a problem?

I’m actually surprised you want more oversteer.

 

I added a Jdm 20mm rear sway bar and poly bushings almost a month ago and this thing actually feels like I’m steering the car instead of it wanting to plow into oncoming traffic.

It does have a tad bit of under steering on slight corners if I’m just cruising. But add a little more gas and it’s completely neutral again.

 

But when I’m driving on some back roads having a little bit of fun. It goes whenever I steer it to. Honestly if I had any more over steering I swear my tail end would Probably completely kick out.

i said maybe about the heads.

 

I did a little more digging. I wouldn't go exactly what that website says. I checked the engine block on their to see what would show up and same thing it was only the 08-09. The block is the same thing within all those cars I sent you.

 

Also a little more I found out. anything from 06-11 ej2.5 sohc will fit. Those are the years that have the VVT solenoid. Of course you MIGHT have to swap some sensors if they used different connectors. But other than that those years are the same exact engine.

Is it a pzev? If so it’s 07-09 for a complete drop in.

Impreza 2.5RS 99+

Impreza 04-11

Legacy, Outback (North America) 05-12

Legacy [bL/BP] 03-09 (Europe)

Legacy [bM/BR] 09-12 (Europe, with 123 kW (165 hp; 167 PS))

Outback 03-09 (Europe)

Forester 99 (SF), 05-10 (SG, SH)

Baja 05+

Saab 9-2x Linear 05, 06

This is all of the cars that uses the ej253 motor. Heads could be different on some of them.

 

The only big difference I know about is the pzev uses a return less type fuel system. So you would have to reuse your fuel lines and Intake manifold.

Would the group n mounts work? I looked up the wrx oem strut mount and it’s a different number compared to the legacys.

It would clink and clunk over uneven surfaces and some bumps.

 

 

KYB 5806 was one of the sets tried. The other sets were for MY00-04 Outback, MY05-06 Outback XT, and MY07 specific Outback XT (I think that's the 5806 iirc).

 

 

All of these were assembled with new KYB GR2 struts for MY07OBXT and new Rallitek overload stock height springs. Only the OEM didn't clunk.

 

 

Though the KYB rear shock mounts have been working great.

Thanks my 07 legacy gt uses not the 5806 I had to look up the 08 model to get the non spec b versions to show up. I’ll probably try them out at first when I install my Koni yellows. If they clunk I’ll just defective return them and switch back to oem for the fronts when I do my sti pinks.

07 OBXT

Fwiw I ended up installing oem strutmounts after trying 3 different, brand new KYB sets and all of them having an audible suspension clunk after being installed properly on new KYB GR2 struts. The oem for MY2007 felt the same on the bench but when installed the clunk was not there.

 

 

The KYB rear shock mounts worked fine though.

 

When did it clunk? Randomly while driving? Or over bumps?

Anything else done with your suspension?

Also anyone have any experience with Monroe strut mounts? The quick struts I got are barely used and the bearing says it was made in Japan FBJ brand.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

Hopefully m sprank sees this and puts his input about them in.

So basically the title. Would I have any problems with pub strut mounts over the oem. I work at autozone and I can get kyb for $30 each while oem online is more than double that. Also lifetime warranty.

 

I got the mounts off the shelf just to see the quality. I couldn’t see any brand stamped on the bearing itself. Also the box says made in China.

 

What do you guys think?