gkinslow

Tempting, bump.

Wouldn't you have to give up your steering wheel controls for this?

It appears to be solid in the spots where either the steering wheel controls (radio, cruise, etc) or blanks would mount.

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The inflator is explosive... not the airbag.

I know that was the issue when I had a DAMD steering wheel shipped from Japan. They sent me the "airbag cover" but couldn't/wouldn't ship the inflator. Looks like you just have the airbag and cover.

If I remember correctly from the last time I had my steering wheel off, the inflator is mounted beneath the one piece "airbag cover" which is what you appear to be selling.

Probably ought to spring for the protective packaging on this one.

Nice buy!

If you have questions let me know

What is the testing procedure for deciding if replacement of brake lines is warranted? (When there are no signs of leakage?)

Is it strictly a visual inspection?

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OEM air intake?

Are you certain the turbo was replaced with a genuine IHI unit?

Are you positive the car has never been tuned? Modded and returned to stock?

With very limited history on the car, this could be a number of issues.

A video including the sound you describe could help as well.

Also as BonBon was asking, what do your fuel trims look like? Those are a better indicator than the A/F ratio at any given time.

 

..... my run was done.

My run won't be done, but I doubt I'll be going back to TiC. That may mean I have to start E-tuning in order to keep the same tuner.

My car has never come back worse off but everything has always taken 2 or 3 times as long as it should have and absolute garbage customer service up to and including outright lies.

Shops really are absolute garbage in most cases.

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The headers have been back from KillerB since the Monday after Thanksgiving!!

Then they claimed the Tial EWG was on backorder, (translate: we forgot to order it)

For some reason after the FF was installed (but before the headers were sent off) it was on the dyno. Dumb, but whatever. We were losing fuel pressure at 450whp. I approved a fuel filter replacement (11-13-19) to be done before the next dyno session.

Headers return and EWG installed and we hit the dyno again, only to find out IT IS STILL LOSING FUEL PRESSURE AT 450WHP! The fuel filter was never changed. Fast forward to last Friday (3 weeks without communication)... Dyno again with new fuel filter... still losing pressure at 450whp and now want to hardwire the pump.

Its a fuggin joke. I could load and fire the parts cannon from my driveway and not have spent over $3k already. Likely over $5k by the time it is finished.

Cliff's notes for Fjuan:

Incompetence and crap customer service EVERYWHERE!

Nope. Shop manager keeps pointing the finger at everyone else.

Zero communication for 2 and 3 weeks at a time.

 

That shop was one of the last straws with keeping up with the LGT. That was only one of the shitty things they did during that session. Having had some pretty shitty luck, even with shops that had decent reputations in the area, it just sent me off the end of being able to stomach maintaining the monster I had created any longer.

This is precisely how I'm feeling at the moment.

And my car is at one of the most "reputable Subaru Specialty Shops" in the country.

Paying big money for horrible customer service and questionable work really sours my attitude for the entire car. (which I haven't even seen in 3 months now)

Gates kits were hit and miss. They had some quality issues from sourcing some parts from China and not Japan. Not OEM quality bearings.

Aisin kit has been recommended for a while now. TiC used an Aisin kit during my rebuild.

Would it not be under warranty from the last replacement?

I assume this is an NA car?

Damn those are both heavy.

Gramlights my ass.

Man for the price of a STS (around $100 from Kartboy) I wouldn't be cutting and re-threading the stock shift lever.

Not to mention the easy installation (20 min)

With the launching/launch control read up on Cobb's website and make sure you understand it completely if you are going to set it up yourself. Otherwise I'd have the tuner do it.

I've contemplated doing basically what you are. Buying a Spec B shell (preferably 08-09) and swapping over my performance parts. Luckily my 5mt is holding up to the increased power levels.... so far.

I am using top feed tgv delets so the connection for that is not an issue i dont think.

It is if you are using the Cobb FF kit. (or other FF that utilizes the old tgv input)

It uses the old TGV input and requires different connector for 07 spec B. 05 LGT has 3 pin connector 07 spec B has 5 pin connector.

As for launching, I don't do it. My car doesn't see track or drag strip time and I'd surely break all the things launching a 5mt at 450wtq.

It is going to be trial and error finding the butter zone for your car/clutch/tires combo and will take tons of practice especially since you are new to manual transmission.

The only way to get a STS is to buy and install one. There is no adjustment on the stock shift lever/knob that I'm aware of.

Not sure if necessary but moving a motor originally fixed to an automatic to a manual you may want to add timing belt guides.

I'd bet there are a half dozen small differences along these lines.

Not to mention the small differences between GT and spec B like the tgv connectors.

The spec B 6mt is already good to go.

At that power level if you are launching properly you should break an axle before having tranny issues.

Proper fluid and some beefed up axles should be enough in that area.

Short throw shifter, upgraded shifter bushings, stiffer trans mount... Probably where I'd start.

For starters, what all are you swapping over from the LGT?

Are you looking for aesthetics mods or more power mods or what? You basically have the exact same car except for the transmission, suspension bits, and interior.

Very vague post won't get a lot of responses.