rmoore5

Most likely the voltage drop is caused by current in the service cable rising too much for the size of conductor, a larger service would likely alleviate the lights dimming. Poor connections on the service conductors or the lighting circuit breakers would also cause a drop. just my opinion and experience

Boost and / or lack of maintenance:)

They may have been able to source a cheaper one.:lol:

You didn't get soap in the intercooler did you?

Really slowed down on the miles since retirement, only 1000 since Dec. now at 277,000 with original motor and turbo. Resealed the turbo once.

All true, but the reason for the recall is the increased explosive force over time and humidity.

Google is your friend.

What I see in the picture is the questionable quality of the connections to the ground wire ( the #8 going through the plate). This a common way of connecting grounds, but I would use a pressure connector, wire nut , or solder. The copper water pipe must be bonded to the ground bar at the service panel. Refering to the NEC (and this will be TLDR) : from http://ecmweb.com/code-basics/grounding-and-bonding-part-1-3 Bonding conductors and jumpers The 2011 revision helps distinguish between the rules for bonding jumpers upstream from an overcurrent device versus bonding jumpers downstream from an overcurrent device. The NEC now clarifies that bonding jumpers on the load side of an overcurrent device must comply with all of Sec. 250.122, not just Table 250.122. It also: Clarifies the rules for bonding jumpers installed in a raceway versus those installed outside a raceway. Adds provisions for protecting aluminum bonding jumpers against corrosion. Addresses physical protection for all bonding jumpers. Equipment bonding jumpers must: Be copper. Terminate by listed pressure connectors, terminal bars, exothermic welding, or other listed means [250.8(A)].

The cutout is in the parking lot at the entrance of the business. This thread seems to have some morality issues, thanks for pointing them out.

Fine thread screws are a must for the real hard lumber (100 year old native stuff).

JaseJase...Yes, I learned from my Dad, 50 year card carrying bricklayer, never use water on your trowels. Use another trowel to scrape each other clean. But in today's "throwaway mentality" not many people keep things as long Dad did and I do. OB2.5XT...Quickset compound isn't what you will need for the job in your pic. Cut the drywall to fit within a 1/4" and use premixed. I use the quickset for big fills and plaster repair.

One additional tip is try not sand any bare paper, tape or board. It will make it fuzzy and hard to deal with.

My method : 1. Bed the joint with a coat of mud using a 6" knife centered on the joint. Use paper tape submerged in water and strip the excess water off between 2 fingers. Put the tape over the joint and smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles and remove excess mud using the 6" knife. Add a smooth thin coat of mud over the tape. Allow to dry. 2. Using the 6" scrape any ridges off the mud. No sanding. 3. Using the 6" knife apply the 2nd coat mud and smooth with the 6" knife with the edge at the center of the joint leaving a 12 " wide joint. Be sure to leave enough mud to cover the tape. Allow to dry. 4. Again use the 6" to scrape any ridges off. No sanding. 5. Using a 10" knife apply and smooth mud with knife edge at the center of the joint leaving 20" wide joint. Allow to dry. 6. Using a drywall knife scrape any ridges very little sanding should be needed. On the inside corners I use a corner trowel for bedding the tape and the first coat along with straight knives to extend the coverage width from the corner. Use the 6" to load the mud into the corner and switch to the corner trowel to smooth and form the corner. The wider the joint the better the wall looks imo. Sometimes I wind up with a skim coat over the entire sheet if the fasteners and joints are close together. As Charlie Daniels says : "That's how you do it son" .

Easy peazy, 20 minute install.

Replacing old rotten steel pipe, it was leaded into cast iron inside the kitchen cabinet. Fun time, burned up my angle drill, stalled it too many times.

10-23-2005

sub'd for info

The o-ring is cheap, try it and see. Usually you can hear if air is being sucked in and compressed (cavitation ya know). I recommend 2 placed on the elbow with the first acting as a spacer to put the other down into the bore of the port.

subscribed for the dash rattle, i'll wait for the techs to get a few under their belt.

There 276000 mi, here is a pic. I was driving out of the Subaru assembly plant the other morning.

Installed both my kits today. Didn't have the proper tool for tightening the bands. So I improvised and used a tire plug tool, here is a video.

Turned over 275,000 this week. Spaced it out and didn't get a pic. Original engine.

Package arrived today, BMB what are the plastic ties for? Sorry I'm too lazy to look thru the 49 other pages.

Thanks for the info, I need 2 kits ASAP. Pretty boring with boost low enough to protect the TMIC.

Got mine at PEP BOYS. Sorry a little late, be sure to reassemble the pieces concentric. They will bind on the camshaft otherwise.