BeastCoast

I have a problem...somehow I've lost all the low-end torque that I originally gained with the tune.

 

Initially when I got it the amount of pull down low was incredible, combined with our touchy throttle it was hard to take-off smoothly. I eventually got used to this though, or so I thought. Turns out it wasn't me that changed but rather the car did. I was in manual mode on some back roads, and the impressive 3rd "gear" pull is gone. I ran a few 0-60's and I'm currently in the high 9-10 range. It was low-mid 8 range...

 

I tried re-flashing the tune, thinking maybe the car was trying to revert back to its old ways...nothing changed, still dead down low.

 

Here's what's different since I got the tune:

-Started running 93 octane premium gas, currently on my second tank of it since tuning. I recall everything being normal after filling up with the first tank so I'm pretty sure this isn't the culprit.

-Installed Takeda intake and did an ECU reset afterwards. When I did this my throttle tip-in changed from being right at the top to having a little bit of play. I assumed it was just a re-calibration from the reset but maybe there's something going on there.

 

Any ideas? Should I switch back to the stock intake and do some testing to see if there's a difference? I contemplated about doing another ECU reset but wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts on the matter first. I just really want my power back!

When you did the ECU reset after installing the intake your car may have learned the NEW AFR associated with it, throwing off other parameters that the tune had changed. Id shoot TH a message and see if he could resend you a tune accounting for the new increase in airflow.

***EDIT***

Say your tune was based on the airflow from the stock intake (which it was) and everything ran fine. After installation of the new intake and ECU reset, the only parameter that changed was air/fuel ratio while all other parameters remain the same as they were previous to the increase in airflow. That may be where the issue lies. Just my speculation.

Has anyone used the intake that is posted? Would the 3.6r intakes fit in the 2.5i?

 

 

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The Takeda 4303p is for the 2.5. They make one for the 3.6 but it doesn't fit

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Don't know if it's against the rules but at this point does it really matter...

 

If like to start a new challenge.

 

Post a picture of your favorite mod you've done to your legacy

 

 

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/37dd37158651254c51813f2b00eb522d.jpg

 

This car makes me moister than an oyster:wub::wub:

Anyone with the tune have an SSD or Takeda intake? If so did you notice a difference after installing? Why did you pick one over the other?

 

aFe claims 7hp and 6lb-ft on their website

I have the Takeda intake. I got it because SSD didnt have one for the 6th gen specified yet. I would make the same choice again even though it is now available. I feel like the Takeda Intake looks to be of higher quality but that is only matter of opinion I suppose. I like that the Takeda replaced half of the air box and allows you to use a cone filter (whether there is any benefit to that, I dont know but i like the look of it better) while SSD uses your stock airbox and provides a replacement panel filter. As for HP gains, I havent felt any. Maybe a slight improvement in throttle response and MPG but thats about it for me.

To be clear, I'm guessing the new tune does not include (for those who want it) the flex tune? I'm guessing it's not ready yet?..

 

 

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Doubtful but I imagine if it does he'll make sure to let us know in the email

April 2016

Before- Stock

After-Rims, rain guards, painted grille, vinyl badges, mud flaps, installed fog lights, green wrap, Thule racks, 5% Tint, nameless performance muffler delete, Takeda cold air, ssd strut tower brace, sad alternator cover.

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Wonderful Thank you both for the help, i have been reading and searching on the forums about sway bars. That would be the better option it seems and 19mm should be fine?

I can't comment personally as I dont have a RSB but check out this thread. Should answer some questions.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/19mm-rear-sway-bar-install-231670.html

The SSD shouldn't suck in any water either because it's just tubing plus a panel filter to replace your stock panel filter. Filter is the same size, direct fit. That's one of the reasons it's cheaper.

 

The Takeda is tubing plus a big cone filter (bigger than the stock panel filter) in an enclosure that replaces half of our airbox, and therefore doesn't suck in water.

+1

The Takeda intake REPLACES half of the airbox. The stock airbox is already fully enclosed and the SSD intake doesnt modify that at all. No need to worry

So i would not need the kn filter?

No sir. The SSD Intake actually has an option for you to choose K&N as the included filter. So with that...

1.) you get the intake hose and filter you want in one shot

2.) you get to reuse both halves of your stock airbox (less assembly). The Takeda TR4303-P comes with a heat shield to replace half of the airbox. Nothing to difficult but just an extra step. The only difference really between them is one has a cone filter Vs. stock sized panel filter. And I could be wrong but it looks like the SSD intake hose is plastic Vs Takeda which is aluminum(?).

Will check it out, even if i get the filter and air intake it would not hurt as well as ecu tuning. I will look at the reviews and see what to get shortly, thank you for the help. Its my only car as well, i will probably do the kn filter and intake for now then slowly start doing more to it.

The Takeda intake and the SSD intake both come with new filters so don't waste money on just a filter. Figured I'd warn you just incase.

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Next Challenge: In spirit of Halloween, Post a picture of your car with something Halloween-ish (Carved pumpkin, decorations, weird guy in killer clown mask etc...)

Ok, so I figured it out..the provided cable was defective, it seems to be working correctly now after switching cables. It took the entire day to figure that out, lol. I'll keep you guys updated.

Glad you finally solved the issue! On another note, how the hell were you able to get a new Tactrix cable in a couple hours? LOL

Really? Your "old Chevy Cobalt" had an engine oil temperature warning light?

 

FWIW, the engine oil high temperature threshold for the 2.5 engine is 257 F (125 C). Source: 2015 Legacy/Outback FSM and Subaru tech training materials.

Brain fart... I was thinkin coolant temp.

Also this came up earlier about oil temperature. Mine goes up and down a few degrees but is in this area. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161026/8ffe7e302e279fc810a60481613f4ccd.jpg

 

 

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That seems pretty high. I remember in my old Chevy Cobalt a warning would come on at 225

I downloaded the ecuflash software, Plugged in the Tactrix to car and computer, Opened EcuFlash, Selected model of car and chose: Subaru BRZ (like told)...from here there is no read from ecu button, it's grayed out. I turn the car on, ignition on..nothing. I took pictures of the laptop, I'll try uploading them.

 

I followed the instructions.

Strange, and the car is on AC power when you're trying to read? The car doesn't need to be running. Just want to make sure that isn't the issue.

Did you turn the ignition to the "ON" position?

Plug in the Tactrix to car and computer

Open EcuFlash

Select model of car and chose: Subaru BRZ and press OK

Click the 'Read from ECU' button

Now turn the Ignition to the ON position

Press OK

Wait for it to finish downloading the existing tune

It will say the tune is unrecognisable, but will give an option to save the file

Save the tune somewhere safe on your computer in SRF format

Turn ignition off

Turn ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds, then turn ign off for 15 seconds

You can now start the car as nothing is changed on the ECU except you now have a backup copy of current tune

Let engine idle for 60 seconds before driving the car

Thanks. So in order to ensure that Matt's tune takes into your account your intake and exhaust mods, you need to do them first, reset the ECU, drive around long enough to log the new AFR data, then pull your stock tune to send to Matt. Good to know.

I would do the reset prior to downloading your stock tune file. I could be 100% wrong but that's what I feel the best thing to do would be. That way when making adjustments on his end, all the parameters are accurate.

You're running the Takeda intake, right? Did you get Matt to tweak the tune to accommodate the increased air intake? If not, do you think the Takeda contributed at all to your power improvements?

I know I let him know that I had one but either way, after you install the intake you should do an ECU reset in which case your cars ECU file you send to Matt would contain the new A-F ratio since the reset.

I got a message from him about an hour ago and he said he's almost completed testing locally to roll out a world wide update. (Tick, tock, tick, tock)

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161012/80f03c6a945032261bbcc1ffce8dcc9b.png

Update coming soon from Matt. Just a heads up to everyone.

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2015 wrx muffler driver side only. Bolt on no mods but does touch the bumper slightly and rubbed off a little paint but not really noticible. Sound clip linked below. https://youtu.be/TvlDhvwZU0M

Is this the stock WRX muffler? Sounds pretty good

http://www.challengepromotions.com/Wills/Legacy/Tray.JPG

That would be incriminating for some of us