Senseless1

Where are the numbers again? Where do I have to be to see them with the transmission still in the car?

Per that chart all the diffs I have are open so scratch that. Also I was sold a "jdm wrx turbo 5 speed transmission" Per that chart and the search I did last time using the actual number I must actually have a JDM NA legacy 5 speed. I sure as hell paid wrx pricing. Make sure you double check the numbers on the actual unit when you're at the JDM importer...

Ooh let me check if I still have it

Well I just got told to stay home another week with pay. Thank God my company is stepping up.

I have a 3.90 JDM 99 legacy 5mt and a USDM 08 3.9 5mt that may or may not have a working center diff. I'm using the 08 rear diff, which I'm reading is lsd. It would be nice to have a center lsd as well. I only need it to hold 350 whp for now. Does anyone know if I can swap them out and put the 08 center diff in the 99 case?

If the FA24DIT doesn't produce 400hp in the sti Subaru will wane in popularity.

The Turdwagon in it's 2 years ago iteration. Coming back lighter, better handling, faster this year. Going custom widebody, replacing my worn out turbo DOHC 2.2 hybrid swap.

Yes it works fine. You'll want to do some more digging, because you probably need boost for that short block. Idk your piston deck height, but it's probably too low CR to run na. Luckily the OEM exhaust parts will at least get you to a downpipe.

That's pretty cool you got an appraisal from the other guy. Tbh the easiest way forward is to just let it go, take your check, and start over. If you've never done a door, fender, etc you might want to partner with a laid off mechanic to double team the car. I can tell you this virus has auto techs looking to stockpile money, so get a good rate on labor. The harness is a tough point because yes you could fix the damage you see, but you don't know bad the wires that still work got pinched. They could break over time causing a potential nightmare diagnosis situation. Idk between the bumper fender and door one person having never done that before you'te going to regret that. Buy a can of silicone spray to lube areas with rubber and all the suspension is gravy

There are a few of them out of in the yards now. I should also have a set of 97-98 ej25d cam sprockets. If you can't find what you need.

Have you tried asking and then demanding they fix it? Can you buy it back and use the check they give you to fix it yourself cheaper? you don't think there's frame damage, but I can see the apron is clearly damaged. Where it's bent and how it's bent is what determines if it can be bent back and refinished or if you need sections replaced. Just fyi, what looks okay may actually be a compromised crumple zoned that was engineered specifically, and might need to be cut out and replaced. I'm not certified in making those calls, we just don't build cars at my job if any frame damage exists whatsoever. If it can't be unbolted and replaced we won't sell it on our lot. If the piece with any type of damage can be unbolted, it gets replaced. Would you want your family in the car during a wreck at highway speeds if anything was compromised? Pictures to assess damage should really be done with the wheel and front bumper removed with extra lighting. Even still it's difficult to see damage sometimes if you don't have the other side to compare to. Also just fyi the damage on that door isn't worth fixing so if they didn't already add a passenger side door and all the overhaul and prep/paint time. If you let me see that in person I could probably write up nice juicy estimate too.

I'd love to see a turboshaft APU mated to some kind custom clutch. 300 shaft horsepower would be fun in a gutted Miata or something small.

Have you seen this yet? They're developing cast turbo manifolds for twins on the ez30r:

Previous to this outbreak insurance companies did the dirty work of deciding who lives and dies. Medicare patients over 80 years old already receive a reduced level of coverage compared to a 79 year old independent of other factors. I think it's safe to say if you're over 80 in a major metropolitan area get your affairs in order.

If anyone hasn't already seen this route: https://soundman.co/blogs/news Doug Bernards aka soundman makes custom kits for just about any tablet and any car, but you'll be creating a panel using his methods. Pretty entertaining stuff on his YouTube as well.

This would be great if I could still get parts shipped in a reasonable time frame.

Just use a catch can and run a can of seafoam through the intake during your air filter scheduled maintenance. Then change the oil after seafoaming. Say every 30k miles, and you'll probably tire of the car before it fails due to carbon build up.

You mean like methanol injection?

I can't stand the start stop technology. Not a fan of direct injection unless it still has port injectors like the fa20. The emissions systems and PCV valve deposit too much oil vapor and combustion byproducts on the backs of the intake valve and all throughout the induction system, which no longer have port injectors spraying them directly keeping them clean. An air oil seperator or catch can helps. You could also seafoam the intake with the regular air filter change schedule or about 30k miles.

Someone got your memo here. What used to be bumper to bumper traffic for hours is now the Autobahn. I used to be lucky to hit 60 mph now getting passed going 80 in the slow lanes. At night you can actually be the only car in sight. It's unbelievable. I sped past an unmarked car going 15 over in the HOV lane, and he ignored me LOL It's getting crazy in Maryland. Most people are laid off/furloughed/let go or cut back on hours. My company is finally implementing social distancing as a company policy and is guaranteeing us 32 hours pay minimum and only making us clock 24 hours a week. It's not looking good though. Most of my friends and family were having weddings/vacations or buying homes a month ago. Now and instead I'm using PTO to top up my checks. Should run out just in time for my 1200 TrumpBUX. Then probably gonna get ugly for a couple months. I think we'll be back to normal by Christmas. People are going to replenish savings after this and it'll appear worse than it really is.

My man! I'm historic tagged, so no emissions. I want daily driver reliability, but I won't be driving the car daily. I'd sure love to go standalone ecu and build a closed deck 2.2 ej22t block and run ej20x quad avcs with built heads. Then compound turbo it once I win the lottery and buy a wrecked sti for the 6speed.

Do you know what kind of current those exhaust avcs solenoids might want? I want to see if I can use a standalone to actuate the solenoids directly or if I'll need a relay. I would assume there is some kind of overlap standards that can be looked up and applied relative to a crank signal for rpm as a starting point to play with timing. It would be nice to get some sti datalogs to copy the intake avcs trends. Very cool project! Are we able to get aftermarket valvetrain and cams yet for the ej20x/y legacy heads?

I second a full fluid flush and re-bleed using the correct procedure, which I can't remember. You might be able to use a newer Subaru model like wrx/stinor Forrester. They may or may not even be different, but be warned the master cylinder and pedal box bolt onto the brake booster. If the booster studs are different you may need to modify the firewall and pedal box bracket and/or use the master cylinder from the new booster. I know for certain that an 08 wrx master cylinder bolts on just fine. I know for certain a 1998 Forester master cylinder bolts on and uses the same brake lines leading to slave cylinder Look up part numbers for different models and check junkyards if you can to see what is the same. Idk much about your climate or work methods, but grease or lubricants can contaminate pad material permanently. Also clean your rotors before and after installation. Check that you didn't twist your calipers the wrong way twisting your brake lines. This causes some strange brake behavior and sometimes doesn't, but a good technician will always spot this and judge pretty hard lol You could look at the specs of master cylinders to see if a sports model or SUV model may have a larger diameter piston. I know the wrx has a +1mm diameter slave piston. It's not a direct bolt on but it works and gives less clutch pedal effort.

Ah I see it now. I work on auction cars for a living so please pardon my low expectations lol I really like solder cup terminals that you can put in a vice and melt solder in with a torch, then insert the prepared wire. You should cut and strip the cable such that 1/16" of bare wire protrudes from the terminal cup when inserted. A slight twist can make insertion a little nicer. Heat shrink with glue will guarantee you won't have typical green high resistance corrosion. A harbor freight hydraulic crimp tool works well for the quick and dirty to get you back on the road or for an interior battery compartment not subjected to environmental extremes like inside an engine bay.

Post up a first start video, so we can celebrate with you