Ninjacheezit

That doesn't look like it will seal. Post a picture of each side with intake manifold in the picture as well.

 

1-2 passenger side 3-4 driver side I couldn’t really get the passenger side manifold in the pic since the turbo is in the way

https://imgur.com/a/yF82xSl

It would work as long as you are careful and precise. If not, will be leaking anyway. Put whiteout on the plug, then slide the gasket on top so you know where to "make adjustments" lol.

 

If it was my engine, I would get those plugs out and replace with the correct ones. Sometimes a Torx socket grabs better than a hex.

 

Ya the gasket actually made the exact location and size of the hole I did to drill out if I end up doing that. Guess the material rubbed off and left a perfect grey circle.

 

I just tried the hex still no luck. I think I might just try the hole and hope for the best. And if it doesn’t seal I’ll just take everything off and think of a different way I guess. What’s the best way to check for manifold leaks? Soapy water? Or would it be audible?

Actually just looked yes my code reader reads both of the values. One is map was at 26.8hg and the other was baron which was also 26.8hg. Didn’t have my map sensor plugged in at first so I thought I did something wrong it was ridiculously high while the baro was at 26.8. So looks like I should still be good to go once I figure out the manifold problem.

Don’t have any ap only a code reader. I modified my car so fast completely skippped the ots tunes and going straight for a dyno. My code read does have a lot of values it reads I can see if it reads it. Does the barometric pressure have a n abbreviation on the logging software you guys use?

If you can't tighten down the hex anymore, might be the wrong length. I have had machine shops replace plugs with the wrong ones. It should be completely flush. Good luck

 

Well they are short Like 1/4-1/2in big. The hole for it is well over 2 inches. Only way it it shouldn’t go down is if it’s npt I think that’s the thread that gets bigger towards the top don’t remember exactly. But either way I tightened it down too tight and I can’t even get them out anymore. The hex is rounding. I’m just wondering now if I should just drill a hole through the spacers. That way it won’t interfer with the spacers and gaskets.

Alright I’ll get those up tomorrow it’s dark out now

Not sure how to post pics but here is a link the red circles are where the plugs are athttps://imgur.com/a/EZ5zXCY

 

And here is the gap

https://imgur.com/a/CC2AIF7

Okay so finishing up my sti turbo swap I ran into a little problem. I bought iag’s manifold spacers so I can fit my turbo inlet pipe. Well I was bolting it down and I noticed a little gap on the front of the drivers side runners and on the rear passenger side runner. I took it off and I noticed two little plugs where the gaps were. I got them down as far as I can without stripping the hex but they still stick out. I want to say it has maybe 1/16inch of a gap. It looks like the problem is the spacers are the same exact design as the gaskets and not the tgvs. The tgvs have that part cut out while the spacers and gaskets don’t.

 

Would this cause a leak? I’m using two gaskets on each side. One below the spacers and one above it. But I really don’t want to put everything together just to have to take it back off again. Any running intake spacers what did you do?

https://imgur.com/gallery/qkECnja

I got everything out but I was clumsy and messed up the sensor a little. You can see the damage in the pics but if not the connector is cracked, I cut into the plastic of the sensor a little and I dented the top with pliers. Would this be good to go? Or should I try it again with another sensor?

Great. If I install the block off plates and pull the relay would the codes cause any driving problems until I get it tuned and codes deleted? I probably won’t drive the car until I get it tuned anyways with the new turbo. But I will drive it to the tuner which is a hour away

I've had my stuff deleted for years and no issue (that i'm aware of). Fully deleted both solenoids and did the dremel work to keep the pressure sensor. KS Tech block off plates and screws.

 

That’s great to hear then. Might as well stop worrying and take it off.

Not a problem Dale. The write up is rather old (I did that one in my old home garage, LOL). There is more than one way to perform the work and you can remove the system or simply block off the ports and leave the parts intact. If there are questions I am still around and try to answer as fast as I can.

 

It’s been a long time since you did the delete. Still have the car? Any problems pop up from the delete after words?

So I seen m spanks thread of deleting the factory air pump. Has anyone done this? After the codes are turned off and keep the pressure sensor any drivability problems pop up?

 

The 90 fitting on my sti turbo barely fits around the sensors plug and was looking at maybe just getting rid of it if anyone has run their car like that for a long period of time and nothing popped up

Last time I was up at autozone they didn’t sell any reman ones for my 07 gt. All they sold was duralast gold which are brand new ones.

My 07 gt had an autozone cv axle on the driver side front when I first got the car. The steering wheel would vibrate like crazy while i was stopped with the car in drive. Replaced it with a Subaru axle after looking up what would of been the problem and sure enough the vibration stopped. So using a part store cv axle is really hit or miss I would say.