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Ah I can see the price difference for sure. OEM: $115.95 (x1) - 22433AA612 Cosmo $244.50 (x6)

Does anybody have any experience with these? https://www.cosmoracing.com/high-power-ignition-coils/subaru-high-power-ignition-coils/subaru-legacy-2010-2011-3-6l-3-6r-set-6pcs-ignition-coils-subaru I don't think they have any advantages over OEM.

Yay! I finally got a chance to install the part today. Here's how it went - pretty simple. I thought I would have problems with the window trying to fall down off the track, but it held fine. I was very careful with these clips and I used a plastic tool. I took the door card off. Pealed the sound deadening plastic off. The black glue is very sticky and I had no problem reapplying the plastic at the end. Then, I removed the three screws holding the rusted metal track. (one Philips on top under the door weatherstrip, and two 10mm inside the door) Pulled the rubber window seal out of the rusted metal track and shimmied the track out sideways through the top of the door. (Be careful not to scratch your chrome trim on top) Reinstalled the new metal track and fit the window seal back into the metal track. And bam it looked just as new again. Here is how the old rusted metal track looked like.

Well, at least this problem isn't unique to me. I have seen radiator supports rust or quarter panels but never a trim piece. Hopefully, it didn't affect the metal underneath the weatherstrip. It seems to be a reasonable replacement but have to tear the entire door apart. I did see the screws under the weatherstrip like SchwarzeEwigkt mentioned. I'm just a little worried about getting the glass back into place with no leaks. True it may definitely be cheaper to find the piece at the junkyard but I have yet to come across a 5th gen at my local salvage yards.

After taking a look at the Subaru OEM parts website, it appears that the piece is called the Window Channel (62240AJ02A). Little pricey for what it is at $91. I will take it apart and see if it is salvageable and can be repainted.

I was cleaning my windows after a wash and noticed that there is rust near the quarter rear window. Not sure how I am going to fix this. The rust appears to go even lower inside the rubber seal. Is it possible to remove that piece?

Thank you very much.

Congrats, that's a pretty good deal. I personally really enjoy the sound of them. Not too loud and not too quiet.

That is exactly how I was going to do it but maybe with an Aurdino. I looked into it a lot but I couldn't find a strong and small enough motor for the task. Maybe if you attach some sort of gearbox to the motor, that may work. I agree, the Koni's actually requires a bit of torque to get the dampening adjustments to turn. I already mocked up a bracket that goes on top of the strut. I put that project on the back burner for now though.

I don't know the brand or model of the steel wheels but I got them from a guy off Craigslist. He had them on a 2015 WRX. If it helps in any way, they are dual bolt pattern wheels.

The WRX axle-back actually bolt right up to the stock mid-pipe. The exhaust is a little strained and it is not ideally loose on rubber hangers. In the future, I plan to bend or redo the exhaust hangers on WRX axle-back to eliminate the strain and fit them nicely. Yes, I did widen the bumper openings a bit. I just used a Dremel and sanded the edges smooth. Then I used the 3M Black Vinyl Wrap to try to mask the poorly cut holes a bit. It's by far not perfect but looks okay. Some pictures below:

Here are some exhaust clips with timestamps in the video descriptions: N1 Invidia Catback - lots of drone (you can even see the camera vibrate) but sounds very very good along with some burbles Nameless 5" Mufflers - more muted but they still drone a lot 2015 WRX OEM Axleback - sounds close to stock but with a little bit of grunt and tone (no drone at all) working on the video

Save 2

May 9th, 2015. She is sitting on the lot at Glassman Subaru. I was initially looking at older WRXs and Outback Wagons but when I saw this reasonably priced H6, I ran to look at it. It was sitting more toward the back of the lot and seemed like it wasn't driven for weeks. I guess there was no interest in this particular model. I got the keys from the salesman and noticed it had remote start (BONUS!). The key fobs turned out to have dead batteries, she needed a jump, and the rotors had a ton of rust on them. I first checked the oil, looked under the car for any obvious leaks, and fired her up. I feel in love with the car during the test drive, the engine revved silky smooth and the power was insane for me at the time. I immediately disregarded any of the other cars I looked at and had my heart set on this one. I haggled down the price a little bit more (since it seemed like the car was not getting any attention at all), and brought her home the next day. I remember it was raining on that day and when I got inside the car, I noticed a shining light under the side skirt. I looked under and to my surprise, I saw puddle lights. I cannot describe how happy and thankful I was driving out of the dealership. Since I was still in high school during the time of purchase I did not go crazy with modifications at the time. I did the usual brake service, new pads and rotors. I changed all the fluids except the brake fluid.

I was a little hesitant about posting my 5th-gen among the other amazing builds but I finally got the courage to do so. I had this car since 2015 and I absolutely love it. It's a great daily driver, fast, and reliable. It's probably not as rewarding to drive as a WRX, but I must say it is pretty close in my book. Well, here it is, my: 2010 Subaru Legacy 3.6R Limited in beautiful Steel Silver Metallic Engine Modifications: - Afe Takeda Stage-2 Cold Air Intake System - XRT Engine Tune, 5EAT Tune, and Torque Management Patch (Probably one of the best things I have done to this car and it really brought the car to life. Thank you Ed from XRT) Exhaust - 2015 WRX Quad Tip Axle-back (daily & quiet with a bit of grunt) - INVIDIA N1 Catback (loud) Braking - Brembo STi front calipers powder-coated yellow - DBA 4000 Series Front Slotted Rotors - Wagner OEx Ceramic Pads - OEM Rear Rotors - Custco Master Cylinder Brace - Goodridge Stainless Steel Lines Suspension - Koni Front and Rear Inserts - Racecomp Engineering Black Springs - OEM 26mm Front Sway Bar - CKE 26mm Front Sway Bar Bushings - Kartboy 12mm Front Endlinks - Mevotech Control Arms - Mevotech High-Performance Ball Joints Exterior - V-Limited Front Splitter - Grillcraft Grill with Custom Mounted Emblem - Black Plasti-dipped Chrome Grille Trim - Hella Sharp Tone Horns - Rally Armour UR Mudflaps - 3M Wrap Around Exhaust Outlet - Rear Diffuser Lighting - Anzo Black U-Bar Headlights - GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 - Morimoto XB LED Fog Lights with yellow Lamin-X - OLM LED License Plate Lights - OEM Puddle Lights Interior - Garmin Dash Cam 45 - LED Interior Lighting - Custom Leather Stitched Steering Wheel - SI-Drive Controller (plan to change suspension dampening in the future with this switch) Wheels and Tires - Konig Inception 17" Wheels (summer) - 225/50R17 Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus - Steelies 17" Wheels Painted Gold (winter) - 235/45/R17 Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 I have so much more planned for this car from brakes to exterior mods to new proper summer tires. I am also planning on learning track driving later this year. I am going to post more photos and history of this car in the posts below, so stay tuned.

So I recently have been having a rough/no start issue with my 3.6R that I posted on the forum. Several fellow members mentioned that the coolant temperature may be the issue. I decided to purchase a new one from Subaru OEM parts, but they have two different part numbers listed for it? Not sure if one is like an older version and the other a newer version. I know Volkswagen did that with some of their coolant temperature sensors (the old one being black and the new one being green). I’ve included some screenshots for reference. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, sadly it's not an easy task if it is even possible.

Oh thank you for this. I just thought it wasn't done before.

I know the 2010-2011 Legacy GT 6MT has a cable driven shifter assembly. Thus said, to make a 6MT work in a 5th-gen probably requires some fabrication of the shifter assembly. (or Subaru would have just used a normal shifter) But I am more worried about this. I heard that the reason they made a cable shifter assembly, is to keep the 6MT in the same footprint as the 5MT. Therefore, this leads me to believe that there may not be enough room to fit an actual STi 6MT. Not sure if this is accurate but I read this somewhere back then.

True, I would definitely go with an STi variant of the 6MT. I know there are different drive ratios as well. Also, not sure if the axles are different, since STi's usually use the 5x114.3 hub and all that maybe different. Yeah, the CANBUS is what I am mostly worried about. I may be wrong but in older Subarus', the inhibitor switch was the only thing needed to do in a swap, now it is much more complicated. I don't think it would be too hard to provide various sensors like the front axle speed and rear axle speed, but I am not sure about the kick-down stuff and engine torque management. Getting the DCCD working on a 6MT is another challenge. I just have been thinking a lot about this lately. I really like the 3.6 but I wish it was offered with a manual. It would change everything about the car. I know some say it is just easier to buy a WRX or something but I don't want to get rid of this car.

hmm interesting.... Maybe it adjusts something with temperature. I will make sure to check it out.

So I was recently thinking if it is even possible to 6MT swap a 5EAT in a 2010 3.6R. I know that it is possible to bolt a 6MT to an EZ36D because MightyCarMods did it, but how would the TCM react and the various computers. Not sure how it would effect the stability control. Would swapping a TCM along with other miscellaneous parts from a Legacy GT work? Also, I wonder if the longer EZ36D may push back the transmission too far where the front axles don't work and there could be a driveshaft issue. Anyways, I am just brainstorming a crazy idea. Just wanted the forums' opinion on doing such a thing. (if it is even worth it) Thanks

I checked for vacuum leaks and seen none. I believe the fuel filter may be part of the issue. I am actually at 193k miles. Fuel filter has been replaced at 120k. Using top tier fuel and fuel cleaner sort of remedied the problem and happens less.

I actually ended up using zip ties as a replacement for the clip. They actually are holding up extremely well.

Alright I will try to run some good gas. I usually run a tank of premium ever month because I think they add more cleaning additives to higher octane. I also used fuel injector cleaner during the summer. Little worried why it still happens. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk