rebourne

Holy Fuuuuh!

disclaimer added.

I love that! The loaned Autozone MacStrut compressor I used was not a great fit with the spring on the strut, and the zip tie idea is great. Totally would have simplified the install. And zipties! *DISCLAIMER* Also sounds like a total Darwin Awards way of dying!

Comparison of the E85 tune (not the final revision) vs final 91 ACN. Both with 850cc injectors, Invidia ELH, Grimmspeed intake, and same exhaust: Red run was on 25.94" tires and blue is on 26.74" and adjusted for the height (and thus gearing) difference in VD. That's just going off of the numbers printed on the sidewall, not actual measurements, take em with a grain of salt. The E85 peak torque at the same point in the graph that peak torque is reached on the 91 graphs = 388 ft-lbs. yeilding: 341hp 388ft-lbs @ 23psi on E85 vs 276hp 327ft-lbs @ 20psi on 91 ACN +65hp and +62 ft-lbs Woot Woot!

Some virtual dyno plots. First up: DP and Muffs Red is on very worn 225/40/18s Blue is on 75% tread 225/45/18s No other differences. Completely different days, but both around 65-68 degrees. ~half tank gas AC off Windows up Similar poundage of stuff in the car Cobb OTS Stage 2 ACN 91 Octane map Cobb catted DP Pro Tuning Lab (aka Ebay) muffs on stock mid and Y OEM Sti up pipe AQ Motorsports rebuild with JE FSR stock compression pistons Shell ACN 91 octane Stock everything else: VF40, intake, tmic, injectors, fp etc etc http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=223202&stc=1&d=1453277051 Not sure I am using the right defaults for VD. SAE checked, smoothing is 4 as that looked more "real" to me than higher or lower. Everything else is default, including "DynoJet" for Dyno Correction Factor. The road I am using is new and decently smooth, with virtually no traffic because it's a dead end. But it's got a bump or two, a slight bend, and is way too short for 4th gear runs. I'm still on the lookout for something better. Next up: V52, ELH, TMIC, Intake Red is the above hardware with the 225/45s Blue is with the below upgrades, and un-tuned Both days 68-73 ~ half tank gas AC off Windows up Similar poundage of stuff in the car Cobb OTS Stage 2+SF ACN 91 Octane map Cobb catted DP Pro Tuning Lab (aka Ebay) muffs on stock mid and Y Invidia 1.5 scroll ELH VF52 (OEM, no porting, etc) AVO TMIC GrimmSpeed intake AQ Motorsports rebuild with JE FSR stock compression pistons Shell ACN 91 octane Stock everything else: injectors, fp etc http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=228288&stc=1&d=1460748049 Not a great comparison because I rolled into it late, and let off early. The boost curve is interesting though. I'm clearly making more boost than on the previous setup. Target boost in the OTS tune is 16.0 +/- 0.8, and I'm hitting over 17 regularly. interesting.

[ Reserved for 1000 mile break in milestone! ] Update: I drove slow. Little to no boost. Burned very little oil. It was warm, never heard any slapping. Changed the oil.

After a couple weeks on the LGT springs and Koni's, I decided that Orca rides too nice. Seriously, it was nicer than my Infinity G37 sedan. Overall handling still needs improvement, so let's start with going lower. But not too low... I'd already been researching springs, and I decided I couldn't go wrong trying Tein H-Techs. If I didn't like them, they'd be easy to re-sell for a small "rental" fee. Front Teins: Music: Tower of Power channel on Pandora Tools: All hand ratchets and wrenches. Install time: about 6 hours. Before I started on the struts, I did my first oil change on the obxt, so it was a long day with the multiple learning curves. Front LGT stock spring vs H-Tech: Stock OBXT assembled front strut / spring vs Koni / H-Tech: Rear Teins: Music: High Contrast channel on Pandora Tools: Bought an 8amp / 350 ft-lb Craftsman electric impact gun before I started. It would have shaved an hour or two off the front install. Knocked the rear lower shock bolt off like it was buttah. Install time: about 2 hours, with another hour for adjusting the front camber and garage clean up. Impact gun on a grocery store paper bag for size reference: While it gets the hard nuts off, it's literally a wrist breaker. edit: I returned the impact gun when it couldn't get one of the lower shock bolts off. And I hand torqued that bolt just a week earlier. Rear LGT stock spring vs H-Tech: I used a dremel to create a flap over the rear shock tops. I just eye-balled it, and used whatever cutting bit I had. I can easily torque the center shock nut, the top hat bolts, and adjust the Koni firmness with the removable knob. And as a bonus the flaps hold up that piece of trunk liner! I got stuck trying to get the top hat off the first strut, and I found plenty of Koni install walkthroughs and tips, but no removal / uninstall tips. After struggling mightily, I googled far and wide, well outside of Subaru land, and found a simple, fairly commonly recommended tip. (Sorry, don't remember the sources.) Tip #1: Koni spring removal / uninstall Front struts and Rear shocks: Loosen the top (17 or 19mm) bolt on the Koni's before loosening a single bolt on the suspension. Additionally for the front struts, don't worry about the 8mm allen bolt at the bottom of the strut body. If the inserts were installed correctly there is Loctite on the 8mm bolt, and it does not come into play in spring removal. Mine didn't budge. A few more tips: Tip #2: Front strut spring removal Use a spring compressor, but if you did tip #1, you won't have to compress so much that the top hat spins free. Just pull it down a few inches and even with a hand ratchet there should be just a tiny pop when the nut comes off. Wear a mechanic's glove, please. Controversial Tip #3: If you have an air or electric impact gun, you don't need to compress rear LGT springs to get the top hat off. Lay the assembly on the floor and make sure the bottom of the strut has a long travel path before it might hit anything (or set up a bowling alley of aluminum cans). Put your big steal toe'd booted foot against the top hat, and wear a thick mechanic glove. It's going to shoot away from you, and you'll feel a bit of a pop against your foot. Now spin that bolt off with power! Don't stop until the top hat sproings off and you shouldn't hurt the threads. The bark of the rear LGT spring popping off the Koni was far worse than the bite. Disclaimer: Make sure you have good health insurance, 6 months of mortgage/rent/expenses in the bank and if you get hurt you're a dumb ass for following "controversial" advice on the internet. Tip #4: Temporary front camber adjustment before you get a real alignment Reading the manual, and guides gets all confusing. Does "more camber" mean negative or positive? Turn the bolt in on the left? Opposite for the right? Don't worry about the words. Use the force, Luke. To get more negative camber (I need more negative because I'm rubbing the outer fender), jack it up, remove the wheels, loosen the two lock nuts on bottom of the strut (make sure the top of the camber adjusting bolt doesn't move). Then put your hand on the top of brake rotor, and as you move the camber bolt you'll feel if you are tipping the top in for more negative camber, or out. It's intuitive once you try it. Get a real alignment asap if you value your tires. Here it is after bouncing over some speed bumps: Front: Rear: Stats: Koni front inserts LGT front bumpstops p/n 20321AA201 Koni rear shocks LGT rear upper control arms LGT bump stop "helpers" p/n 20501AE00A Ride height comparison: LGT springs / Tein H-techs LF: 27.25 / 26.25 RF: 27.5 / 26.5 LR: 27.375 / 26.375 RR: 27.75 / 26.5 Rubbing in front? yes. I dialed in what I thought was a good amount of negative camber on the front bolt, but it rubs quite a bit doing circles in a cul-de-sac. Eventually I'll need a fender roll to fit wider, lower offset wheels and tires. In the meantime, I think there's a little bit more negative camber left in the stock bolt. Rubbing in rear? no. No rubbing in the rear with the Whiteline KCA399 camber bushings in the upper control arms. Search words: Tein H.Tech, or Tein H-Tech, or Tein High Tech

AQ Engine Rebuild thoughts #1 Up to the first oil change on the rebuild @ 200 miles: (technically the second, because AQ did the first zero mile oil change after priming and first start up. MY first.) First thought: My engine builder, AQ Motorsports, told me to stay out of boost and vary the RPMs during the break in process, which is for 1000 miles, with a dino oil change at 200 miles and 1000 miles. IE: a gentle break in. I did my normal to and from work commute, 12 miles each way. My commute on the Los Angeles 405 has so many traffic pockets that it varies the RPMs without even really trying. But I accelerated really slowly, patiently, to try to stay out of boost. Since I didn't have a boost gauge, I was just guessing. I did this for a few days until I installed my Cobb AP V3, loaded with the stock-like tune and used it to monitor boost. Much to my surprise, I was driving like a total grandma! The EJ255 is capable of far more acceleration without getting into positive boost pressure than I ever thought was possible. The 2.5L is strong off boost, stronger than many normally aspirated cars I've driven. Even in 4th and 5th gears I could get reasonable acceleration without making positive boost. Of course it has become a game. I watched the AP and learned how much I can apply, without going over 0.00. Second thought: Even with the Group-N engine mounts, the motor is sooo smooth. And quiet. I drove just listening to the car for the first week, windows up, no stereo. When traffic was wide open, I'd alternate between 70 in 5th gear and 65 in 4th gear, to vary the rpms. But there was almost no audible or NVH difference between the two! So good... Eventually it will need more loud!!! but not until after break in is done and done. When I finally turned on the stereo, I accidentally drove in 4th at 65-70 mph without noticing I wasn't in 5th many times. That quiet and smooth. I hear no piston slap. If I didn't have build sheet, and the discussion with my builder, I'd think this engine had stock pistons and not forged JEs. I hear nothing. It's mid 60s-80s here in LA, so ask me again in February or March. Or on a cold morning at the ski resorts. /end 200 mile thoughts.

And I shouted: "Down girl!" at her. Let's see if I can get her to obey. LGT Springs already installed on Koni's 3/8" 1/4" Saggy butt spacers (going to try without them first) AVO rear sway bar end links Perrin Front and Rear sway bar end links. LGT rear upper arms, w/ Whiteline camber adjusters LGT helpers (aka bumpstops) Going to install the AVO rear end links first, versus the Perrin. Done: No saggy butt spacers. LF: 27.25 RF: 27.5 LR:27.375 RR:27.75 I put a level on the passenger door trim before and after and the match was almost perfect. Just a bit of rake. Not sure why the left side is lower than the right. This is not aligned, but with about 20 miles on it. The springs/shock assemblies were off another OBXT, so they should be settled. With these wheels it looks well balanced. But with 18s, I'll want to come down .75-1".

Orca 2006 triple black 5mt obxt bought at 119k miles 05/2015, now 150k @ 10/2018 The day I got it. August 7, 2017 Engine: (rebuilt at 120k miles, always... always get a leak down test before buying) Complete rebuild by AQ Motorsports. JE forged FSR pistons, stock compression Used OEM cams (stocks were trashed from low oil. Technically using STI cams, but no difference from LGT/OBXT) New OEM crank (stock was trashed from low oil) New STI oil pump Killer B oil pickup Group N engine mounts Gates timing belt, pump, pulleys, tensioner Valve job, head machining, honing, gaskets, bearings and all that from the bottom to top. Primitive Skid Plate TYC 13091 oem-style radiator Turbo and Breathing GrimmSpeed intake "big16G" Stage 2 VF52 rebuild by Socal Porting AVO TMIC Invidia 1.5 scroll equal length header (via BarManBean) Cobb catted down pipe Pro Tuning Labs mufflers (not using the 3" mid and Y, yet) Fuel and Tuning: ID 1050X top feeds ID top feed to side feed rails and lines STI FPR DW 65c fuel pump SteamSpeed EBCS TA 91 ACN E-tune 850cc injectors Suspension: Koni's, w/ Tein H-Tech (tried LGT springs, not low enough) AVO adjustable rsb end links LGT rear upper control arms, with Whiteline KCA399 camber correction outer bushings LGT "helper" rear bump stops 3/4" saggy spacers in rear Wheels: Enkei Imola 18x8 +40 245/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ Brakes: Project Mu NS400 pads Drivetrain: ACT HDSS ACT 13lb flywheel Kartboy short shift Interior: Kids car seats (2) removed rear headrests stock HU, Jazzy mod with flaky cd player. If I switch to the radio, it won't go back to CD unless I beat on it with my fist, and repeatedly pull the radio fuse. I've used a rubber mallet. It worked. Exterior: Morimoto HIDs + halos in blacked out headlight retrofits Fender roll F/R (still needs moar) Dings History: May 2015 I took home this triple black 2006 OBXT 5MT with 119k miles. She drove real nice, besides needing more low and new shocks. The car fax showed it was serviced pretty regularly at an independent and a San Diego Subie dealer. However around the 90k-110k mark I don't see any evidence of timing belt. I had the PPI done at the same Subie dealer, and they went over the service records with me. Clean bill of health. Few days after bringing it home, oil was low. Let's keep an eye on it. Little bit of a stumble 2-3k. Plugs? Dirty Injectors? let's hope it's not.. piston or valves... Long story short... Few weeks later, I got the compression test that I knew I should have done before buying it. Cyl #2 = 50% During the rebuild, the problems kept surfacing: Cyl #2 50% down was due to a cracked ring landing All four cams and journals in the heads were scored from oil starvation. Crank trashed due to oil starvation to the journals One head had a sketchy head gasket, way under oem-spec, and evidence of water leakage. pics of the cracked pistons and scored cams here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5216668&postcount=28 /end History Waiting to be installed: Perrin front sway bar end links Perrin steering dampener lockdown Pro Tuning Labs Exhaust Mid / Y Legacy front calipers Cobb Flex Fuel Kit WTB list Moore Blast Plates F/R sway bars + AVO rear bracket Coil overs '15 STI steering rack DAMD flat bottom wheel JDM Double DIN dash + HU Subwoofer [note: I'm migrated my "build" thread from the Outback pictures forum, to the Model Specific Forums > Third Generation Subaru Outback (2004 – 2009) forum. I'll whore out the pics in the Media Galleries > Outback Photos > rebourne's '06 OBXT thread (and other fav threads), but keep the technical details in this thread. Work in progress.]

I knew there was some reason I was waiting to get my all in on key reprogrammed... heck yes! thanks!