Senseless1

I'm going to do my part by only giving my full build details here. I only use IG for my car, so what little snippets that gets will have links back here. I think it's time we repatriate from social media and Facebook to go back to forums. The depth of knowledge I've seen on non forum type platforms is pitiful. I'm also going to build the best everyman's legacy using the best Subaru platform to date, the second generation legacy wagon. I think if you all sold your cars and bought second gen wagons the site would surely rocket to record levels of revenue. Keeping with serious discussion we really should be pushing youths off of social media and back onto the forums where actual knowledge exists.

Helicoil install for my 94 legacy ss turbo subframe done yesterday. Going to put the rack back in today in a bit. I wanted to give the red loctite time to set up. I think I'm going to blue loctite the bolts. I don't really think it's appropriate to helicoil something as important as a steering rack, but I bought this turbo subframe years ago no returning it now. I should've checked the threads when I bought it. Idk I might just red loctite everything to the subframe. I guess I'm posting on IG again... @senselesstuning not sure how long that'll last.

Meh I don't even use hand sanitizer, so maybe you all ought to right?

This guy has an aviation YouTube channel that shows carbon fiber fabrication. I found this channel to be really informative and wanted to share. He has another video where he uses closed cell foam as a mold and just hand lays carbon over it. Lots of good ideas we could use. Does anyone in here have composites fab experience?

So the 04fxt ecu has a 12v batt+ wire running to ecu pin D9 labeled AT only. This wire ties pin D9 to the AT inhibitor switch through the switch and back to ecu pin D8. This circuit is completed when the gear shift selector is in either the park or neutral position. Ecu pin D9 goes to neutral position switch then ground for MT only Ecu pin A34 gets ground with MT only So I read people say you need to leave the TCU connected in addition to grounding this mystery pin (I'm leaning towards the A34 pin, but still thinking I may need to keep the AT only circuits happy at the ecu. Ok next up combination meter/instrument cluster wiring answers. Looking at the nearby pin architecture ecu pin A32 goes to the wastegate solenoid valve and A33 goes to the front oxygen sensor. That's a nice little cluster of data you would need to maintain idle fueling when clutching in with a manual transmission interesting... Maybe pin A34 signals a logic chip to catch this MT only driving phenomena.

Did you say Zerosports?!

So I feel pretty dumb, but I now realize the Accel pedal should swap over fine. I was confusing the brake and clutch assembly being separated from the Accel pedal. I just hope the sensors on the existing NA manual Forester pedal box are correct. From looking at photos they appear the same. Ok now to address which pin needs ground for auto ecu to run a manual. I'm curious if it's just the circuit to send Park/nuetral position signal. I'm going to compare ECU pinouts to hopefully give me some indication of which extra spot has a pin on the auto ECU and/or look at the shift interlock circuit.

I can see the 04-06 wrx sti Accel pedal has a different connector than the 06-07 wrx sti and Forester. I'm gonna hit the junk yard tomorrow and see if I can find a non turbo pedal with the same connector since I can only find 1 pedal on eBay right now and they want $100... The NA 2004 Forester definitely has a dbc throttle body. 04-06 sti Accel pedal has a 6 pin connector with the old school electromechanical position sensor whereas the 06-07 look like a 2 pin connector canbus module. From what I can see from eBay photos. I wonder if iwire provides the connector pigtail for this in their auto to manual wiring kit. I might just wire to the pedal connector pins and shrinkwrap the whole pin. Idk I doubt I can find one in the junkyard on short notice. And budget along with Amazon ship times are killing me. Next scheme is gonna be turning tricks for a fluidamper

Ok excitement worn off temporarily. Now I'm realizing my donor is an auto, so I will be doing a harness merge and auto to manual wiring, which if without looking at the wiring diagrams to confirm I should have already in my 98 lgt manual harness or most of, AND a DBW pedal assembly. Do I just need the Accel pedal? My next concern is that the '04 FXT ej255 is dbw ECU controlled. I'll have a brand new throttle cable and ported and polished DBC throttle body available after this I guess... But which pedal boxes have the right sensors for the '04 FXT ecu? Right now the LGT has a hydraulic clutch & brake pedal assembly from a junkyard~1998- 2000's forester I think. Sensors were plug and play then, so maybe I just need a dbw accelerator pedal+sensor+connector pigtail. I guess some opposed forces or Subaru parts catalogue investigation is needed to find out which model years have a manual dbw clutch and brake pedal assbly I can use in my '98 LGT. Doublechaz you're an encyclopedia lol any leads for me? Okay back to stress reading Bryson's merge thread and visualizing the parts inside the FXT chassis...

This list is perfect. Another thing to check is make sure the tire tread depth is about the same all around. You never want to only replace two tires on an AWD vehicle, but so many people either don't know or don't care. Subarus generally wear very evenly from what I've seen, so if they aren't close you might have some junk tires on the car the previous owner slapped on just to keep going.

Double post Flex because I just put a deposit down on a Forester xt donor car. I will now have 3 full sets of sti injectors to play with decapping, an open source tuneable ecu, walbro 255 and 18gtx turbo with full exhaust, and a couple 3 port BCSs laying around. I've heard the yellow top side feeds flow 740cc decapped. I can get ethanol, but I think I can make more power using 93 and spraying methanol at least until I go front mount. I've been toying with the idea getting a cheap China fuel cell and knockoff walbro 255 to plumb up a methanol injection system. Injection method is TBD. I'm not comfortable spraying with just 1 nozzle. I'd rather come up with a cost effective nozzle that can be fastened directly to each runner. Probably need an fpr and inline fuel filter safe for meth to keep my nozzles clean. Also have not even considered tuning. I'm new to tuning, so I'll need some time to overcome that learning curve. I'm thinking I have an easy 330awhp with this combo without even needing a fmic as long as I can spray it with meth. Should be enough to grenade an r160 or 5mt right? Will be running 245/40/17 square tires.

I just put a deposit down on a Forester xt donor car for my baby! Nervous, excited, irritated the donor is in better shape than my baby...

Very nice

It's definitely a lot especially if it's full of leaves like mine. Sure would be nice to have the space to make a mold...

You're right, but wouldn't it be grand if Subaru jumped into the new horespower wars?

Do yourself a favor and unload about 4 cans of brake cleaner on the leaks and top off your fluids too.

So I am hopefully picking up a donor Forester xt next week. I guess I'll just get the swap working and worry about getting my 18gxt in later. I still have 8 yellow top side feeds I want to decap and send out to witchhunter for cleaning and flow testing, then with my generic pierburg hopefully I can figure out how to tune enough to find out what an ej255 w/ decapped 740ccish injectors, walbro 255, ported vf39 upgraded with billet 11 blade 18gtx compressor wheel and larger compressor cover (rebalanced), and I guess a stock Forester tmic unless I can throw together a front mount by then. Lots up in the air now

Hell yeah Congrats! I'm hoping to pick up a Forester XT next week to do a swap in my wagon

You probably just need head gasket replacement including all gaskets up to that point. That is if you care about the leak. Can you top up the fluids and just keep driving it? I'd say yes as long as you don't have coolant contaminating your oil or lots of oil in your coolant and no oil filling your spark plug tubes. I would just keep an eye on the fluid levels and drive it until you get to the timing refresh interval and do everything at once. If it still drives, drive it and clean it off/top it off every so often. A few cans of brake clean will do wonders for your $2800 problem.

It's 2020

I think Subaru invested a lot of money in these new platforms, so if this is the future of Subaru it isn't unusual to expect some level of advancement. I've driven the new STI Type RA, and I know what they cost. 400 horsepower isn't asking a lot. That's a damn fine car with a matching price tag!

Yes. I'm about to swap everything over from an 04 fxt into a 98 lgt wagon. I'm a recently furloughed auto technician with 3 months of full time aviation electronics training though, so if my wife won't divorce me for buying another Subaru I'll have basically the planets aligned for one of the cheapest swaps in history if I can figure out how to tune it myself using a $25 vagcom cable. Swapping pedal boxes and taking dasboards out sucks, but I'll be happy enough if I can weasle my way into doing this in a storage unit in less than a month to minimize costs. I just bought a AAA membership to to tow the donor which is cheaper than renting a tow dolly and truck by about $50. I have a daily driver and access to factory wiring diagrams. I just picked up those solder seal connectors that I like a lot. I like wiring more when it isn't done upside down under a dash or inside a trunk, but there are worse things. Worse things like anything on Euro cars. I had a 2019 range rover evora or something that I spent 2 hours on just for a cupholder... IF I can make it happen I'll try and get some video and share the information so you can see. Tbh worst case I'll run both ecus and have one minimally connected to run the car HVAC/ABS/LIGHTS and the other for ecu. I'll swap over all sensors and keep both parallel harness circuits complete. I'll probably need to swap pedal boxes. Once I get everything working and verified I can start unplugging the FXT modules I'm not using and see which ones throw limp mode or cause issues. Once a circuit is verified redundant it can be cut out. I'll have to perform this process on the engine harness to see what connectors can be proven redundant and cut out of the bulkhead harness. Condensing fuse boxes neatly will be a challenge. Ideally I would perform this testing prior to final dashboard installation. I'm sure iwire would be able to do this much much faster using one of their spreadsheets, but this is the dummy way. For electrical components deemed redundant but still wire in with essential circuits I'll just measure the resistance of the component and wire in a resistor. I think my 04 donor is old enough that I'm good to go, but I understand Canbus systems need to have all modules connected and typically have a threshold range of sensor output they want to see. I would be looking to see what kind of wiring differences there are between abs systems, alternator systems, HVAC. The steering column + keys may need to come with as an assembly for the immobilizer. The complete canbus circuitry and components would need to be swapped over and you would possibly need to find ways to trick each component to get your happy canbus signals to run everything. I also don't emissions requirements for this vehicle.

Of course! I just think the platform deserves so much more than to be relegated to a money flex. Honda developed an entirely new flagship car stealing the Subaru styling it's so good. IMO the STI deserves more respect, and more horsepower, than the new Supra at least in the Type RA special edition.

That's really tough. Full disclosure I have a 98 legacy GT wagon that could really use your drivetrain... If I were you I'd look for the cheapest Corolla money could buy to get you mobile again and then start looking for a 98ish Impreza RS or a run of the mill bugeye/blobeye Impreza or legacy. Strip both vehicles down and swap over the full harness and drivetrain with brakes etc I'm hopefully buying a Forester xt next week that will end up being my turbo open source tuneable donor for my wagon. I'm probably just taking the engine and brakes unless I want to fool around with finding a way to take the washer sprayer system and adapt it to my tmic. I guess I need to see if the Forester alternator puts out more juice or not as well.

Yes I meant from a Motorsports platform perspective. The market is pretty crowded and as more Cobb kiddies drop big money on mediocre mods the competition is catching up. American V8's are already better platforms for power, and miatas are still much more economical and outperform. Just my opinion, but if the next gen Subaru isn't a step up, then I'm probably going to finish my classic Subaru and move on to an American V8 platform for more high horsepower reliability.