Infosecdad

In eastern TN where I live, it's basically 87, 89, 93; there are a few exceptions, but that's what I see. I drive down to Costco in GA (12 min) for 93 most of the time. But in central MO where my dad lives, 91 is the max, I can't find 93 to save my life. So I carry octane booster when I visit him...

Love the Gold/White and also Dark Grey/White combinations.

I like Linseed Oil/Beeswax, but not sure what the line is for "sacrilege" for that one :-D

I haven't done under the driver's seat, but I do have one on the side of the console. Is hidden by my leg from anyone at the door and very easy to access. Most of my passengers haven't noticed either. It's not completely hidden like under seat would be, but I only have something in it when I'm traveling longer distances. Super easy to do, just bought a left handed kydex shell, four rubber insulators and four self taping screws from Lowes/Home Depot. Empty: With my P-01 in it:

Yep, I'm a no-beam at the moment. If I can find another one or break down and cut mine I'll do it. But have a lot of holiday stuff to take care of first.

Yeah, I'm probably going to use some level of bar. It does need to be curved though to follow the contours, I'll get to it at a later time :-)

Got the JDM bumper installed today. As mentioned before, I just removed my crash beam for now. I'll build/cut a thin one at a later date/time. I love the lines now, the rear is nicely tucked. This is the way they should always have been. The HKS Silent Hi-Power fit perfectly now, with reduced cabin noise (and smell). It's almost too quiet, might have to consider the HKS (or other) mid-pipe some day. Pull the taillights and the two plastic pins on each corner. On each side, pull the plug and remove the small bolt, there is a second on the inside, underneath behind the wheel well cover (you have to peel the cover back from the rear of the well and feel in there for a 10mm bolt.) Bumper cover off and bumper beam removed. Dry fitting the new bumper Replacement bumper didn't have the two metal braces, so I drilled out the rivets on me USDM bumper and re-riveted to the JDM bumper. All done and installed. Love the look and difference all around. (yes, it's a slightly different white and will be for a while) Now I can really see the 120mm Hi-Power and they aren't hidden under the bumper. Also got a custom plate delete for the front.

Yeah, he said he could only use the EDM if he cut it. I might be completely removing mine or cutting the USDM bumper.

Good question, I've read conflicting accounts and haven't actually found a walkthrough for it. I'll start with the beam (no foam) and see what happens. If the beam only needs a bit of work, then I'll probably do that, if it needs to get mostly tore up, then I'll probably just remove it so I have the option of putting it back. The front only required the foam removed and corners shaved by a sabersaw, we'll see what happens for the rear.

I installing my JDM LGT rear wagon bumper on this weekend, let me know if you need any specific pictures or measurements.

According to this thread legacy wagon and sedan beams are the same. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-rear-bumper-bp-wagon-260797.html?p=5609448

Yeah, I can't afford to care. Too many other expenses in life right now. Even if I had the money, I would rather spend the money on a new clutch and blast plates in a year or so...

Here you go. Right now the front bumper and tailgate garnish are JDM Arctic White, in the right light you can see the difference, other times you can't really.

And this is why I'll live with the Arctic White and SWP mix for now... I can only see the difference in the right light.

She looks great! Love the color. How is the drive in comparison to the SpecB?

Here you go, hopefully it helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

I'm going to do it again in a couple days, I'll post a picture sequence for ya

The vents in your '05 wagon are in each rear quarters. You can take off the bumper to get to them or pull the inside covers. I chose the inside trim. You have to take out a good bit of the trim covers in the hatch area on each side and you'll see the black vents tucked down there, they are approx 10x5" or so. I blocked mine with some spare vinyl wrap I had left over. They aren't perfectly sealed, but they do stop a good bit of the smell that had been wandering into the back. There are one-way flaps for the vents, but as they age I think they are more open than closed.

I would be willing to bet that your in-bay filter is an amazing damper. I've been tempted to do something similar. I'm running a AEM 50-1000 pump with freshly cleaned stock injectors. I've capped the previous vacuum feed on intake #4 and tee'd off the reference line for the BPV. Without the damper, at idle it almost sounded like I had an exhaust leak. At 2k RPM it was lost in other sounds, don't know if it went away or was just drowned out.

Yeah, that's the damper that is was on the return line (and is again). The damper from the source line is still sitting in the stock assembly on my shelf. I'm not the first to find there are interesting noises coming from having just the STi FPR with without any dampers. My experience was similar to this post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/noise-after-fueling-changes-254016.html?t=254016

Updated my STi FPR by adding the previous (post FPR) fuel dampener back in line. I was getting a lot of odd noises that I wasn't crazy about without it. Much quieter now, and I feel that the fuel delivery is better. I flipped the FPR over and made a shorter quick disconnect line for the return hard line on the intake, put the FPR inline, then a short run to the dampener, then to the stock quick disconnect line. Made a small bracket to hold the dampener and it's good to go.

Nope, looks like the permissions on those images is not public. You can see them, but we can't. Yea! Working now.

Finished my install of the '05 STi FPR for my '05 LGT. Was fairly easy to do, took a couple hours all told. Removed the full FPR and delivery/return dampers assembly. Made a single replacement line for the delivery side and reused the existing hoses for the return side. Made a simple mount for the FPR and installed it in a similar manner to the COBB instructions. About $2 in nylon space, bolt, and chunk of metal for the mount. Picked up a plastic Fuel Line Disconnect from Pep Boys and shaved the nose of it so that it was easier to get jammed in around the stupid lip by the firewall. The engine side didn't have that lip, was super easy to do by comparison. Initial drive was very promising, noticeably smoother in the 2k RPM range, especially with little to moderate load. Relearned idle much quicker this time, compared to previous ECU resets. Will hold off declaring it a complete success until I've driven it for a bit. FRP Reference: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_STI25L-TURBO-6MT-4WDSEDAN/REGULATOR-ASSEMBLY-PRESSURE/49232576/22670AA351.html

Good to know on the flow direction, thanks! Interesting, that's from parts.subaru.com for the '05 STi. I double and triple checked it. Now, if look it up in the '05 STi service manual, the FPR looks totally different. I'm not sure why. The parts diagram for '07 STi looks like the service manual, but there is only one nipple for fuel as it bolts to the rail on a flange, however, the part number is exactly the same as the '04-06 STi "22670AA351" that is what I have and what COBB uses and has two fuel nipples for connecting lines. http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_STI25L-TURBO-6MT-4WDSEDAN/REGULATOR-ASSEMBLY-PRESSURE/49232576/22670AA351.html

According to the parts diagram, it's actually "on its side". So that's a third orientation, so I'm guessing it doesn't matter? I was also trying to figure out if there was a flow direction for it. From the parts diagram, if the flow is leaving the rail and heading to the left, the 90 bend is input. Where as the COBB install has the 90 bend as output...