rebourne

We need fitment confirmation, then hit these guys up for a group buy on the brackets.

I was shopping around for some legacy pads/rotors... and saw this thread. I like what i am seeing!

Added a (untuned) virtual dyno comparison with the new parts to the first page. Second one down on post 6. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5195687&postcount=6

Did a partial WOT log today, just from 2500-5500. First time I floored it. Felt good, no knock or anything scary on the AP. Looked at the logs, and I'm hitting 83% IDC at the top of the run, lol. And 17.5 psi @ 3500. Even if leaning it out for power, there isn't much injector left. Wideband options are being discussed, which will allow tuning with the 740s. Wish I'd picked up 850s though... hrmm...

Finally drove the car on the freeway today. So far it'd just been around the block. Close enough I could walk home. First obsevation, which backs up the around the block drives: Apparently my STI Up-pipe had some heat shield rattles and that was the source of much of the angry raspyness of my exhaust sound. Because it's gone now. Second, the throttle response is quick! Like I installed an ultra light fly wheel quick! Just whips up when I touch the gas. This is pre-boost throttle positions. The header sounds so good! Smooth, glorious and still angry. And the whole exhaust still falls to a near hush between 2700-3700ish. Easy to listening to the stereo at 75mph. I have to listen hard for the whooshy whooshy of the GS Intake, as it seems to want to make noise at the same time as the mufflers... funny how that works. It's strong! I'm not detecting any lag compared to the old turbo and stock exhaust manifold. I'm running the Cobb OTS Stage2 (ACN) + SF tune, and it's all right. Much more stumbly that it was a couple weeks ago before I swapped everything. Sometimes idle wants to drop too low and the ecu autoblips it up to 1500+ rpms. Needs a tune, but it's okay right now. Trying to stay out of it, but the numbers I'm tracking all look good. I'm not skilled at that part of the monitoring, yet, though. Hit 16.75 psi, which is a bit over target for that OTS tune. More later, and eventually some sound clips.

Sometimes I go there to rock back n forth and sing to myself. Not very loud though, just kind of a mumble.

Panasonic GX7, with 20mm F/1.7. Micro 4/3rds, so the lens is a 40mm Full Frame equivalent. I have that lens on the GX7 90% of the time.

Fine now on PC and phone... Guess it was a blip on my side. "Screen capture or it didn't happen!" as the saying goes.

Grimmspeed intake installed.

sub'd. images are broken... nvm.

Double post fixed! Zip tie method: m sprank "How to: Installing a BNR turbo" http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installing-bnr-turbo-139943.html "Pic 16= My trick to install the new turbo with no tools on the inlet. Put your gasket on the uppipe, remove the hex bolt holding the inlet tube in place, then use string or zip ties (like I did) wrapping around the inlet and the manifold. The inlet faces a bit down. The turbo needs to go over the studs and onto the oil return line while going into the inlet all at the same time. If you release the inlet it has some play. Use the ties to hold the inlet up so that the "mouth" is slightly tilted up. You are lifting it as far as possible." Even though I wasn't installing a BNR, this was a great guide, and the zip tie method was brilliant. I had to try it a few times, wasting a few zip ties as my inlet is getting really soft and gummy worm like. It kept slipping off, or collapsing the intake shape. First time, I used this variation of his method: When I re-installed the turbo, I moved the zip tie to be behind the raised edge that the worm clamp is against and that was more stable. Didn't get a picture of that, but I'd recommend that. No more slippage or collapsing of the shape of the tube.

Pressure tested the turbo hardlines, and was convinced they weren't the problem. Re-installed everything with a wee bit of hope the problem would just go away, but that thought drove me crazy. I was out of ideas and just needed to see where it was leaking. So I re-installed the turbo, and all the supporting pieces. At first it didn't leak, then after a few minutes it did, but this time the upper coolant line was clearly leaking. Good experience pulling and re-installing the turbo again, however. Replaced the oem 'corbin' style hose clamp with a worm gear clamp and the leak stopped. Cut the stock turbo heat shield to clear the VF52 waste gate arm, with a crappy Ikea hacksaw. Forgot about the need to do that. Installed the dipped in gold, blinged out, pimp my ride AVO TMIC I picked up off the forums. There was some concern that the AVO and the Invidia 1.5 scroll wouldn't play nice. Well it worked, but I'd say Just Barely. There was some pushing, and pulling to get the hose on, and the bolt holes to line up, and then a stretch to get the BOV to line up. So far so good though. And taking inspiration from the "what's in your bag" EDC posts, here is every tool I used for this leg of the build. To re-iterate: Dropped plastic under cover Dropped DP Removed oem exhaust "headers" Removed up-pipe removed VF40 removed oem TMIC removed and re-installed the wideband bolt on the Cobb DP (the 10mm T allen tool) Installed: Invidia up-pipe/ELH combined one piece header lightly used VF52 used AVO TMIC re-installed the DP cut and reinstalled the turbo heat shield chased some threads with a 8mm x 1.25 chaser Used the M.Sprank zip tie technique to hold the turbo inlet pipe for install Before I start logging for the Cryo tune, I still have the GS intake and the DW 65c fuel pump on the install list.

Well, the above STI rack, for sure.

Completed the Roadkill inspired check list: Cranked it eight times with the fuel pump fuse out, replaced the fuse, took a mental break to double check everything in my head, then fired it up. Vroom! Smooth and sounds good. uturned it out and back into the garage so the exhaust would go outside, then slide my drip pan covered in white paper towels under it. And coolant. Green coolant. Coming from the turbo area. Ah, F*CK. Uturned it back into it's work spot, and back up on jack stands. Could not find the source of the leak. Seemed to be up near the two coolant hard line bolts. It was dripping down the oil drain line. Not coming from the top coolant line, and nothing on the passenger side of the turbo. Ugh. Sigh. Off comes the DP... Pulled the turbo off in under 30 minutes. DP wasn't even hot yet, and all the bolts were easy to remove. didn't bother clamping the coolant lines since I was already bleeding alien juice all over the drip pan. I'll be focusing on this side when I look at it tomorrow: Cracked hard line from shipping? I don't see anything with a quick look. Ran out of time before my hard stop to get the kids from pre-school. Frustrated to say the least. Oh, but the ELH really does sound different! Didn't rev it much, so really can't comment yet.

PLX, check. $200 isn't a deal breaker. Seems like good insurance. Any other recommendations?

As you can see i haven't read even a little bit about widebands, lol. My Cobb dp has the whole right behind the turbo. While I've got the dp out, I'll pb blaster it, knock it out and put it back with a little anti seize. Just to make adding one easier, should i go there.

Cryo's post about e tuning with upgraded injectors says a wideband is required. Does that just replace the front O2 sensor, and then the AccessPort will log it?

Good points... thanks for the numbers. I know fahr_side has a negative feelings about the DW side feeds. I haven't seeked any other opinions on them. I think I have some hesitation there. This is my first time working with Dave, well other than my wishy washy emails to him about when we are going to start and what parts I've recently acquired... This is my first deep dive into a turbo swap, so I'd like to get up and stable with no issues on the minimal parts, to eliminate having too many things to troubleshoot. If he is cool about getting a base tune on, then having me add in the 740s, I think I'd give it a try.

something to definitely keep an eye on! My vf40 has so little play, when i checked it, and confirmed by my engine rebuilder, that I have doubts that it's the original turbo. I should have it out of the car today.

Thanks! The backup car is tired... needs so much work, from clutch, to rebuild (burns a quart every 500), to a cracked windshield, barely smogs, throws a smog related CELs and other things like the throttle cable that sticks wide open sometimes. But my wife's the first owner of it, and it keeps smogging, so we keep it. The kids car seats fit in the back and all of us are short enough that it works out in a pinch (ha! literally!). And I've brought a 6 foot christmas tree home on top of it, bc you couldn't really f*ck up the paint any worse. It does have great coil overs and camber arms on it. Cobb Stage 2 OTS = 16psi target. I typically see 15.5-16. The Invidia 1.5 scroll fitment issues worry me! Will find out in a day or two! Waiting on gaskets to arrive at my door. I have a set of used (side feed) DW 740s. I'd like to see how the tuning goes with the stock injectors. The 740s aren't really big enough for fully realizing the potential of E85, so if I bother with injectors, I'd want bigger. For a future E85 tune. But I don't really want to convert to a whole top feed solution and have another complex thing to remove from the car come smog time. More research and soul searching for the injectors/E85 topic. I wonder if my stock VF40 is the original turbo. no reason to suspect it isn't other than having nearly 130k miles on it.

^^^ It's finally time to install that bad boy! The plan is: VF52 Invidia ELH GrimmSpeed intake AVO TMIC DW65c I'll try the 3" -> 2.25" un-resonated mid pipe, but it might be too loud for me. And we'll see what Cryo says about installing the EBCS. Then get the tuning process started! Got a late start, but today's progress: OEM exhaust header w/ heat shields, oem intercooler, and turbo heat shield. Stock VF40 nearly ready to be swapped out. There was zero oil residue in the turbo and IC. The extra long reach 2-ton Harbor Freight jack was everything I hoped it would be. Can get to the center jack point, and still lift higher than my highest jack stands. Way back in the garage there's a big fluorescent fixture right above the engine. Little too tight to do a suspension swap in that spot, but just fine for this job. The backup car is cleaner than the Outback. Better add a wash to my to do list...:

Dustinsonger is running 295s http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-coming-dustinsongers-insert-interesting-tarmac-motorsport-here-wagon-243354.html

As discussed in another thread... Magnus needs to shoot raw and post process!

Dustin Hoffman in Tootsie?

Document your fix, please.