Scooby2.5

You use the JDM skin

A sedan beam and sedan beam brackets

No foam as found in this thread when I did this years ago.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-outback-bumper-install-69935.html

Considering putting Underdog on the chopping block to free up some space and some cash. Current daily driver is a ‘19 Accord 2.0T, which will never be as fun a platform as the Legacy has been, but checks all the boxes for what I need. Parting out/selling Underdog would enable me to pay off the note and probably have a few bucks for mods left over. However the emotional attachment is real, and that cuts both ways.

I just sold my 2013 STI, had it since 2017 when I sold the Outback XT

Finally just decided to get a truck for work so I purchased a 2020 Tacoma TRD Pro.

Good luck if you decide to sell.......it is a great build!

I went over to a WRX STI, 2013 and it had the same issue.

Here is a great write up by the cobb boys on the problem.

At least in the STI world a fuel pressure regulator swap and relocation of the vacuum source did not fully fix the problem. It was better but not altogether fixed.

This is what they found.

https://www.cobbtuning.com/2008-sti-fuel-pressure-regulator-kit-update-technical-overview/

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43568262&postcount=1

After installing the recommended parts mine was rock solid. If I remember correctly I ended up doing lines and rails which got rid of the issue completely.

Year, Make and Model: 2013 WRX STI Hatchback

Color: Satin White Pearl

Miles: 88K

Transmission: 6 Speed

Title: In Hand

Lien: Yes

Location: Independence MO

VIN: JF1GR8H64DL203902

Seller's email address: gregnauman@me.com

Asking Price: 26000----SOLD!!!!

Cell:8162137203

Long time member on here and many of you knew of my 2005 Outback XT

Well up for sale is my 2013 STI Hatch.

I’m in the Kansas City Missouri area

Instagram stiscooby2.5

I really hate to sell it but I need to move into a truck for work purposes.

I’m in X-ray Vascular and CT service.

It was Purchased in Jan 2017 with 12,500 miles from the original owner.

I’m 52 years old and been modding Subaru’s for 16 years. Mustangs and Jeeps before that.

Anyone that knows me knows I am super OCD with my cars, super clean and on top of maintenance. Basically I have personally built 2 Subaru’s in the last 16 years. A STI Swapped 2005 Outback XT that I sold with 280K miles on the body for $16k.

I’m Scooby2.5 on legacygt.com

I have a reference from the buyer on that car and the work I do. If you would like to contact the owner of my previous sale DM me

This car has 89,xxx on the body and now has a brand new OEM SB from Subaru and all OEM new supporting replacement parts.

I have multiple Blackstone oil reports on the vehicle, at least once a year monitoring the motor for Subaru’s bearing issues. Mine was one that was part of the class action lawsuit.

While driving 40mph down a side street leaving the subaru dealer it spun a rod bearing and was immediatly shut off. I had it Towed to the dealer.

This occurred with 2500-3K mile oil changes with Motul 8100X-cess it’s entire life.

I have every single receipt for oil or otherwise on this car. And mileage logs for work.

Myself and a 25 year Subaru Mechanic friend who works at a local dealer installed a new Subaru 10103AC050 SB

Subaru covered the warranty under the Class action extended warranty.

While it was out I installed IAG TGV deletes, TS air pump delete a new clutch and many new parts listed below.

Over the last 3 years the car was driven daily about 20-25K per year

It’s 8 years old so it’s been driven about 10K per year average.

The car is immaculate, Garage Kept, GTechniq Ceramic Coated. It Had clear 3M bra on a lot of the car from previous owner which I recently removed.

I drove it for work for X-ray service and was the only person that ever really rode in the car.

The car was tuned by one of Cobbs own tuners in Calvin Dotson in Dallas TX area. He now owns his own shop. Dotson Tuning.

He has tuned all of my cars since about 2007.

He also tunes for efilogics.com

378WHP 346WTQ 93 pump

401WHP 371WTQ E78

Calvin left the torque down a bit for stock SB purposes.

Capable of 450/450 on E85

Not in a rush to sell, car will be driven a few miles here and there to keep it fresh but mostly in the garage.

Driving our old minivan for work at the moment.

Feel free to DM me or call/text my cell at (816) 213-7203

Car has clean CARFAX see pictures.

2013 STi

OEM Options

Navigation

Homelink review mirror w/compass

STi STS

SPT Boost Gauge

New Parts on Car last two months

New Front Bumper Skin OEM (Previous owner damaged tabs)

New Front STI lip OEM

New OEM Clips for entire front

New OEM HID Headlights

New OEM Fender Liners

New OEM Under Tray

New Windshield

Engine/Performance

OEM STI Short Block (10103AC050)

Cylinder Heads refreshed by Noland Head Service KC

New OEM Oil Pump

New OEM Head Bolts

New OEM Timing Belt

New OEM Timing Belt Pulleys

New OEM Water Pump

New OEM Oil Cooler

New OEM AVCS Valves (x4)

New OEM plugs

New OEM fluids Radiator and P/S fluid

New Group N motor and Transmission mounts (tranny mount not installed but have it)

New Optima Redtop Battery

Killer B Oil Pick Up and Windage Tray

12 Months old Complete Cobb Stage 3+ FF kit with 1300X2 injectors and Perrin Inlet, Perrin heat shield and Turbo blanket

Cobb Kit Includes:

COBB Accessport,

SF Intake System,

SF Airbox,

SS 3" Downpipe,

Cat-Back Exhaust,

Perrin SS Turbo Heatshield,

Flex Fuel Ethanol Sensor Kit,

Fuel Pressure Sensor Kit,

AEM 320 High Flow Fuel Pump,

ID Top Feed 1300x2 Fuel Injectors,

Cobb Fuel Rails,

Fuel Rail Line Kit,

Fuel Rail Line Kit to Flex Fuel,

Fuel Pressure Regulator for Fuel Rail Kit,

Subaru Throttle Body Coupler,

Perrin Silicone Turbo Inlet

COBB Vehicle Badge.

https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/stage-package/subaru-stage-3-flex-fuel-power-package-sti-hatch-2008-2014

Blouch 1.5xtr 10cm 20K miles (July 2019)

Fuel Labs 6 micron fuel filter

Grimmspeed P&P Exhaust Manifolds and Grimmspeed Crosspipe

DEI Wrap

Crawford V3 AOS

Cobb EBCS

Perrin EBCS Cover

Cobb BPV

Grimmspeed TMIC

Grimmspeed TMIC Hood scoop splitter

New Exedy 15803 stage 1 Clutch (same as STI performance catalog)

Torque Solutions Air Pump Delete

IAG TGV Deletes

New Optima Battery

Recent Motul Fluid Change (Transmission Rear Diff)

Motul 8100x-cess oil (currently on Motul break in oil)

Tuning

Calvin Dotson Dotson Tuning

https://www.facebook.com/DotsonTuning

Formerly Cobb Direct Tuner

Dallas/FT Worth TX

Tuner For EFILOGICS

https://www.efilogics.com

Brakes / Wheels / Tires

Porterfield R4S Pads Front / Rear

Perrin 20mm Hubcentric Wheel Centric bolt on spacer

Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 245/40/18 Tires (6K miles) Factory STI BBS

Suspension/Handling

2019 latest 13:1 Steering rack

2019 PS pump

Racecomp Engineering GTWorx Bilstein Impreza Club Sport Kit

https://www.iwsti.com/threads/gtworx-bilstein-impreza-cup-sport-kit-for-sti-2008-2014-my-personal-review.263575/

RCE Kit Includes:

Yellow Springs

Bilstein Struts

RCE front and rear swaybars

Kartboy front and rear end links

SPC adjustable rear control arms

Interior/Exterior

Cobb Radiator Shroud

Cobb Double Adjustable STS

Raceseng Weighted Custom Shift knob

Raceseng Reverse Lockout

2 Factory Under seat Subs 1 under each seat

Rally Armor Mud Flaps

Cupholder Hero pieces throughout car

Husky Floor liner Floor Mats and New OEM summer mats

Defi Boost gauge replaced Factory SPT Boost Gauge

JPM Coachwerks Shift Boot

JPM Coachwerks E Brake boot

JDM OEM Console Box Arm rest extension

Black STI OEM emblems

OEM Window Visors

Red Hella Horns with Mount and wiring harness

Perrin Shorty Antenna

Viper Alarm System SMART GPS tracking

Blackvue Front and rear dash cams

NOTE:

DAMD steering wheel and

JDM Push to start, found in the pictures will not be a part of the car sale.

https://img.nasioc.com/gregnauman

I typically create threads like this after the stuff gets installed, but I'm making an exception in this case because I need a place to take notes while I sort through the information that is sprinkled throughout the "6mt master swap thread" (and others) so that the next person to undertake this swap won't have to go on an easter-egg hunt to learn what they need to know.

 

There are two main recipes for 6MT swaps. They key difference between them is the rear diff ratio. Both use 3.9:1 front differentials, but the later transmissions have a 1.1:1 ratio on the rear output shaft, which requires a 3.54:1 rear diff.

 

Recipe A - 3.90 rear diff

Transmission options: 04/05 STI*, or 08/09 Spec B

Rear diff options: 04/05 STI, possibly 07-09 Legacy GT R160**

Rear axles: 07-09 Spec B (axles 28421AG03B, axle seals 806732200)

Front axles: Regular LGT***

Driveshaft: use a Spec B driveshaft, and replace the differential's input flange with the R160 flange.

(The Spec B R180 has an R160 input yoke, but is only available in 3.54:1.)

 

Recipe B - 3.54:1 rear diff

Transmission options: 06+ STI (I don't know what the upper bound is, but unclemat used an 08)

Rear diff options: 02-05 WRX R160, 07-09 Spec B R180*****

Rear axles: Regular LGT with R160, Spec B axles with R180.

Front axles: Regular LGT

Driveshaft: Spec B****

 

Note that there are two versions of the Spec B 6MT transmission and they have different final drive ratios.

 

* Some 04 STI transmissions need minor changes for LGT front axles - click here for more info.

** I have conflicting information about which Legacy GT R160s have which ratios.

*** 04 6MT will need new axle seals to use LGT front axles. (Part numbers here)

**** Per Z0rro, an 05-09 4EAT driveshaft can substitute for a Spec B driveshaft.

***** Cars101.com says the 08/09 Spec B uses a 3.9 final drive, however that apparently includes the 1.1 reduction in the transmission.

 

Small parts: (needed for either recipe)

 

Please confirm these part numbers for your particular transmission.

Most of these are just what I used for my 05 STI 6MT swap; later years may have differences.

 

Keep your 5MT neutral sensor switch, put it in the 6MT.

6MT shift linkage (Preferably Spec B; the Impreza shift linkage is shorter) (Is this still true for 08+ Impreza?)

6MT clutch fork - 30530AA050

6MT clutch release shaft - 30532AA020

6MT clutch slave cylinder - 30620AA172 - alternate:30620AA173

6MT clutch hose

6MT throw-out bearing

6MT rear transmission mount (same part for Spec B and Impreza)

Reverse lockout cable - 35060AG010

Downpipe support bracket - 44021FE030

R180 diff mount from the spec B - 41310AT040 (not strictly necessary, but click here for some info)

Clutch fork shaft plug (threaded cap that holds the fork shaft in) - 30550AA000 for 04-07, and 11021AA010 for 08+

Output Shaft Oil Seal (oil seal for the driveshaft interface) - 806735210 - $11.50

Clutch fork spring (spring that connects clutch fork to bell housing) - 30546AA060 - $5.20

Inner shift boot (foam/rubber, mostly for noise insulation, you can reuse the 5MT if you trim it)

If you get a DCCD diff, you'll need an aftermarket DCCD controller.

 

Courtesy of ShockerGT:

If you have an STI shift linkage, the shift lever will not be centered as the STI shifter rod and shifter stay are shorter than the Legacy parts. So, you'll need these:

 

Spec B Shifter Rod: 35041AG020

Spec B Shifter Stay: 35031AG020

 

Stick with 04-07 STI shift levers, as the 08+ versions are not compatible.

 

 

What you DON'T need:

 

Vehicle speed sensor - the LGT speed sensor is not on/in the transmission.

6MT rear transmission crossmember (same part for 5MT, just needs the 6MT mount (the rubber part))

 

Considerations: (which recipe is right for you?)

 

The Spec B 6MT has a 50/50 torque split, lacks DCCD and has an open front diff, but is less expensive

04/05 STI 6MT has a 35/65 torque split, open center diff, and DCCD

06+ STI 6MT has a 41/59 torque split, helical center diff, and DCCD

R180 rear diffs are stronger than R160 rear diffs.

The Spec B R180 uses an R160 input yoke. Not sure how much this affects strength.

Unclemat opines on differential technology.

And so does Homemade WRX.

 

Last but not least, the Spec B 6MT gear ratios are more evenly spaced than the USDM STI 6MT ratios, and they're a bit taller. Rallispec will install them into STI transmissions, and they call it a "high speed" gearing option. I did it mostly for the even spacing. Better mileage would be a nice side-effect if I stayed out of boost, but how likely is that?

 

 

Reference material:

 

Hammer Down's thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sti-6-speed-swap-05-gt-61199.html?t=61199

sti_lusts's thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6-speed-transmission-conversion-my-05-54771.html?t=54771

LegacyGT.com 6MT swap thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6mt-master-swap-thread-107137.html

BDII's NES 6MT swap thread: http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13187

NASIOC.com 6MT swap thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1201152

An Impreza 6MT swap: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=872902

A thread with some DccdPro info: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2032099

Info about differential types: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423584

Spec B shifter assembly: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_12/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/

 

Part sources:

 

Millenium Auto - http://www.y2kimports.com/ (Used Subaru parts, including 6MT transmissions)

Silverline Automotive - http://www.silverlineautomotive.com/ (6MT swap packages)

Thrash - http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/ (custom driveshaft, $650ish)

Spiider - http://www.dccdpro.com/ (Aftermarket DCCD controller)

SGP - http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ (Axles, seals, clutch fork, etc)

 

Instructional video:

So you swapped to an STI 6 spd transmission as well? What I'm getting at is the spec b mount is different, probably due to a difference in the lgt 6 spd transmission housing dimensions vs an STI 6 or LGT 5spd mount.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Spec B mount or StI mount should work with your 5 speed crossmember.

The part numbers for the group N the 08 up STI and the spec b should be found in this thread and all three work because they all connect to the 6 speed.

Code is correct Both spec B and STI 6 speed are the same except for DCCD. You can even add DCCD to a spec B transmission if you wanted to

I ran Legacy GT RCE Coilovers on my 2005 outback with a subtle solutions spacer to get my car at stock LGT hight.

I never had an issue with the spacers still installed on the outback.

I had purchased all the components from this this thread to just convert it all to Legacy GT but I never did it and never had an issue.

In fact when I swapped in my 6 speed I used a legacy driveshaft which was not spaced as low and I never had a problem with it either.

You can search my user name for what all I did to mine.

I no longer have the car but the new owner is still driving it daily. Never had an issue at all

I assume the diff ratio should be the same, since the '07-09 spec. B diff part number is the same as the late MY '07 - 2019 STI rear diff.

Yep

I believe the OBXT has a different carrier bearing support then a Legacy GT, other than that, depending on how long you plan the keep the car, having a shop check out the 6mt first may be worth it in the future years of driving enjoyment.

I ran the STI 6 speed in my car with a 4EAT automatic out of a legacy/GT.

The carrier bearing support is about an inch lower on the outback bearing.

Might be able to space it down if using a legacy or legacy GT shaft.

With that said I did not have any vibration issues at all using a legacy shaft.

If you want it 100% correct though I would use a 4EAT automatic shaft out of a Outback 2.5i which should have the correct carrier support bearing.

I would think that is correct. And if you want the DCCD get a hold of DCCDPRO.

Only other question would be the rear diff ratio......

Everything else should bolt right up I would think

At least, still in the Subaru family. You must be more active on NASIOC then .

probably on FB more than anything but do peruse IWSTI and NASIOC

Still check in here as well.......

No worries. Yeah, you've been here since 2005 . Freak, that's 14 years ago!!

Yep, I don't get on here much anymore as I sold my built outback XT in 2017.

Driving a 2013 STI hatch now.....

I still check in once in a while as my daughter has a 2007 Outback Sedan

3 of the 4 HVAC actuators on LHD cars are accessible from the passenger footwell without removing the dash.

The 4th one (driver's side blend actuator) is not.

Isn't there just 3 of these. I have to do it on my daughter 2007 Outback.

I think on my old 2005 Outback XT I only replaced 3.

2 in passenger footwell area and 1 on driver side

72131AG27A

72131AG24A

72131AG26A

https://orderparts.bestbuysubaru.com/v-2007-subaru-outback--r-l-l-bean-edition--3-0l-h6-gas/hvac--evaporator-and-heater-components

You can get the drivers side one out without removing the dash. I did it albeit wasn't easy

I replaced that actuator a few months ago. It died stuck in the full cold position, in winter, naturally.

 

 

You don't have to remove the heater core, but yes, the dash has to come out to access that actuator. Center vent/cubby assembly, center console & trim, stereo head unit & HVAC controls, drop the glove box & trim, drivers side lower & upper dash trim, instrument cluster, A pillar trim, all of that, then you can pull the dash.

 

 

I forget the exact order, but the shop manual is actually somewhat helpful provided you have the patience to follow the trail of info for each panel. Just think of it like a "choose your own adventure" where you have to navigate from one page to the next! It pretty well points out the screws that need to be removed, and they are not too hard to find when you're in there working on it. I had never removed the vent cubby or instrument cluster before, let alone the entire dash, and I did the actuator replacement in one day (several hours). Still need to do the mode select actuator (noisy but still works) but that one is child's play compared to the drivers' side air mix one.

 

 

Honestly, I should have at least called the stealership to get a quote on this job. It would have been worth a few hundred to have somebody else #@&% with it, but I was feeling masochistic and had no other plans for my New Year's Day this year.

It would also be my strong opinion that you should install a brand new part, rather than try to regrease or re-bend the contacts or do some other well-intentioned but cheap-ass solution to reuse the existing one, given the PITA of the surgery.

 

 

 

 

 

Couple of pics looking down through the windshield. Actuator is the part with the green plug going into it.

 

 

Yea i didn't remember that but it must be for the side or corner clips not sure.

Been a long time ago.

Its pretty easy you will see what you need once you get the sedan beam the beam mounts and the skin. Also get some of the pop it clips you use on your original bumper.

Good Luck!

I don't know how many times I read through this post in the past couple years, telling myself I wouldn't do it, even when I didn't have a BP yet.

 

Yet here I am, stupidly awaiting my JDM Outback bumper to arrive. Going to hit the junkyards here soon and strip off a sedan rear bumper beam and brackets. Then I gotta redo my exhaust to get rid of these goofy-ass turndowns.

 

Think you could explain what you had to move over from your stock skin to the new one using a rivet gun? Was that just for a brand new skin that comes bare and a used skin that came off of a car would already have everything necessary on it?

Rivet gun????

Hey man, I know it's been 12 years since your install, but I was wondering if you could get that detailed list of what all you used from the bumper kit. Thanks

All the info is in the OP

So many 6 speed swaps now I’m happy to be one coming from a auto trans and now I have a perfectly 6speed swapped subi that I did in my garage! Wiring harness, steering column, pedal assembly etc I literally spent over 10k to get my car on the ground but that includes a bunch of up grades.. all worth it. Recently my timing belt jumped some teeth gunna get on that as soon as I find out what timing belt kit to go with

STOCK ONLY.....THE GATES PULLEYS ETC ARE MADE IN CHINA AND PEOPLE HAVING ISSUES. You tube video about it.

Link to guy who sells OEM kits

https://sixstarbernie.com/c-1171146-timing-belts-more-oem-timing-belt-kits.html

What I found with my buddies spec b was the fuel pump wiring to and from the control module and the pump etc was the same size as an STI. So with that info I would just drop in the AEM 320/340 pump and be done with it.

I was the first to discover the small wiring in the legacies but when I went to help Zero1 with his install we found the wiring the same as an STI.

I now have a 2013 STI and I just did a drop in AEM 320/340 pump. Got it off Amazon for $100-115.

Really no need to use the DW kit with a spec b or STI because the wiring is enough to handle without a voltage drop